No power steering or brakes after new pump and lines

[Gunfighter1]

So i replaced the power steering pump, got a unit from Rock auto as it was alot cheaper than the local parts store and they didnt have one in stock. I also replaced the high pressure lines and return lines and all the belts while i was at it. All new parts in, bled the lines by pumping the brakes a few times and turning the wheel. Start it up and went for a drive and the power steering barely works at idle. When you stop youve got to man handle the wheel to make a turn and the brakes are really mushy. Could i have gotten a bad pump? I tried to re-bleed the lines again and tighten the belt but the same thing happens. Theres no squeal or whine coming from the pump or anywhere, fluid is full and no bubbles come up when you manage to turn the wheels. Im stumped. Really hope i dont have to take it off and replace it again.

 

[98G]

Mushy makes me think there's air in it somewhere.

 

[welpro222]

Double check that you routed your lines right and then jack the front of the truck up and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a bunch of times.

 

[Gunfighter1]

Double check that you routed your lines right and then jack the front of the truck up and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a bunch of times.

Ill give that a try. Turning 33's without PS on the driveway is kind of a pain.

 

[welpro222]

I have changed the steering box before, its takes a while for the air to work its way out. Changing the pump itself might take awhile for the air to bleed out. Having both front tires off the ground helps when bleeding, also make sure to keep the fluid topped off.

 

[Gunfighter1]

I tried and still no luck. Jacked up the front and turned the wheels lock to lock about 20 or so times. It puked out some fluid think from overflowing but couldn't tell when id go to full lock and its still stiff as **** to turn at idle. Think it needs more bleeding?

 

[sweetk30]

slow and steady

wheels up off ground .

fill about full .

turn left / right few times .

refill as needed.

pump brakes till no more assist .

once happy fire for 10-15 sec max and shut down .

pump brakes till no assist .

recheck and fill / blead as needed .

refire and check running this time .

once fluid gets foamed it can take a 30-40 min some times to air out . but air in lines wont work out till you move it out.

again slow and steady wins this race . way to many people skip the directions on proper fill/ blead and get screwed up .

 

[Scrounger]

It sounds like you still have air in the system.
As already posted about turning the wheels left and right. When the wheel reaches the end of the travel it needs to be held there for a little while. That is how the air is purged. Just a slow and steady turn till it stops, then hold it there for 5-10 seconds, then go the other direction. If you turn the wheel to fast it will cause the fluid to bubble and pick up air.

 

[Gunfighter1]

It sounds like you still have air in the system.
As already posted about turning the wheels left and right. When the wheel reaches the end of the travel it needs to be held there for a little while. That is how the air is purged. Just a slow and steady turn till it stops, then hold it there for 5-10 seconds, then go the other direction. If you turn the wheel to fast it will cause the fluid to bubble and pick up air.

Is it normal to overflow some fluid when the wheels turned to full lock? Just messed with it some more and it spewed out some fluid when i held it at full lock. Brakes are still soft and hard to turn buts its still 110 out so got to wait til later when it cools some to mess with it.

 

[Scrounger]

If is overflowing at full lock that means it still has air in it.

 

[rustystud]

Leave it overnight. You probably have foam like crazy right now. Whenever replacing the pump or steering box on these units you MUST be slow and careful getting the air out. There are literally hundreds of places for air to get trapped in, so you must take it slow. In the morning you should check your fluid level before starting the truck. This will be an accurate reading. Add what you need to bring it up to level, then start the truck up and SLOWLY turn the steering wheel left to right and apply the brakes all the way down. You will have to do this for awhile. Then recheck your level.

 

[Gunfighter1]

No foam at all. Its not even spilling over the reservoir anymore. Just spent a good 20 min turning the wheel and pumping the brakes in 115 degree heat and its still not working right. I just ordered a vacuum bleeder adapter to bleed it with a hand vacuum pump hopefully thatll make life easier.

 

[sweetk30]

o.k.

engine off .

check fluid level .

fire up and recheck .

if no level change = no pump function

if goes down = its working .

how did you install the pulley ?

 

[Gunfighter1]

o.k.

engine off .

check fluid level .

fire up and recheck .

if no level change = no pump function

if goes down = its working .

how did you install the pulley ?

No fluid level change. Pulley is installed correctly because i had a **** of a time trying to figure out how to get the PS belt over the larger alt. pulley. Can post up pics of it but i rerouted everything the same way i took it off.

 

[Chaski]

The question was did you press the pully on correctly with a bolt, washer and thrust bearings?

If you beat it on, or used a hydraulic pump the pump may be junk. Personally I like to pop apart the reman pumps to be sure of what I'm buying. Make sure the regulator has no washers and the flow restrictor is 5/32"

No fluid level change. Pulley is installed correctly because i had a **** of a time trying to figure out how to get the PS belt over the larger alt. pulley. Can post up pics of it but i rerouted everything the same way i took it off.

 

[Gunfighter1]

The question was did you press the pully on correctly with a bolt, washer and thrust bearings?

If you beat it on, or used a hydraulic pump the pump may be junk. Personally I like to pop apart the reman pumps to be sure of what I'm buying. Make sure the regulator has no washers and the flow restrictor is 5/32"

I used a tool from the parts store to press it on.

 

[Chaski]

Well that is good news. How much endplay does the pulley / shaft have if you try to pull it by hand in and out of the case?

 

[Gunfighter1]

Id have to look at it the morning, should it have any play or be solid?

 

[Chaski]

So two common bad things can happen that will allow you to pull out the shaft, or excessive endpla (more than 1/8"). 1) the shaft is broken. 2)the circlip that holds the rotor on has broken or come off. If you can pull the shaft out get another pump.


If not check out the pic above. You should be able to pull off the high pressure hose, then remove the fitting on the pump to see the parts in the pic above. Part number 2 is the regulator piston. The nut on the right has a screen that should be clean. There should be no washers between the nut and regulator body. The shorter the assembly the higher the pressure, the longer the lower. 2nd thing is to check the size of the hole in part #1. The hole should be 5/32". The Chevy's with hydroboost brakes and power steering used the "hot rod" version of the saganaw pump with the highest flow and pressure possible
If you can't make any headway go to the parts store and get Chevy saganaw pump. Take the regulator out of it and make sure it has no washers and a 5/32" hole.

 

[sweetk30]

no level change = pump not working .

don't know what to tell ya . time for another pump more than likely .

and you can hurt / kill a pump if to much foam in the system .