NHC250 prefilling oil filter canister

[bchauvette]

Using the K.I.S.S. philosophy I'm thinking of putting a fill plug opposite the drain plug on the filter canister to reduce no oil pressure run time after a filter change. Any thoughts why this wouldn't work.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Using the K.I.S.S. philosophy I'm thinking of putting a fill plug opposite the drain plug on the filter canister to reduce no oil pressure run time after a filter change. Any thoughts why this wouldn't work.

I reckon i would just use the drain plug..is that not an easier option? if the plugs are to be at the same level.

 

[patracy]

Wouldn't a spin on oil filter adapter (Cummins part) and a filter with a anti drainback valve be just as effective/cheaper/easier? I mean, yes, it will take a few seconds to fill after a swap, just like the stocker. But from that point on, starts should pressurize quicker.

 

[juanprado]

The absolute best way to do the same thing is with a simple spin on conversion available for $69 from B Line filters that takes a standard Cummings spin on. Easier to change and instant oil pressure with a anti drain back valve in Filter. Filters available in extended life and synthetic filter to standard media from $15-$60

No major new manufacture still uses canister oil filters and there is a reason. Old school technology that is obsolete.

http://www.blinefilter.com/

Takes maybe 15 min to change over.

 

[swbradley1]

Butch, I'm putting the spin-on filter onto my NHC250.

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

The absolute best way to do the same thing is with a simple spin on conversion available for $69 from B Line filters that takes a standard Cummings spin on. Easier to change and instant oil pressure with a anti drain back valve in Filter. Filters available in extended life and synthetic filter to standard media from $15-$60

No major new manufacture still uses canister oil filters and there is a reason. Old school technology that is obsolete.

http://www.blinefilter.com/

Takes maybe 15 min to change over.

Which part number for the correct adapter Juan? And which filter do you recommend?

 

[WillWagner]

Or....just leave the fuel off by means of the wire on the fsov or positive shut down, and crank it 'till you see oil pressure. Honestly, in almost 30 years of working on this junk, I ain't seen a failure from not pre filling a filter at oil changes. If you think about the way an oil filter is filled when pre filling, you are putting UNFILTERED oil into the engine at start up. That is WAY worse than no oil in a filter at start up. Just let the engine idle until pressure shows on the gauge, you'll be fine.

 

[WillWagner]

No major new manufacture still uses canister oil filters and there is a reason. Old school technology that is obsolete.

Incorrect. Look at all the new Mercedes/Detroit, Isuzu and some PACCAR engines. The cannister filter is not inefficient or obsolete. The filter media is obsolete. With the advance in technology, the cannister filter is coming back because of less waste.

Don't spread FUD

 

[juanprado]

Which part number for the correct adapter Juan? And which filter do you recommend?

I used a Baldwin brand OB1368 ( It is a reboxed fleetguard) from B Line Filters in Odessa TX

standard filter NAPA 1970, extended life 1970XE, high efficiency (synthetic media) 1970XD. For wix add a 5 to the front of the part number 51970, 51970XE, 51970XD

 

[juanprado]

Incorrect. Look at all the new Mercedes/Detroit, Isuzu and some PACCAR engines. The cannister filter is not inefficient or obsolete. The filter media is obsolete. With the advance in technology, the cannister filter is coming back because of less waste.

Don't spread FUD

Thanks for the update. I was not aware of those changes but it has been a few years since I was in the parts field.

 

[VPed]

The GM 2.0, 2.2, 2.4 L engines use a pleated element canister filter. Much less waste material than a spin-on. The system is designed to drain the oil out by breaking the seal when unscrewing the housing. You just have to remember to change the filter BEFORE draining the crankcase. Really easy and no mess. The only drawback from my point of view is that the small amount of material comprising the filter element does not translate into a low-cost filter.

 

[bchauvette]

Well finally did the the oil change. Found out I can have my cake and eat it too. If you just pull the filter can drain plug with out some sort of fabricated trough it pours oil all over the diff banjo. If you just crack open the can it makes a neat easy cleanable oil track down the front of the banjo catch and on the ground under the banjo.

My butt hole was very tight waiting for oil pressure. Definitely going to pre- fill the filter.Some people are uncomfortable with per-filling. My thinking is that the purest the oil is ever going to be is straight from the bottle. Just gota be anal about cleanliness. I will use unopened bottles.

Oil Change tip #2: Oil shoots out from the oil pan almost 2 feet after taking out the drain plug. Adjust the catch bucket accordingly.

Oil Change tip #3: If you warm up the engine before an oil change, as you should, the drain plug is hot and difficult to reinstall quickly. See tip #2.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

The spin-on filter can be partially filled prior to installation. Average time to full oil pressure after my spin-on conversion is 3-4 seconds.

If you have two 5 gallon buckets you can place one under the oil pan with the back edge even with the drain hole. The other is held almost horizontal to catch the stream when the plug is removed. When the stream starts flowing let the almost horizontal bucket spill over into the bucket on the ground till it is full. When the one on the ground is full start tilting the second one while keeping it in line with the stream. Once vertical it can be set on the ground and moved as the stream slows.

I didn't worry about trying to catch the plug and just used a magnet to fish it out of the bucket.

 

[acme66]

Install your canister with the drain plug up. I used a clean gear oil bottle to put a bunch of clean pre-charge oil in. When time comes for oil change, loosen the canister some and it can be spun back around so the drain hole is down, then drain normally. I have done it this way twice now and it has never leaked out of the back when loose enough to spin. Yea that little drain hole is in a rough position to not make a mess. I use a hunk of roof gutter to direct it to a bucket.

Ken

 

[Scar59]

I have the complete Baldwin kit w/ Fleet Guard filter (LF670) in stock. They are listed in the classified,
Ships to your door, priorty USPS
JC

 

[73m819]

When I change oil from a 855, I use a piece of cardboard to make a trough for the oil from the filter to flow to a waiting bucket, 100% no mess.

What I am looking for is the adaptor for a remote filter setup like the lube a finner setup

 

[Julian]

If you are really concerned about run-time with no oil pressure, the auto racing equipment folks sell engine oil accumulators in various sizes. Before you shut down the engine, you open a valve and the the oil flows into the accumulator which has a diaphragm or piston with air on the other side. The air is pressurized until it equals the oil pressure and then you close the valve, maintaining the oil under pressure. Before the next start, you open the valve, the pressurized oil goes into the oil galley and lubes everything before the engine turns. You start the engine, then once pressure has stabilized, close the valve for the next start.

I also built a similar device for starting engines after sitting a long time, after rebuilds, or oil changes (and I always prefill the filter)- a large pvc pipe with two end caps, one with a removable plug, the other with a hand valve. I put in a gallon of oil, keep the pipe vertical and attach a hose from the valve to either the canister drain or some oil pressure port. I pressurize the pipe at engine oil pressure with an air regulator, open the valve and close it when I see air in the tube, then start the engine. Instant oil pressure. I had a Ford diesel with a worn oil pump that had low oil pressure, and the engine started to seize before pressure built up, so I have been burned once. Don't try this if you can't keep stuff absolutely clean.