No Dash Lights in M1009

[tgtaylor64]

The 5A instrument fuse is good but no lights. Indicators, high beam, and blinkers work. I cleaned the instrument cluster connector and have it firmly seated. I have verified that the lights are good and have cleaned/greased the connectors. Batteries are good and load tested. Any suggestions?

 

[Warthog]

Have you tried turning the knob on the headlight switch?

Do the headlights work? The headlight fuse feeds power to the headlight switch which feeds the instrument panel bulbs

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Did you verify you have juice at the fuse? How's the ground?

 

[phil2968]

Did you verify you have juice at the fuse? How's the ground?

Orange or pineapple?



Baaawaahaaaa!

I'm sorry! I had too!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Report for flogging at oh dark thirty!

 

[timarr]

If the switches are all right, check the three grounds that go to the engine block. its right side back of air cleaner.

 

[tgtaylor64]

Turning the knob only turned on the courtesy light under the dash. Headlights work.

 

[Warthog]

Check for power on both sides of the fuse. If none then your headlight switch may be bad.

 

[swinters]

I've seen a number of times where all of the bulbs burned out quickly after a couple of others did. Theory explained to me by Chevrolet when the CUCVs were about a year old was that as other bulbs burned out the remaining ones in the same circuit burn hotter and burn out quickly. Ohms law seems to support that. They recommended using long-life bulbs as replacements.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I've seen a number of times where all of the bulbs burned out quickly after a couple of others did. Theory explained to me by Chevrolet when the CUCVs were about a year old was that as other bulbs burned out the remaining ones in the same circuit burn hotter and burn out quickly. Ohms law seems to support that.

Um, no, it doesn't.

 

[tgtaylor64]

Checked for power on both sides of fuse. After putting in no less than three 'good' fuses from the shop, I decided to pick up a fresh pack of Buss fuses at Autozone while I was having my rebuilt alternator tested. Guess what, they now work! My guess is that I had oxidation buildup on the fuse holder and the constant insertion and wiggling around cleaned it off. As a wise man once said, if it is electrical, clean it.

On a somewhat related note, I decided to clean all battery posts and to replace some cheap cable ends with high quality ones made from 000 welding cable at Richbourgs in Florence, SC. What a difference! I was able to 'find' an additional 2 Volts and now I am getting almost 29VDC across both batteries and at the dash voltmeter.