18operator
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This is what I built to bleed the brake system on my truck.
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No brake pedal pressure after bleeding brakes.
- Thread starter Atlas78
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One maybe should read + understand all the posts and thier derivitives.
This is bleeding the brakes that ARE Adjusted and then on the Hydraulic side too.
All these SS People all want to help.
This gets more and more difficult to show how to do it when one is loosing their vision. You Heed what is written and alluded to in these posts and Your truck will be good.
Now you gotaah report back to all of us with photos.
This is bleeding the brakes that ARE Adjusted and then on the Hydraulic side too.
All these SS People all want to help.
This gets more and more difficult to show how to do it when one is loosing their vision. You Heed what is written and alluded to in these posts and Your truck will be good.
Now you gotaah report back to all of us with photos.
Last edited:
Oerthedge21
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This is just a stupid question and I may have missed it in one of the posts, but the trucks air system is a full pressure correct? Engine can be off but you need air pressure for this to work. I kinda speed read this since my lunch break is almost over but stupid questions are my favorite kind
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Not sure what exactly you are asking. The hydraulic pressure in the master cylinder that you operate with your foot is used to both activate an air valve in the air hydraulic "air pack" that then assists in moving the hydraulic slave brake cylinder of the air pack AND the MC hydraulic pressure acts on the slave brake cylinder directly.
The slave cylinder will move with master cylinder pressure (your foot) alone, provided the hydraulic system is intact, but without air assist the brake pressure will be low.
That's also why it is so important to bleed the line between MC and air pack first.
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
The slave cylinder will move with master cylinder pressure (your foot) alone, provided the hydraulic system is intact, but without air assist the brake pressure will be low.
That's also why it is so important to bleed the line between MC and air pack first.
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
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You need to be done with this job.
Buy, rent, borrow, a little/or big compressor and pipe it up to the right rear Gladhand, Just make some fittings, they can even leak, who cares. Only need 120 PSI maximum, watch your dash gauge!
Go and operate the brakes as much as you want, Crawl all around under truck, do the work and Have soldier B pump the pedal. Do that with wheels chocked really good. Do NOT run the engine and put Everything in Neutral.
Is the vent line atop the master cylinder intact and where is it routed to?
A brand new Deuce master cylinder will survive for about 10 to 150 pumps if its vent is plugged. Is that VENT CLOSED off by bending or whatever?
Does the MC actually have as designed travel. Is the pushrod proper, did anybody mess with it?
Is there any fluid at the forward end, under the boot, of the MC?
This has gone on long enough.
DO you have a remote reservoir and if so did you delete the swashplate?
Are the holes in bottom of MC clear?
Buy, rent, borrow, a little/or big compressor and pipe it up to the right rear Gladhand, Just make some fittings, they can even leak, who cares. Only need 120 PSI maximum, watch your dash gauge!
Go and operate the brakes as much as you want, Crawl all around under truck, do the work and Have soldier B pump the pedal. Do that with wheels chocked really good. Do NOT run the engine and put Everything in Neutral.
Is the vent line atop the master cylinder intact and where is it routed to?
A brand new Deuce master cylinder will survive for about 10 to 150 pumps if its vent is plugged. Is that VENT CLOSED off by bending or whatever?
Does the MC actually have as designed travel. Is the pushrod proper, did anybody mess with it?
Is there any fluid at the forward end, under the boot, of the MC?
This has gone on long enough.
DO you have a remote reservoir and if so did you delete the swashplate?
Are the holes in bottom of MC clear?
