Erik Jenkinson
Member
- 121
- 8
- 18
- Location
- Metairie, LA
My M1009 has lost the ability to upshift. I have done the following, given the info within the threads I have found here, as well as the procedures described in table 2-1, #56 in the 34TM.
My fluid level is in the crosshatch area on the dipstick.
I see a steady 25(in/Hg) at my vacuum pump, and that same 25 holds steady going into the vacuum control valve.
My vacuum control valve allows me to regulate my vacuum on its outgoing side between 6-12(in/Hg), and I can see that same level of vacuum holding steady at my modulator. (At idle)
The calibration procedure described here by Warthog using the .646(in) calibration block seemed like the logical next step, but I didn't do it simply for the fact that my tranny wasn't shifting, given any amount of vacuum to the modulator between 6-12(in/Hg). Had it shifted with 12(in/Hg) applied, I might have done the calibration here.
Next I replaced the modulator with a B&M red stripe adjustable, and tested it again starting at 6, and making my way up to 12(in/Hg) at the modulator, with the adjustment screw in the modulator nearly all the way out. Still the truck is stuck in 1st.
I then removed the governor, the gear is in great condition, and the movement of the valve within it, is well above the .020 minimum clearance spec in the TM on both sides of its movement. The weights are free. It really looked to be okay, given what I have read, and the videos I've found. I'm really inexperienced here, but enjoying the learning process.
The kickdown switch at the fuel pedal is not stuck open or closed, and it appears to be switching 14(V) to the solenoid on the side of the transmission. I have continuity through that circuit. I did what the troubleshooting procedure suggests, and tried unplugging it, with no effect. I have not yet dropped the pan to inspect the solenoid itself.
The 34TM talks about testing oil pressure between the steps of the troubleshooting procedure, at a given RPM, I however have no means of measuring RPM, so that's a problem.
I guess my next step is to pull the pan and inspect the solenoid and control valve assembly. Am I wasting my time and money ordering a new solenoid, and control valve assembly rebuild kit? Is the 6-12(in/Hg) range of vacuum even normal, or is the VCV just shot? My experience here is none. If I'm missing something, let me know, and Ill start looking into a new transmission. Thank you all. I love this truck. even when it breaks.
My fluid level is in the crosshatch area on the dipstick.
I see a steady 25(in/Hg) at my vacuum pump, and that same 25 holds steady going into the vacuum control valve.
My vacuum control valve allows me to regulate my vacuum on its outgoing side between 6-12(in/Hg), and I can see that same level of vacuum holding steady at my modulator. (At idle)
The calibration procedure described here by Warthog using the .646(in) calibration block seemed like the logical next step, but I didn't do it simply for the fact that my tranny wasn't shifting, given any amount of vacuum to the modulator between 6-12(in/Hg). Had it shifted with 12(in/Hg) applied, I might have done the calibration here.
Next I replaced the modulator with a B&M red stripe adjustable, and tested it again starting at 6, and making my way up to 12(in/Hg) at the modulator, with the adjustment screw in the modulator nearly all the way out. Still the truck is stuck in 1st.
I then removed the governor, the gear is in great condition, and the movement of the valve within it, is well above the .020 minimum clearance spec in the TM on both sides of its movement. The weights are free. It really looked to be okay, given what I have read, and the videos I've found. I'm really inexperienced here, but enjoying the learning process.
The kickdown switch at the fuel pedal is not stuck open or closed, and it appears to be switching 14(V) to the solenoid on the side of the transmission. I have continuity through that circuit. I did what the troubleshooting procedure suggests, and tried unplugging it, with no effect. I have not yet dropped the pan to inspect the solenoid itself.
The 34TM talks about testing oil pressure between the steps of the troubleshooting procedure, at a given RPM, I however have no means of measuring RPM, so that's a problem.
I guess my next step is to pull the pan and inspect the solenoid and control valve assembly. Am I wasting my time and money ordering a new solenoid, and control valve assembly rebuild kit? Is the 6-12(in/Hg) range of vacuum even normal, or is the VCV just shot? My experience here is none. If I'm missing something, let me know, and Ill start looking into a new transmission. Thank you all. I love this truck. even when it breaks.