No battery power.

hvillem1009 · Oct 20, 2015

I haven't been on here in awhile. I searched the forums to see if I could find anything similar. I am having a problem with my m1009. I had to replace the batteries due to bad swelling on both. I put the new batteries in and went to crank truck. I took voltage readings, front 12.74 back 12.78 and then from negative front to positive rear and got 25.43. Inserted key and turned it to the first position to heat glow plugs. All dash lights came on, when the WAIT light went out I attempted to crank the vehicle. When I did this, all dash lights went out and nothing happened. Now I have no power to anything in vehicle. I took battery measurements again and from front to back I only got 12.8 volts instead of the 25.43 before I attempted to crank. I have been checking all wires and can't find anything showing a short or open. All the fuses are still good. Can someone please give any advice on what I need to check, or any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

SgtHaas · Oct 20, 2015

I have had the similar problem. Look at the buss bar on the fire wall. Most likely the conections are dirty or bad.
1. Disconnect batteries
2. Unbolt all connections and clean them with a wire brush them apply dielectric to them and rebolt them back.
3. Same to battery connections.
4. Same to fuse box
5. Reconnect everything and reattempt to start.
Hope this helps. This is what I did. No issues since.

MarcusOReallyus · Oct 20, 2015

Have you checked your fusible links? They can look fine and still be burned.

CUCVLOVER · Oct 20, 2015

As stated check fusible links, and the buss bars.

Check to make sure your battery clamps are tight and the wires are secure to said clamps. Check the ground wire from the front batt. On my truck it connects to radiator support, its kind of hard to see as its usually covered by the battery. Also check ground from frame to block I'm 99.99999% sure it should have one.
Also make sure both batts hold a charge and load test ok separately. New batteries can die over night and be bad when you buy them.

hvillem1009 · Oct 21, 2015

I got the new batteries load tested today, both were good. I will next start inspecting all grounds to make they are good. Then I will inspect and test the fusible links. I will give another update when I get these items checked. Thanks again for the help.

hvillem1009 · Oct 23, 2015

I have not found any bad grounds or fusible links, visually and metered checked. I reconnected batteries and still can not get even the headlights to come on or make the horn work. Not even brake lights will come on. All fuses are good in fuse block. The only thing I can get to work are the after market off road lights I put on. Still getting 12.49 volts when I check across batteries for 24 volts. I disconnected the batteries because I didn't want to damage anything else. Everything was fine until I put new batteries in vehicle. Any more ideas anyone? I'm at a loss right now.

CUCVLOVER · Oct 23, 2015

Are the black out light switches in correct spots for the lights and such to work?

Can you post up a couple pics of your batteries and a couple close ups of the clamps?

hvillem1009 · Oct 23, 2015

I will get some pictures on here tomorrow. I did check blackout switch. I have used safety wire to ensure the switch doesn't move.

CUCVLOVER · Oct 23, 2015

Ok.
Are your batts dual post? As in top post and side post ?

hvillem1009 · Oct 23, 2015

The batteries are top post. I am using the same brand and part number that the old ones were. 950 CCA.

CUCVLOVER · Oct 23, 2015

That don't have side too?

cpf240 · Oct 23, 2015

hvillem1009 said:
... I did check blackout switch. I have used safety wire to ensure the switch doesn't move.

By this are you saying that the switch is in the "service lights on" position?

hvillem1009 · Oct 23, 2015

The service light switch is in the "ON" position. When I was in a volunteer fire department, we had a M1008 and had to safety wire the switch because some people were moving the switch.

Warthog · Oct 24, 2015

Let's do some testing.

1 - Remove the battery cable between the two batteries. Check the ohms of that cable.
2 - go to Walmart or your local parts house and buy some wingnut terminals and a short battey cable. Connect the two batteries and check voltage.

I'm suspecting that your cable are corroded internally.

jpg · Oct 24, 2015

Warthog said:
Let's do some testing.

1 - Remove the battery cable between the two batteries. Check the ohms of that cable.
2 - go to Walmart or your local parts house and buy some wingnut terminals and a short battey cable. Connect the two batteries and check voltage.

I'm suspecting that your cable are corroded internally.

If internal corrosion is the problem, don't you also need to check voltage under load? I was taught that a corroded cable may show appropriate voltage and connectivity (ohms), even though its ampacity is shot.

jpg · Oct 24, 2015

Warthog said:
Let's do some testing.

1 - Remove the battery cable between the two batteries. Check the ohms of that cable.
2 - go to Walmart or your local parts house and buy some wingnut terminals and a short battey cable. Connect the two batteries and check voltage.

I'm suspecting that your cable are corroded internally.

If internal corrosion is the problem, don't you also need to check voltage under load? I was taught that a corroded cable may show appropriate voltage and connectivity (ohms), even though its ampacity is shot.

MarcusOReallyus · Oct 24, 2015

jpg said:
If internal corrosion is the problem, don't you also need to check voltage under load? I was taught that a corroded cable may show appropriate voltage and connectivity (ohms), even though its ampacity is shot.

You are correct, sir!

CUCVLOVER · Oct 24, 2015

That's probably what it is.
The reason I asked about the batt post is because if it has side and top you might hook the cables to the side post to see if that helps. As the metal band that connects the two post could 1: be broken, or 2: corroded or (for lack of a better term) rusted in two. To where you get a voltage reading but there isn't enough metal or it isn't in good condition to draw power though.
That's just my two cents. I will admit that I am not the smartest person on this site.

hvillem1009 · Oct 25, 2015

Sorry I didn't get back on here and post pics yesterday. I went through and disconnected all connections and fuse block to clean thoroughly and applied dielectric grease like SgtHaas suggested. Thank you. By 2000 yesterday I was able to get the truck cranked and everything is working finally. I guess I need to start driving my M1009 a little more often. Thanks again for all the suggestions and help.

SgtHaas · Oct 25, 2015

hvillem1009 said:
Sorry I didn't get back on here and post pics yesterday. I went through and disconnected all connections and fuse block to clean thoroughly and applied dielectric grease like SgtHaas suggested. Thank you. By 2000 yesterday I was able to get the truck cranked and everything is working finally. I guess I need to start driving my M1009 a little more often. Thanks again for all the suggestions and help.

Glad to hear it's running!!! Keep at it

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