Newby from da U.P looking to buy a deuce

[UPFINN]

Hello all!

I'm from Ishpeming in Michigans Upper Peninsula. It is a small mining, logging, and agricultural town. I spend most of my time outdoors fishing, shooting, biking, snowmobiling, skiing, and ham radio activies (call KD8OIR). I am just weeks away from graduating HS. I work at home and my work activies have put me in a situation where I need a big truck. I build rustic furniture, do woodburning art, convert unwanted manure into worm castings, and various odd jobs. Borrowing friends vehicles and my dads Ford Explorer just won't work anymore. The M35A2 has caught my eye.

I believe I am in the perfect situation to justify owning one of these beasts.

-Work at home, so no long commute
-Big yard and driveway
-Not in a hurry, no speeding
-Access to two smaller vehicles
-Stores are right along highway in case I need to use the deuce as a "grocery grabber"
-Rural area
-Poor roads, half dirt
-Like working on vehicles myself
-Enjoy vehicle mods
-Dislike all the computers in newer vehicles
-Access to shop equippment
-Friends who are diesel mechanics
-Free waste motor oil
-Deep snow covered roads in winter, mud and washboarding in summer
-To to haul logs, furniture, manure, farm goods, atvs, campers, and snowmobiles
-May need to travel deep into wilderness on muddy or snowy roads
-Parades
-Ham radio field days

I have the opportunity to buy a M35A2 from a guy who got the truck given to him by a relative. The guy was dissapointed with its slow speed and lack of creature comforts for a mud truck. Due to his lack of mechanics skills, he decided to park the truck and drive it a few times a month to keep it going and avoid creating any issues that would require major repairs in anticipation to resell it.

Truck is in perfect shape. No rust, brand new paint job, hard top, winch, drivetrain systems sound good, engine is good, etc. However, after its long winter of storage the seller said the brakes and air have quit working. However, it seems like the seller thought it was full air brake. He said the brake pedal goes to the floor. I asked him if the low air pressure alarm goes off when he starts the truck, and he said no, which makes sense since he never drained the air tanks. Two weeks ago when he went out to the storage area to start the truck and discovered the issue, he never bothered to check the air pressure gage. Cant yet say for sure if the air system is good and the buzzer isn't broken.

Seeing that the brake pedal goes to the floor, and the only main brake components are the master cylinder, hydrovac, and wheel cylinder, I believe that it may just be low on brake fluid. I bet the wheel cylinders leak, which tends to happen during winter storage. Only other problem I could think of is a burst brake line, bad master cylinder, or even a leaking seal in the hydrovac.

To see if the hydrovac seals/diaphrams have been comprimised, the slobber tube would need to be checked for brake fluid leakage.

Where does the slobber tube come up? On the side of the engine?

What do you all think?
Low brake fluid?
Bad master cylinder?
Hydrovac?
Does the deuce sound right for me?
How hard is it to drive? I know steering is hard and you must brake with care, but how hard is it to get the stick shift thing down? My manual transmission skills at this point are still sketchy.

I am trying to help the seller of this truck self diagnose the problems before I make a 300 country road mile day trip with a truck bed full of tools, jacks, and fluids.

I will post more updates as I get them. Goodnight and 73 -KD8OIR

 

[jamawieb]

It sounds like you have already done your homework. The M35A2 is one of the toughest trucks I've ever seen and seems right for you. We use a 1968 M35A2C everyday for farming and we are tough on it, hauling equipment, hay, and pulling anything we need. The only major problem we've had is the transfer case, input shaft bearing went out so we couldn't put the transfer case into low but keep running fine for months until we had a chance to fix it. Just remember it takes an large area to turn around, it's hard to steer and everything is extremly heavy.
As for the brakes, it can only be the 3 items you listed master cylinder, brake booster, and wheel cylinder. I would start with the wheel cylinders and change them out to make sure they are new and then work towards the master cylinder. You mentioned checking the slober tube for brake fluid but the seals might be bad and not leaking into the slober tube. The vent for the brake system can be in 2 spots, most have been updated where the vent runs up on the passage side of the fire wall and then some are still in the slober tube of the engine. The slober tube is right below the turbo and runs down on top of the axle, you should see about a 1 inch hose running down on top or in front of the front axle.

 

[porkysplace]

It sounds like you have already done your homework. The M35A2 is one of the toughest trucks I've ever seen and seems right for you. We use a 1968 M35A2C everyday for farming and we are tough on it, hauling equipment, hay, and pulling anything we need. The only major problem we've had is the transfer case, input shaft bearing went out so we couldn't put the transfer case into low but keep running fine for months until we had a chance to fix it. Just remember it takes an large area to turn around, it's hard to steer and everything is extremly heavy.
As for the brakes, it can only be the 3 items you listed master cylinder, brake booster, and wheel cylinder. I would start with the wheel cylinders and change them out to make sure they are new and then work towards the master cylinder. You mentioned checking the slober tube for brake fluid but the seals might be bad and not leaking into the slober tube. The vent for the brake system can be in 2 spots, most have been updated where the vent runs up on the passage side of the fire wall and then some are still in the slober tube of the engine. The slober tube is right below the turbo and runs down on top of the axle, you should see about a 1 inch hose running down on top or in front of the front axle.

It could also be a bad break line . I would start with filling with break fluid ( DOT5 if still mil-spec ) . Then find the the leak and acess repairs needed . This thread has part numbers for parts availibile at local parts stores Deuce Parts Quick Reference Spreadsheet

Build yourself a power bleeder and do a inspection. Deuce Power Bleeder R4x4 Style

Edit ; You will also need a 3" 8pt Fits M35A2 axle nut socket
Axle Nut Sockets

 

[3dAngus]

Likely the brake master cylinder. Get under it and check for leaks after filling it up.

The deuce isn't worth a hoot in tree lined narrow roads. Great for breaking mirrors off and cracking windshields. You may want to think twice about "going deep into the wilderness."

Good luck with it. It's probably a very easy fix.

 

[rideoffroad]

Hi I might be able to give you a hand .I live in big bay work in marquette.where is the truck located?

 

[UPFINN]

The truck is located in Northwest Wisconsin. Waiting for the seller to get back to me again with more information. He works most of the time and dosn't anwser his phone so making contact is difficult. Also, access to the truck storage area has been blocked due to the unusually high snowfall since he last checked it out. It should be melted soon. Plan is to go take a look at it with my dad and friend to make an offer. Going to take some tools with (10 ton jack, jackstands, wrenches, brake bleeder, and maybe even some brake line. If we can get the brakes working, I'd have my friend drive it back as he has experience driving old logging trucks. Dad will have the support vehicle.

If there is a leaking brake line can I use compression fittings to splice in a new section, or will I have to make a bubble flare and use flare nuts?

As for the wheel cylinders, hopefully they are not leaking too bad and it will hold fluid enough time to get it home.

I see you can either rebuild or replace the wheel cylinders. Given that the truck was used little, could I get by with a rebuild and replacement of seals, etc?