no camber and castor adjustment on an 08

[Dabba]

Thats what the shop who did the alignment said. True?

 

[m16ty]

You can adjust the castor by adding wedges under the springs but the camber was set when they built the axle so the only way to change it is with a torch and welder.

 

[Dizzle]

There is no caster or camber adjustment on any solid front axle. You can only tune Toe-in. Your wheels should be slightly (couple degrees) like this;

//---\\


||---||

 

[Recovry4x4]

Actually both can be adjusted. Caster, as already mentioned, by adding tapered shims between the diff housing and springpack. There exists (oe did exist 20 yrs ago) a series of tapered spindle shims to make camber adjustments. I would think most alignment shops would be ignorant to both.

 

[CUCVFAN]

The camber shims still exist. There is also an aftermarket eccentric kingpin kit to adjust the camber. They are correct that there was no adjustment from the factory, but there are specialty parts for this.

 

[m16ty]

There exists (oe did exist 20 yrs ago) a series of tapered spindle shims to make camber adjustments.

Didn't know that. It makes perfect sence though.

 

[Dabba]

hmm, thanks

 

[Westech]

You can not adjust the caster.. but like was said there are off set kingpins and ball joints for the 09's. Caster is the placement of the wheel under the springs (like a shopping cart has the wheels set back from the swivel point) All you do by adding the Shims is change the angle of the drive line. Now.. having said that.. there are "blocks" for the front that will move the axle forward 1.5 inches but that will not change the driveability of the truck, you still will not be changing the caster.

 

[StreetbikeDepot]

I'd like to add that caster CAN be adjusted with shims, BUT the trade off is the change in pinion angle, which can cause vibes from the front shaft on full time transfers. Was there a problem with your front alignment? Or was that just gee-whiz info you got from them that you didn't know? Usually if you have a camber problem the long side tube is not true in the housing or just bent. Some guys don't realize how easy it is to move the long side tube around in the housing, thats why you NEVER use your axle as a recovery point.

 

[Westech]

I do stand corrected..well we cant always be right. But that is a problem with changing the drive line angle.

 

[StreetbikeDepot]

You had your information correct you just forgot that shiming the spring perch will directly change the castor as well.

Some more gee whiz info.......In some applications where axles are swapped around into different vehicles, the inner C's have to be cut loose and spun to the correct castor and welded back to get the pinion ange and castor happy at the same time.

Most solid axles are in the 4-6 degree castor range at the knuckl, BUT there are oddballs like the Scout that have 0 degrees of castor at the knuckles, but in the Scout I believe the springs mounts are oriented in a way that positions the axle perch angled to provide enough positive castor to allow the wheel to return and provide straightline stability, because theoredically it would be dangerous or at least really unstable to drive a vehicle with straight up castor.