No lights, but everything else works

[86 K5 Blaz]

Picked up an 86 m1009 today. It starts, runs, and drives great...but I have zero lights. Im not sure what the typical starting procedure is, but in this one you have to turn the key to the start posistion and flip the blackout light switch to run the starter. The guy also told me he used to turn the lights on by pulling out the knob and flipping the service light switch. All the (aftermarket) gauges work and the Gen 2 light is on all the time. The hack job of a stereo shorts out and blows a fuse everytime you turn it on. Ive check all the fuses, they are all good. I still have no lights, nothing, no brake lights, tails, headlights, B/O lights, turn signals...nothing. I know this is super vague, I just need somewhere to start.

Thanks guys.

 

[Crash_AF]

Sounds like it's really hacked up...

There are two switches to the left of the headlight switch, the right one has to be up for any lights to work. If that doesn't work, check the 30 amp fuse on the right side of the fusebox in about the middle. If the fuse is good, make sure that it makes good contact in the box.

I'd pull the dash and instrument cluster out and check the wiring if it's as bad as it sounds. That way you can see what's been spliced/cut/mangled to try to straighten it out or at least give a better description.

Oh, and is it still 24V or has it been changed to 12?

Welcome to Steel Soldiers.

Later,
Joe

 

[344lbsofgetdown]

wow the normal start on the CUCV is turn the key to on wait till the wait to start light turns off fire it up all the xtra stuff going on there is no good the black out light switch should just controll the black outs if u dont have the switch to service lights i think it is it will disable all the lights only thing i can say is get a multie meeter and take out the sterio reed the TM on how the wiring should be and rewire it sounds like u got a electrial fire waiting to happen

 

[86 K5 Blaz]

Thanks guys. Its still the 24v system, the "30amp" fuse is actually a 15amp in mine..I'm assuming that's wrong. And its not blown either. Which leads me to think its not even being powered. All the interior will be gutted and rebuilt, there are too many hacked wires to trace and figure out so I will just rewire it all. I'm pretty good with wiring and electrical work.

 

[rickf]

Keep in mind that the wiring is different from the civvie model. It sounds like someone set it up to use the switch as a theft deterrent.

Rick

 

[Warthog]

Welcome to SteelSoldiers.

Make sure you visit the CUCV FAQ Article (CUCV Wiki) that is at the top of the page on the CUCV Forum. All of the CUCV Technical Manuals are listed and many other helpful bits of information. Download the manuals for reference. Also the wiring diagrams are in the appendix.

Also checkout the FAQ Thread for CUCV's stickey. It is where we try to post helpful tips and tricks.

Almost every question you will have has been asked and answered many times. The advanced search will become your best friend. Please don't hesitate to ask something that you can't find.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now to your issues. The first thing you need to ask yourself. Do you want to return the truck to stock or keep the hack job wiring? That answer will help us help you.

Read the TM 9-2320-289-10 Operators Manual to find out how a stock system should work. It is simular to the Operators Manual for Civilian vehicles. It tells you where all the lighs, switches, etc are located and what they do.

Warthog

 

[86 K5 Blaz]

Thanks for the info about the manuals in the FAQ threads. I dint know those were there. As far as the current hack job goes: I don't care if its factory, but I want it to be clean, and safe. All the army lights, and other crap can be removed...that makes no difference to me. The starting thing has somthing to do with a messed up lock cylinder...but I'm not sure if its worth replacing. So really, I just need a safer, more effective hack job. And by hack..I mean not original. But not janky.

 

[Crash_AF]

Ok, so does the key move completely to the "Start" position or does it stick? If it doesn't stick, it's probably the ignition switch that mounts on top of the column, not the key lock.

I really recommend pulling the dash and instrument cluster to get a better view of what's been hacked. Otherwise you're going to be on your back working behind the dash, which isn't fun. If you can take some pics of what you find, we should be able to help you put it right.

Later,
Joe

 

[344lbsofgetdown]

Thanks for the info about the manuals in the FAQ threads. I dint know those were there. As far as the current hack job goes: I don't care if its factory, but I want it to be clean, and safe. All the army lights, and other crap can be removed...that makes no difference to me. The starting thing has somthing to do with a messed up lock cylinder...but I'm not sure if its worth replacing. So really, I just need a safer, more effective hack job. And by hack..I mean not original. But not janky.

like crash said pull the dash to gt a better look on what was cut into as of a safe hack job nevr heard of one do it right th first time and u wont be sorry later pictures would be great to c of what u got going on in there there is a lot of people on this site that can help

 

[86 K5 Blaz]

You guys are the greatest. Ill get pics when I've got a bit more time to work on it. When I got home today I pulled out the hacked up stereo that the guy said bust blew fuses all the time. Put a new fuse in and I've got lights! I have to have the serivce light switch up and the regular light knob pulled. The left interior turn signal light stays on. Even when the lever isn't pulled down, when the lights are on and the brake lights do not work. I haven't check all the other fuses yet, but it seems like a ground issue to me.

 

[Crash_AF]

The brake lights are on a separate fuse, the one just above the headlight fuse. Is it ok?

Dash turn signal light is definitely a ground issue. Check the grounds under the hood on both sides. The driver's side is grounded to the mount for the radiator overflow and the passenger's side is grounded to the radiator support just in front of the battery.

Other than that, it sounds like the system is working as designed. The service light switch MUST be up in order for ANY lights to work.

