No AC output

[kloppk]

The image you posted is not the AC VR Test in the TM. That's a brief cheat sheet without the needed steps and conditions to correctly perform the tests.
The table of voltages listed on your sheet are approximately what one would measure IF the set was running, no load and outputting correct AC voltage.

Here IS the AC VR test procedure from the -24 TM...
Perform the steps and list the measurements for each measurement step.
For example..
Step h. 7.9 volts DC

 

[240hippie]

The image you posted is not the AC VR Test in the TM. That's a brief cheat sheet without the needed steps and conditions to correctly perform the tests.
The table of voltages listed on your sheet are approximately what one would measure IF the set was running, no load and outputting correct AC voltage.

Here IS the AC VR test procedure from the -24 TM...
Perform the steps and list the measurements for each measurement step.
For example..
Step h. 7.9 volts DC

View attachment 945809

View attachment 945810

Thank you. I will not be able to perform this today, maybe not until Monday. We have major thunderstorms on the way. Hail last night. I will get back as soon as I can. Again thanks for the right docs.

 

[240hippie]

Thank you. I will not be able to perform this today, maybe not until Monday. We have major thunderstorms on the way. Hail last night. I will get back as soon as I can. Again thanks for the right docs.

OKAY a break in the weather. Test h., 22.7 vdc. Test j., 14.0 vac. Test L., 24.7 vac. Test n., Yes the potentiometer does adjust smoothly to 5000 ohms.

 

[kloppk]

OK, your test h. result of 22.7 VDC confirms my suspicion that there is an open circuit from VR terminals 5,6 and the static exciter or a burned-out static exciter. Most likely it's a wiring/continuity issue and not the static exciter.

Here is the wiring path from VR terminal 5 to F- of the static exciter.
105x is just the base wire number stenciled on the wires.



Here is the wiring path from VR terminal 6 to F+ of the static exciter.
104x is just the base wire number stenciled on the wires.


Basically the wires run from the VR to terminal block 5. Then they run to the J5 connector in the "floor" behind the gauge panel.
P5 plugs into J5 below the floor.
The wires from P5 run into the generator head and are connected to a small block just inside the gen head. The wires have inline
butt connectors to connect to the wires that run into the gen head to the small block.
The two wires that actually go to the static exciter are also connected to the small block just inside the gen head.
The upper circled items 12 from the static exciter are connected to the block.
10 is the block.

Issues likely are...
- corrosion in the P5 or J5 connector pins
- P5/J5 are disconnected
- inline connection(s) to gen head are disconnected
- wire(s) are disconnected to the block or there is corrosion
- rodents chewed thru those wire right where they enter the gen head. Fairly common!

Least likely is that the static exciter is burned out.

 

[240hippie]

OK, your test h. result of 22.7 VDC confirms my suspicion that there is an open circuit from VR terminals 5,6 and the static exciter or a burned-out static exciter. Most likely it's a wiring/continuity issue and not the static exciter.

Here is the wiring path from VR terminal 5 to F- of the static exciter.
105x is just the base wire number stenciled on the wires.
View attachment 945818


Here is the wiring path from VR terminal 6 to F+ of the static exciter.
104x is just the base wire number stenciled on the wires.
View attachment 945819

Basically the wires run from the VR to terminal block 5. Then they run to the J5 connector in the "floor" behind the gauge panel.
P5 plugs into J5 below the floor.
The wires from P5 run into the generator head and are connected to a small block just inside the gen head. The wires have inline
butt connectors to connect to the wires that run into the gen head to the small block.
The two wires that actually go to the static exciter are also connected to the small block just inside the gen head.
The upper circled items 12 from the static exciter are connected to the block.
10 is the block.

Issues likely are...
- corrosion in the P5 or J5 connector pins
- P5/J5 are disconnected
- inline connection(s) to gen head are disconnected
- wire(s) are disconnected to the block or there is corrosion
- rodents chewed thru those wire right where they enter the gen head. Fairly common!

Least likely is that the static exciter is burned out.

View attachment 945820

Okay, got that. The way it sounds with your "Most Likely Issues". Will I be able to get to all of these connections if I remove the main lug panel and the cover off of the generator end to look inside.? Am I on the right avenue to get to these problem connections? I will copy all of this, and let you know what I find. Thanks Rich

 

[240hippie]

Okay, got that. The way it sounds with your "Most Likely Issues". Will I be able to get to all of these connections if I remove the main lug panel and the cover off of the generator end to look inside.? Am I on the right avenue to get to these problem connections? I will copy all of this, and let you know what I find. Thanks Rich

So, I have the cover off the gen head. I attached pics of it. Also of the other compartments. The VR. Nothing odd with figure 10. Wires look ok, did a tug test. Did not unplug, did not tug hard. Inside of head looks pretty decent, no nests.

 

[Ray70]

Now I'd try a continuity test from VR 5 and 6 to F+ and F- on the exciter board ( item #10 ) as Kurt indicates in his chart above.
If you find an open circuit on either wire, work backwards testing closer and closer to the VR until you find the disconnect point.

 

[240hippie]

Now I'd try a continuity test from VR 5 and 6 to F+ and F- on the exciter board ( item #10 ) as Kurt indicates in his chart above.
If you find an open circuit on either wire, work backwards testing closer and closer to the VR until you find the disconnect point.

I will have to try that tomorrow. Out of time today. I did forget to send pics of J5,P5. Very clean connection. Dont know the pin size to do a drag test. Probably wouldn't have the correct one anyways. I did apply dielectric. Never hurts. My old unit patch is the last image. The dude that goes by guyfang is only 50k from my old barracks in Germany. Crazy the people you run into. I will do this next round asap.

