No AC output

[240hippie]

802a. Yes I have the manual. Ran generator a month ago for power outage, all good. Went to start and run a couple weeks later, no power on the gauge. No generator output. Went thru manual trouble shoot. Pulled top panel, found ground wire burnt in half. This wire went to a long bridge. was #9 on the bridge. Checked the main contactor, cleaned it. Checked all connections. Repaired ground, test ground thru existing grounds, good. Not having any luck with the troubleshooter at this point. Any ideas, would be helpful. Thanks

 

[Guyfang]

802a. Yes I have the manual. Ran generator a month ago for power outage, all good. Went to start and run a couple weeks later, no power on the gauge. No generator output. Went thru manual trouble shoot. Pulled top panel, found ground wire burnt in half. (What wire? They have numbers) This wire went to a long bridge. (What is a bridge? It will have a number written next to it, someplace. What number?) was #9 on the bridge. Checked the main contactor, cleaned it. Checked all connections. Repaired ground, test ground thru existing grounds, good. Not having any luck with the troubleshooter at this point. Any ideas, would be helpful. Thanks

1. Do you have the Quad circuit Mod on the gen set?
2. If so, have you checked the fuse?

 

[Light in the Dark]

Burnt grounds don't 'just happen'. I think that needs to be thoroughly fleshed out, before you worry about AC out. Would hate for YOU to become the ground.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Have you removed the roof panel over the operator controls, to look at the entire area 'where the magic happens'?

 

[240hippie]

Burnt grounds don't 'just happen'. I think that needs to be thoroughly fleshed out, before you worry about AC out. Would hate for YOU to become the ground.

Yes I know grounds just dont fail. But the manual is kinda lost with the generator trouble shoot. Yes I know I have to "flesh" things out, this would be why I am asking.

 

[240hippie]

Have you removed the roof panel over the operator controls, to look at the entire area 'where the magic happens'?

Yes, I took K1 apart, it is like new inside. TB4 terminal #9 is a ground. The wire was burnt. Rep[laced the wire. The issue is the manual is lacking on troubleshoot for the generator output.

 

[240hippie]

802a. Yes I have the manual. Ran generator a month ago for power outage, all good. Went to start and run a couple weeks later, no power on the gauge. No generator output. Went thru manual trouble shoot. Pulled top panel, found ground wire burnt in half. (What wire? They have numbers) This wire went to a long bridge. (What is a bridge? It will have a number written next to it, someplace. What number?) was #9 on the bridge. Checked the main contactor, cleaned it. Checked all connections. Repaired ground, test ground thru existing grounds, good. Not having any luck with the troubleshooter at this point. Any ideas, would be helpful. Thanks

1. Do you have the Quad circuit Mod on the gen set?
2. If so, have you checked the fuse?

Quad is modified , has fuse and veristor. All good. The ground wire was melted, dont have a number. A "bridge" is a place were multiple wires are connected. . TB4 is the "bridge I am speaking about. . Took K1 apart, like new inside. Tap it with a small hammer, tap not hit. All of this was in my 1st message

 

[240hippie]

802a, looked thru all of you pdf's, have a manual down loaded. Not very helpful. My 802a was working just fine a month ago, had a power outage and did its job. I went to start/run the gen 3 weeks later, know AC voltage on the gauge. The interrupter switch did light at this time. Finally got to work on it today. Found ground wire burnt thru for terminal #9, TB4 bridge. Replaced wire. Did not see any other wiring damage. Still inop. Pull K1 and clean and tap. Still inop. K1 looked brand new inside. Loosened and tightened as many connections I could get to. Still inop. Now the ac interrupter light does not come on. Push test and bulb is good. I did test ground #9 TB4 to all other grounds and is good. I need a direction. I can not find any help in these manuals for this problem. I thank you for any thoughts. Rich

 

[240hippie]

Quad is modified , has fuse and veristor. All good. The ground wire was melted, dont have a number. A "bridge" is a place were multiple wires are connected. . TB4 is the "bridge I am speaking about. . Took K1 apart, like new inside. Tap it with a small hammer, tap not hit. All of this was in my 1st message

802a, looked thru all of you pdf's, have a manual down loaded. Not very helpful. My 802a was working just fine a month ago, had a power outage and did its job. I went to start/run the gen 3 weeks later, know AC voltage on the gauge. The interrupter switch did light at this time. Finally got to work on it today. Found ground wire burnt thru for terminal #9, TB4 bridge. Replaced wire. Did not see any other wiring damage. Still inop. Pull K1 and clean and tap. Still inop. K1 looked brand new inside. Loosened and tightened as many connections I could get to. Still inop. Now the ac interrupter light does not come on. Push test and bulb is good. I did test ground #9 TB4 to all other grounds and is good. I need a direction. I can not find any help in these manuals for this problem. I thank you for any thoughts. Rich

 

[240hippie]

Burnt grounds don't 'just happen'. I think that needs to be thoroughly fleshed out, before you worry about AC out. Would hate for YOU to become the ground.

802a, looked thru all of you pdf's, have a manual down loaded. Not very helpful. My 802a was working just fine a month ago, had a power outage and did its job. I went to start/run the gen 3 weeks later, know AC voltage on the gauge. The interrupter switch did light at this time. Finally got to work on it today. Found ground wire burnt thru for terminal #9, TB4 bridge. Replaced wire. Did not see any other wiring damage. Still inop. Pull K1 and clean and tap. Still inop. K1 looked brand new inside. Loosened and tightened as many connections I could get to. Still inop. Now the ac interrupter light does not come on. Push test and bulb is good. I did test ground #9 TB4 to all other grounds and is good. I need a direction. I can not find any help in these manuals for this problem. I thank you for any thoughts. Rich

 

[Light in the Dark]

Do you have power at the gauges (voltage and hertz registering) as well as AC at the convenience outlet?

