Noise from rear end after replacing all 4 halfshafts

[Enforced_Leo44]

As the title says, I replaced my HMMWV halfshaft with 4 new GSP halfshafts (yes, Rockauto, I know)

I first replaced the front right one a couple of weeks back, took the humvee for multiple rides since then and it all went great
Then, I swapped the remaining 3, took her for a ride and at about 25-30km/h (15-18mph) I hear a noise that's similar to the rolling noise of the wheels, but slightly high pitched and more constant, coming from the rear

Got home, checked under the car, but nothing visually wrong from the outside
The only thing that worried me were the rear halfshafts temperatures, the shafts themselves were warm, but the inner flanges (where they connect to the differential) were almost untouchable (50°C, about 122°F), both left and right

Are these temps normal? Or should I be worried about something?

 

[mgFray]

I had an issue early on that the bolts were not tightened properly where the half shaft and brake hubs meet. This causes the bolts to gently rub on the brake caliper creating a rolling noise, almost like a bad bearing. Something to check, do you have proper clearance between the brakes and the bolts.. are the bolts torqued properly..

As for the inner flange temp, I'm not sure sorry. Could the brakes themselves be sticking slightly creating excess heat?

 

[Enforced_Leo44]

I had an issue early on that the bolts were not tightened properly where the half shaft and brake hubs meet. This causes the bolts to gently rub on the brake caliper creating a rolling noise, almost like a bad bearing. Something to check, do you have proper clearance between the brakes and the bolts.. are the bolts torqued properly..

As for the inner flange temp, I'm not sure sorry. Could the brakes themselves be sticking slightly creating excess heat?

I'm pretty sure that the clearance between the brake calipers and bolts/halfshaft flange are good and no rubbing happens, but nonetheless I'll be sure to recheck the torque on each bolt

For the temperature, I also did a brake job recently so yeah, maybe new brake pads could be creating some heat

 

[Enforced_Leo44]

I had an issue early on that the bolts were not tightened properly where the half shaft and brake hubs meet. This causes the bolts to gently rub on the brake caliper creating a rolling noise, almost like a bad bearing. Something to check, do you have proper clearance between the brakes and the bolts.. are the bolts torqued properly..

As for the inner flange temp, I'm not sure sorry. Could the brakes themselves be sticking slightly creating excess heat?

What about the possibility of grease missing from the halfshafts? Could that cause the noise I'm hearing?

 

[Mogman]

That is not likely, if so the CV joints would heat up real quickly, 122 deg at the flanges is nothing, check it again after driving for a couple hours using the brakes
They would not be noisy until they got real hot if they had no grease they would be hotter than the flanges.
Did you use new bolts and Nordlock washers?
If you check the torque and the bolts move you need to remove the bolts and start over as you have compromised the locktite on the threads and every time you must replace the Nordlock washers.
Check and make sure you did not bend the brake hard lines where they cross the inner CV joints (rubbing on the CV joints), I would also jack it up and rotate the tires and listen for anything unusual.
That will also help determine if the brakes are dragging

What about the possibility of grease missing from the halfshafts? Could that cause the noise I'm hearing?

 

[Coug]

If you've done work to the brakes, there is always the possibility that the brake lines got bent and are rubbing on the outside of the brake rotor.

Also, check to make sure the brackets that hold the calipers don't have loose bolts holding the bracket to the differrential (I've had it happen on 3 of my 4 brackets)

 

[Enforced_Leo44]

That is not likely, if so the CV joints would heat up real quickly, 122 deg at the flanges is nothing, check it again after driving for a couple hours using the brakes
They would not be noisy until they got real hot if they had no grease they would be hotter than the flanges.
Did you use new bolts and Nordlock washers?
If you check the torque and the bolts move you need to remove the bolts and start over as you have compromised the locktite on the threads and every time you must replace the Nordlock washers.
Check and make sure you did not bend the brake hard lines where they cross the inner CV joints (rubbing on the CV joints), I would also jack it up and rotate the tires and listen for anything unusual.
That will also help determine if the brakes are dragging

I'll get new lock washers, as of now I just re-used the old hardware

Also, I thought about a better description for the noise, and it's almost like unlubricated/meshing gears, could it be the bolt that holds the halfshaft to the geared hub that's been overtightened?

 

[Milcommoguy]

If you've done work to the brakes, there is always the possibility that the brake lines got bent and are rubbing on the outside of the brake rotor.

Also, check to make sure the brackets that hold the calipers don't have loose bolts holding the bracket to the differrential (I've had it happen on 3 of my 4 brackets)

Yes, It can / does happen. Riding around in a HumV has its own fun factor.

Mine is in great running shape, trusting it to go anywhere. Funny part, likely do the same time riding around on a mechanics creeper... checking this and that LOL. It is a education from the bottom up of the goings on. On your back (calling this fun) nobody is waving, looking or pointing. That how we roll on little wheels.



Here a thousand word picture from HumV line>
Needed changing anyway.

Squeaking and leaking, CAMO

 

[Mogman]

First there should be no possibility of over tightening any of those bolts, if you did not use a torque wrench then shame on you as you may have damaged the threads in the flanges and the threads in the half shaft. or you may have under torqued them and you will have major damage and trouble down the road.

Did you look up the torque specs in the TM?

Also you should have replaced the bolts and used Norlock washers and use the specified loctite for best results, they use different loctite for the inside and the outside bolts.

Did you make SURE you got the lock washers out of the hub end with the bolt, if you managed to lose the washer in there then the work and expense really begins.
If you do a half a$$ job you will get half a$$ results every time.

 

[Enforced_Leo44]

First there should be no possibility of over tightening any of those bolts, if you did not use a torque wrench then shame on you as you may have damaged the threads in the flanges and the threads in the half shaft. or you may have under torqued them and you will have major damage and trouble down the road.

Did you look up the torque specs in the TM?

Also you should have replaced the bolts and used Norlock washers and use the specified loctite for best results, they use different loctite for the inside and the outside bolts.

Did you make SURE you got the lock washers out of the hub end with the bolt, if you managed to lose the washer in there then the work and expense really begins.
If you do a half a$$ job you will get half a$$ results every time.

Not a single washer ended up roaming around in the hub, 100% sure about that
Torque wise, shame on me for not using a torque wrench for sure, at least they are not under-torqued and no bolt came loose
Correct torque levels should be 57ft-lb for the 6 flange bolts and 37ft-lb for the bolt in the hub

 

[Mogman]

I am sorry if I was a little rough but half shaft installation is one of the maintenance items that require very close attention.
Using the correct hardware and the correct thread locker, clean threads and careful installation and torquing are absolutely essential.

Other than that if you have carefully inspected it for anything rubbing (like the brake lines) your diff and gear hub lube has been changed and the levels are correct and you have inspected all the U joints and the front shaft support bearing, made sure the brakes are not dragging I would drive it some more.