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Newbie needs help on a 925 No Start.

KenaAuto

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Casa Grande, Az.
Hello everyone. I have a newly acquired '83 925. When I first got it a few months ago, it had problems shutting off. I suspected it was sitting for quite a while. I added cleaner, filled with fresh fuel (didn't replace but it took 60 gals), and replaced fuel filter. Started driving it and that problem went away. I have never ran a truck like this and was surprised on the lack of power but thought it normal from what I've been reading.....but maybe not so normal after all....maybe. This truck starts on the second revolution EVERY time (couple times a week for 3 months). My problem arose after sitting 1 week, it started, ran for 5-10 seconds, and died slowly. First thing I think of is an air pocket (I'm an automotive shop owner so that either helps or hinders), so I pressurize the tank after cracking the main line at the pump. My primer was fubar so I rebuilt that, checked for water at filter, pulled filter, drained, refilled with atf, ran a full can of ether thru and nothing. That's when I started reading 'no start' threads on the forum....5 days ago. So, I took the shutoff valve and solenoid off and cleaned (resealed valve and, drilled out to 1/4", because it leaked sometimes), cracked return lines to check for fuel (it had some). Today I rigged a pressure gauge and am getting 30-32 cranking (throttle closed or open=no difference) and running on ether at about 800 rpms I have 60ish and it pegged the 100psi gauge at roughly 1200rpms (my tach is inop). I just printed out the valve/injector adjustment procedure and read it over and over and was ready to do that when I realized that I never actually took the return off (from head) so I did that and there isn't a steady stream coming out neither cranking nor running. it dribbles mostly and then 'spirts' about a foot every couple seconds.
So, my question is, does it sound as tho compression is getting into the return side? Is that even possible? Shouldn't it have a steady stream of fuel returning? (it does coming out of the back of the pump). The pressures sound close enough from what I've read and the gauge doesn't 'flicker' from air being induced. I'm sorry for the book here, but I can't figure out why this happened so quickly.

I would appreciate ANY and ALL input,
Thanx guys, Ken
 

doghead

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Have you used the emergency shutoff cable ever? Is the valve reset(must be done under the hood, manually).

Have you tried manually overriding the electric fuel shutoff?

Stop using ether.

Have you read any of the Technical Manuals?
 

KenaAuto

Member
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Location
Casa Grande, Az.
I've resealed the shutoff valve and made sure it is open. I have used the screw to open the electronic valve (even tho it tested ok) and I've red the TMs til my eyes hurt.

and on the ether, I spray wd-40 with it to help a little. I don't want to use any more, that's why i'm here.....I know what that stuff does! lol
 
166
1
18
Location
Hayes VA 23072
I bet you are still getting a little bit of air somewhere. It will not run if you have any air leak of any kind from the fuel tank to injector. Check all your fuel filter gaskets and all joints, hoses and connections. The best and easiest way I check during a recovery is to pressurize the fuel tank to about 3-5 psi.....let it pressurize and then start bleeding from the point nearest to the tank, until you get to the injection pump. You can make a gas cap adapter or simply just use a bunch of duct tape around the fuel filler cap inlet. If you are completely certain that there are no leaks, it might be time to pull you fuel tank pickup assembly, I have never personally seen it, but sometimes the pickup tube has a bad solder joint, causing a an internal leak inside the take at the pickup tube. I would spend a few hours being 100% certain before going into the tank.


If you have a 100 psi inline fuel pump, you could hook it up off a fuel can before your IP and see if it will crank too.
 

doghead

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Great, what is that?
 

cpf240

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I have a feeling you might know with 17k posts!
That stuff must have been in there a while because the rest of the system from the pump back was clean. the tank has some minor surface rust on the bottom but not worthy of a full cleaning job.
While Doghead may know what that is in your picture, there are others that may come across this thread that do not.
 

KenaAuto

Member
41
0
6
Location
Casa Grande, Az.
Dangit!

:cry:Well, I get the bonehead award. I dropped the rear (#6 cyl) injector rod....the rod that pushes the injector closed, down into the depths of the engine. I'm pretty sure I heard it hit the oil pan and at least it should be close to the drain since it's also on the rear. Should be.
What sucks is that none of the other ones stuck to the rockers, and the rear isn't the easiest to get to when your back is screaming for you to stop. Also, I had just finished reading a thread where a guy lost his screwdriver bit the same way and thought to myself "I'm going to be very careful". Oh well, what's a few gallons of oil when you're on a budget (insert sarcasm).
 

KenaAuto

Member
41
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Location
Casa Grande, Az.
Well, I got the beast back together this weekend. I was lucky on the injector rod....it was stuck to the oil drain plug magnet. I can't believe how much power she has now. Since I've never driven something like this before, I didn't really know how much power it was supposed to have. Now it purrs at 45mph instead of laboring like before. I'm a happy camper!

....p.s. thank God, Will Wagner's threads, and this forum for the TMs. I would be scratching my head without them.
 

doghead

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Great news!
 
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