I just found this site and been reading some of the stuff and wounded if the guy from Texas figured out his battery draw, because I'm having the same problem.The front battery is going completely dead. Fried one new battery already, then put a new one in and switched locations and now the the one in the same place is dead. Is there a way to remove the 24 volt system all together ? And can you tell me is the starter 12 or 24 volt?
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No Juice
- Thread starter Mash4x4
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AJMBLAZER
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24 volt starter.
Do a search for the M1010 battery issue as it's been discussed frequently lately. A little while ago someone got very much into the hows and whys of it and what was done to fix it by the government.
Do a search for the M1010 battery issue as it's been discussed frequently lately. A little while ago someone got very much into the hows and whys of it and what was done to fix it by the government.
JohnFire
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You can convert to 12V if you want to but you have to get a 12V starter and redo the battery cables. If the 24V system is working and you can track the problem it might be easuer to stay on 24V. If not just ask and we can get you a link to a site that has step by step instructions on doing the conversion.
AJMBLAZER
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I think it's a bit more complicated with his M1010. The starting system is entirely different from ours.
Crash_AF
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The front battery is the one that the 12V truck electrics run off of... at least on all other CUCV flavors... The M1010 might be different, but I don't think a 12V conversion will fix your problem.
Later,
Joe
Later,
Joe
ida34
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The starting system is not different but the charging system is. It uses a 24 volt alt to make room for the air conditioning compressor. It then has a converter to convert the 24 volts back to 12 volts and I think this converter box is the big problem with the ambulance variants.
Crash_AF
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I thought the 1010s had two 100 (or 200) amp alternators mounted on the passenger's side with a big voltage regulator mounted on the driver's inner fender. That regulator is what I hear is the problem.
Later,
Joe
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Joe
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The regulator is the smaller box. It's not typically the problem, unless it is actually broken. The DUVAC is the problem (large blue box on driver's fender). It's not really a "converter" box. Each alternator is 28V, but one is regulated down to 14V to charge the 12V side of the system as needed. Problem was it didn't work, so the front battery got undercharged, the rear got overcharged and their lives were shortened. It is debatable whether the military fix did anything to solve the problem.
My personal fix, given everything else is working properly and wired correctly is to switch the red and orange wires on the DUVAC box (orange to front post and red to rear post). This forces the top alternator to run in 14V mode all the time and the bottom stays in 28V mode. You end up with a split system, but it charges the front battery properly. You can also switch the top alternators internal regulator to "low" when doing this and it might be a little easier on the alternator. I sold my truck before I could actually try it, but TacticalTruck reported to me that on a long drive, the alternator belt got hot. Not sure if it's related or not, but setting the regulator to low should reduce the work on the regulator circuitry and alternator field circuitry.
Another thing I found was that after using the headlights, if I left the toggle in the "Service" position, it seemed to cause a drain on the battery as well, even though nothing else was on. Always turn that master toggle off, especially if you ran with the headlights on. That was my experience anyway.
My personal fix, given everything else is working properly and wired correctly is to switch the red and orange wires on the DUVAC box (orange to front post and red to rear post). This forces the top alternator to run in 14V mode all the time and the bottom stays in 28V mode. You end up with a split system, but it charges the front battery properly. You can also switch the top alternators internal regulator to "low" when doing this and it might be a little easier on the alternator. I sold my truck before I could actually try it, but TacticalTruck reported to me that on a long drive, the alternator belt got hot. Not sure if it's related or not, but setting the regulator to low should reduce the work on the regulator circuitry and alternator field circuitry.
Another thing I found was that after using the headlights, if I left the toggle in the "Service" position, it seemed to cause a drain on the battery as well, even though nothing else was on. Always turn that master toggle off, especially if you ran with the headlights on. That was my experience anyway.