 

[240hippie]

I will have to try that tomorrow. Out of time today. I did forget to send pics of J5,P5. Very clean connection. Dont know the pin size to do a drag test. Probably wouldn't have the correct one anyways. I did apply dielectric. Never hurts. My old unit patch is the last image. The dude that goes by guyfang is only 50k from my old barracks in Germany. Crazy the people you run into. I will do this next round asap.

Okay, found bad connection at #10 block. The butt connectors did not seem tight. Gave them a sqeeze and the AC gauge now reads 115v. hertz60. ONLY works on the convienience receptacle. I flip the AC Inturupter Swicth and it does not light. NO AC power out of the main lugs. Getting closer.

 

[Chainbreaker]

So, I have the cover off the gen head. I attached pics of it. Also of the other compartments. The VR. Nothing odd with figure 10. Wires look ok, did a tug test. Did not unplug, did not tug hard. Inside of head looks pretty decent, no nests.

Ok, got an easy question... in reviewing the above photo's in Post #66, specifically IMG 20258.JPG... why are there scorch marks on what appears to be a fuse? Is that the one you mentioned earlier as "tested good"?

 

[240hippie]

Ok, got an easy question... in reviewing the above photo's in Post #66, specifically IMG 20258.JPG... why are there scorch marks on what appears to be a fuse? Is that the one you mentioned earlier as "tested good"?

I dont think that is "scorch" marks. When I pulled the fuse and tested it, it was very clean. NO burn marks at all. Tested the fuse out of the holder and tested it in the holder, both ways. Their may be some tinting or age to the contacts, I will look at it again. I now have power reading on the vac volt gauge and power to the conveinience plug. Not to the lugs. But getting better.

 

[Chainbreaker]

I dont think that is "scorch" marks. When I pulled the fuse and tested it, it was very clean. NO burn marks at all. Tested the fuse out of the holder and tested it in the holder, both ways. Their may be some tinting or age to the contacts, I will look at it again. I now have power reading on the vac volt gauge and power to the conveinience plug. Not to the lugs. But getting better.

The only reason I asked is that when I select that particular photo & hit magnify the image clearly appears to show black scorch marks on bottom end of fuse & possibly the holder itself. You might want to double check it just to be sure if this is a recent photo.

 

[2Pbfeet]

The only reason I asked is that when I select that particular photo & hit magnify the image clearly appears to show black scorch marks on bottom end of fuse & possibly the holder itself. You might want to double check it just to be sure if this is a recent photo.

I zoomed in and I see what you mean now. They certainly do look like arc or scorch marks. The only way I could see that happening is someone popping the fuse in or out while the machine was running, and that doesn't seem like a recipe for success to me.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[Light in the Dark]

It certanly isn't the best methodology... but you also have to be cognizant of the fuses used. Sometimes folks take shortcuts in making the fix

 

[240hippie]

It certanly isn't the best methodology... but you also have to be cognizant of the fuses used. Sometimes folks take shortcuts in making the fix

View attachment 945918

I like the bullet, thats priceless.

 

[240hippie]

I like the bullet, thats priceless.

So I got the gen to power the conveinience plug and the ax volt gauge registers now. But I do not have power at the lugs. I have been trying to find the test for K1 and the cleaning procedure. This is what I sent out.
Well, I found a bad connection at block#10. fixed the connection and the AC Volt gauge now reads 120v. Great. But, only the conveiniance recepticle works. The main lugs are not putting out. I flip the AC Inturuptor switch and the light does not come on. The light works when you push to test, but you have to pull it back to get the light off. I have the bonding strap disconnected. Pryor to all of this, the ac switch and light worked properly. During all of this it stopped. So, I am thinking K1. I did open it and clean the 3 contacts on the top. I know there are tests for K1 and a cleaning. Again finding these are tricky. If you could help with the troubleshooting for ALL gauges working, conveinience has power. NO power at main lugs. AC switch does not light when closed. AC switch Light does light when pushed but sticks, you have to pull back to turn off.

 

[kloppk]

Do you get power to the lugs when running AND you are holding the contactor switch up?

 

[240hippie]

I zoomed in and I see what you mean now. They certainly do look like arc or scorch marks. The only way I could see that happening is someone popping the fuse in or out while the machine was running, and that doesn't seem like a recipe for success to me.

All the best,

2Pbfee

Do you get power to the lugs when running AND you are holding the contactor switch up?

I will have to check, we have big rain right now. Probably the day or 2. I will try that 1st. Also, alot of wires have been moved around and such in the last couple days. At least the generator is now producing power at the convienience plug. Thanks for getting back. Rich

 

[kloppk]

If no power to the lugs with the contactor switch in the UP position. Then...
Here is a diagram of how the coil in K1 is powered while you have the contactor switch in the UP position.
The RED path is 24 volts to K1-X.
The Green path is ground path to K1-Y.
Check for 24 volts and ground respectively along those paths with the contactor switch held up.
If all checks good then K1 is stuck and not closing. Fairly common issue due to corrosion inside K1.

 

[240hippie]

If no power to the lugs with the contactor switch in the UP position. Then...
Here is a diagram of how the coil in K1 is powered while you have the contactor switch in the UP position.
The RED path is 24 volts to K1-X.
The Green path is ground path to K1-Y.
Check for 24 volts and ground respectively along those paths with the contactor switch held up.
If all checks good then K1 is stuck and not closing. Fairly common issue due to corrosion inside K1.
View attachment 945919

Great, as said when the rain stops Monday I will get back to it. I did have the K1 apart days before I found the bad connection at block#10. There were a couple tiny burn marks on the 3 contacts on the top. Cleaned up very easy. Took out of the box, it looked brand new. Always thanks Rich