 

[240hippie]

Do you have power at the gauges (voltage and hertz registering) as well as AC at the convenience outlet?

The hertz gauge is working and set at 60. Everything is working properly except the AC output. It was a month ago, it powered the house for 7 hours without issue. As for the convenience outlet, NO. Nothing on the voltage gauge. I tried cycling all the switches many times. I replaced the burnt ground wire and checked it to all other grounds on the gen., even to the grounding rod. One new thing, the light that comes on for the AC interrupter switch no longer light when switched. It lights when you test it. As said I did take K1 out, cleaned it but it was in great condition, as for corrosion (none). It also has the modified fuse for the quad and the varistor. I even tried a new varistor for the heck of it. The fuse for the quad is good. If I remember it is a time reset fuse. So thats what I have for now. Rich

 

[Chainbreaker]

I don't see mention of this in any of above responses... has this unit ever been mouse/critter proofed?

Just wondering if perhaps there is a chewed wire somewhere? Critters love the cozy insides of generators.

 

[240hippie]

Just used it

I don't see mention of this in any of above responses... has this unit ever been mouse/critter proofed?

Just wondering if perhaps there is a chewed wire somewhere? Critters love the cozy insides of generators.

fo

I don't see mention of this in any of above responses... has this unit ever been mouse/critter proofed?

Just wondering if perhaps there is a chewed wire somewhere? Critters love the cozy insides of generators.

r my house on an outage for 7 hours. Have done alot of maintenance. Repairs when 1 st purchased of course. Mostly engine and fuel tank,all good. Absolutely NO nests. Not chewing. The ground wire burnt. #9 to TB4 bridge. I call it a bridge, well thats what it is.

 

[Guyfang]

The K1 has nothing to do with the burnt wire.
The burnt wire could have been there a long time, unless you took a look in there before.
Did you remove the bonding strap before powering your house?

The Troubleshooting diagram can not cover every possible problem. Thats what the TM is for. Instead of tapping the K1, take it out. Follow the instructions on how to bench test it. In fact, you do not even have to take it out. You can bench test it in the set.



Remove wires 150B and 152D.
Attach 24 VDC to the terminals X&Y.
The contactor should close. you can test it with a DMM.

Also, if your DMM has roach clips" (Alligator clips) attach them to the X&Y terminals and start the set up. Use the S5 to close the K1. Hold it up. If you do not get 24 VDC at X&Y, then the problem is not in the K1 and you need to look someplace else. If you get 24 VDC at X&Y, then the K1 is the problem.

TB4 is a Terminal board. That's a place to connect lots of different wires for different circuits.




I will guess that the wire that burnt was 100G. Coming from PP Ground. If you did not remove the bonding strap on the set. this burnt wire could be the reason why.

 

[240hippie]

The K1 has nothing to do with the burnt wire.
The burnt wire could have been there a long time, unless you took a look in there before.
Did you remove the bonding strap before powering your house?

The Troubleshooting diagram can not cover every possible problem. Thats what the TM is for. Instead of tapping the K1, take it out. Follow the instructions on how to bench test it. In fact, you do not even have to take it out. You can bench test it in the set.

View attachment 945677

Remove wires 150B and 152D.
Attach 24 VDC to the terminals X&Y.
The contactor should close. you can test it with a DMM.

Also, if your DMM has roach clips" (Alligator clips) attach them to the X&Y terminals and start the set up. Use the S5 to close the K1. Hold it up. If you do not get 24 VDC at X&Y, then the problem is not in the K1 and you need to look someplace else. If you get 24 VDC at X&Y, then the K1 is the problem.

TB4 is a Terminal board. That's a place to connect lots of different wires for different circuits.


View attachment 945698

I will guess that the wire that burnt was 100G. Coming from PP Ground. If you did not remove the bonding strap on the set. this burnt wire could be the reason why.

I know nothing about a bonding strip. Were would this be and what do I do to disconnect.??? The K1 had a couple tiny burn dots on the contacts. Other than that I could not have said it wasn't new. Let go to this bonding strip. It had been run for months with heaters and thought to be good to go. It did power my home and garage for 7 hours during an outage. The unit has 24 hours bought, 46 hours owned. Since its tier rebuild

 

[Guyfang]

How did you connect it to the house? Back feeding? Or a real hook up system? The Bonding strap should be unhooked when your house is connected. @kloppk can maybe explain this better or maybe @Scoobyshep ? The bonding strap is located on the TB1, output load panel. Under the load terminals. There is reference to it in the operators TM.

 

[240hippie]

How did you connect it to the house? Back feeding? Or a real hook up system? The Bonding strap should be unhooked when your house is connected. @kloppk can maybe explain this better or maybe @Scoobyshep ? The bonding strap is located on the TB1, output load panel. Under the load terminals. There is reference to it in the operators TM.

Real Deal hook up. I will check TB1. AWG8 wire, twist lock plugs, lock out on breaker box. There always seems to be a "reference TM". I never can find these "TM". But I will check TB1, i would be surprised after working correctly for 7 hours hooked to my home, that would be the problem. Never know

 

[Scoobyshep]

Ground loops do weird things. you should have 4 wires from the set to the house. if there is no switching of your neutral connection (most common) then you need to be sure the neutral to ground bond at the generator is open.

 

[Scoobyshep]

your lockout physical interlock or manually applying loto?