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41
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Location
Germany
If you have a Volt meter on the ohm setting, and you touch both the leads together it will have a very low or 0 reading.
Now if you go to one side if you're wire Probe/Pierce the wire, Then to the other side and probe/ Pierce the wire, it should show you the Continuity/ resistance of the wire.
You can also set your voltmeter to audible or beep setting so you can hear if there's a connection.
Hope that helps.

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Now it´s clear , thanks again
 
41
11
8
Location
Germany
If you want to remove main bulk head wirring harness.
One 10mm or 3/8 bolt in the center of the conector, that is on the engine bay side.
Two screws on the drivers side compartment side,
Also two locking tabs.
Should let you separate it with a good grasp or with a couple small prying tool being careful.
A bunch of nasty sticky grease inside. Good luck.
You have tried a continuity from inside to outside first i presume?


Three PINs of the conector have current , conector looks ok , no corrosion .
Fusebox - no corrosion , like new !
With the key on Pos. ON i have no current on the three terminals in the fusebox , shown in the fusebox thread here .

When i checked the conector for the first time and then plugged it back on his place , the ignition worked normal !!

Great joy . Then tried again after a short time , everything dead again .
 

jcollings

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Did you by chance see "Buss Bar Blues" that I posted?

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jcollings

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I know all sorts of things didn't work on my truck until I really worked all those connections and most important the grounding of all the ground contacts. Also the instrument cluster on mine inside the ribbons was a disaster I had to do a whole new instrument cluster panel.

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jcollings

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And when you say dead you mean the starter doesn't turn over for the engine does not start ( fire) up

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41
11
8
Location
Germany
I know all sorts of things didn't work on my truck until I really worked all those connections and most important the grounding of all the ground contacts. Also the instrument cluster on mine inside the ribbons was a disaster I had to do a whole new instrument cluster panel.

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great work you are doing !
 

jcollings

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There's a switch on the bottom of the steering column that is the Ignition switch possible cause of problem

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jcollings

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There's a rod that goes from the key area down to that switch that activates it when you turn key

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jcollings

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Your Formiliar with the dog head mod? You said that it started did it start by itself?

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jcollings

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Doghead modification is the starter solenoid under the dash that fails, causing the starter to run on all the time. people modify it with a more beefy solenoid. I'm sure if you put that in search Box it will pull up

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41
11
8
Location
Germany
Doghead modification is the starter solenoid under the dash that fails, causing the starter to run on all the time. people modify it with a more beefy solenoid. I'm sure if you put that in search Box it will pull up

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Thank you for this information ! But I think the starter relais is currently not the problem ....
 

Curtisje

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I think your starter solenoid may be kaputt. I would remove the starter and test it on a bench with a set of jumper cables. You probably have more problems than that but it would be worth checking it out now.
1599327839499.png
The starter solenoid is on the starter just in case you aren't familiar with it. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
41
11
8
Location
Germany
I think your starter solenoid may be kaputt. I would remove the starter and test it on a bench with a set of jumper cables. You probably have more problems than that but it would be worth checking it out now.
View attachment 811146
The starter solenoid is on the starter just in case you aren't familiar with it. Good luck.
Thank you ! You think that the starter solenoid has an influences the ignition circuit ?
 
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