Later,
Joe

 

[86 K5 Blaz]

Its soposed to be a 10amp right? It seems to be fine. Is there a way to test the switch that turns them on and off? I didnt look at the turn signal grounds yet, its dark and cold here...lol. Ill look tomorrow, also the right signal works fine when the lights are off. A tad slow, but it works. Can I just leave the service lights switch on all the time and just use my normal light switch? And the ignition switch its self seems to work fine. It doesnt stick or lock up. What is the part that I need to replace to make it work without using the ghetto switch?

 

[Crash_AF]

I'm not sure what 'ghetto switch' you're referring to... the one to start it?

For the service lights, yes, you can leave it on all the time and just use the headlight switch.

There is a switch above the brake pedal itself. If it is bad or disconnected, the lights won't work.

Later,
Joe

 

[86 K5 Blaz]

I'm not sure what 'ghetto switch' you're referring to... the one to start it?

For the service lights, yes, you can leave it on all the time and just use the headlight switch.

There is a switch above the brake pedal itself. If it is bad or disconnected, the lights won't work.

Later,
Joe

hahaha. The "Ghetto switch" is the original black out light switch that has 2 stereo amp wires running to the starter and 24v block that runs the starter.

Im aware of the brake light switch, I was just wondering if these went bad, or if I could test it.

Thanks everyone. You've all been a huge help!

 

[Crash_AF]

Seriously? LOL that's epic ghetto...

Ok, do you have a multimeter so you can check for voltage? It sounds like the starter relay is missing from under the dash. Look under where the stereo would mount and there should be a silver plate with 3 relays hooked to it. One is a big silver relay and the other two are black Bosch relays. If this is missing, the starter won't work.

Oh, and yes, you can test the switch. Take an ohmmeter and test for continuity between the two terminals. It should have continuity with the plunger out and none with it in.

Later,
Joe

 

[86 K5 Blaz]

Seriously? LOL that's epic ghetto...

Ok, do you have a multimeter so you can check for voltage? It sounds like the starter relay is missing from under the dash. Look under where the stereo would mount and there should be a silver plate with 3 relays hooked to it. One is a big silver relay and the other two are black Bosch relays. If this is missing, the starter won't work.

Oh, and yes, you can test the switch. Take an ohmmeter and test for continuity between the two terminals. It should have continuity with the plunger out and none with it in.

Later,
Joe

Ive got a volt meter, but im not sure what I should be checking for. I dont mean to sound clueless...because Im fairly good with wiring. Im just a little confused when it comes to an entire vehicles system.

There was a ghetto stereo hacked into the spot where the factory stereo was soposed to go, would this have been in the way of the starter relay? Ill look in a bit. Ill also check the switch and see what thats saying.

 

[Crash_AF]

Ok, if you're good with wiring (didn't want to assume anything and talk over your head) then here's what you check for...

I forgot to mention above that the silver relay is the one that is the starter relay.

The plug for that relay is a 4 pin plug with the following wires:
Purple
Purple/white
Red
Black

Using your multimeter set for a minimum of 24 volts, probe the red wire and see if it has 24V
While turning the key to 'Start' look for 12V at the purple/white wire

If the red wire does not have 24V, check the bottom-most fuse in the fuse box (says 24V if it's still legible). Should be a 10Amp fuse

Later,
Joe

 

[86 K5 Blaz]

Ok, sorry I havent responded all weekend. I got all the lights working on friday. It was a mixture of bad bulbs, loose fuses, and bad grounds....also a janky brake switch. Got it all working and driving it ever since. I also put all now battery connectors and hold downs because the old ones got ripped out cause the idiot didnt have the batteries tied down. Know that I've got all that fixed, Ive got a whole bunch more questions. Here they go:

1: why is my truck dripping fuel from the tube on the fuel filter? Its not just a little either. It does it when its just sitting there.
2: I know there is a million threads over this, and Im currently looking at them, but my Gen 2 light is on. Im pretty sure its a bad diode trio.
3: When it idles it vibrates the truck so much. but when I give it a tiny bit of the pedal, it evens out. Im assuming it doesnt even raise the RPMs 100rpm...but it makes a world of difference.
4: Where can I ger replacement rear window motors? Mine is bad. I wasnt sure the the CUCvs had electric windows...but mine has a rear window motor. It goes up, but it melts wires trying to go down.
5: Has anyone put any sound proofing stuff in their CUCV before? The M/T tires I have are so **** noise...I cant hear myself screaming..lol

I know its alot, and I dont expect all of them answered. But any help would be awesome!!

You guys are the greatest. Thanks alot.

 

[Crash_AF]

1. Which tube? The bottom tube is the drain, try tightening it up.
2. Swap the left and right alternators. If the Gen 1 light comes on instead of Gen 2, you've isolated the problem to the alternator.
3. You can adjust the idle screw a little bit to get the same effect as holding the pedal a little.
4. Someone has swapped in a civilian electric motor and regulator or the whole tailgate. You can get one from any civilian K5 in the junkyard or you should be able to get a new one from any parts store.
5. Yes... LOL

Later,
Joe

 

[86 K5 Blaz]

1: Its the tube coming off the bottem that dumps on the frame rail about where the fender ends.
2: Ill doing some testing and fixing later this week, Ill get back about that then.
3: Where is this idle screw adjuster at?
4: I need to go to the junk yard anyway. This sould be easy.
5: what did you use?