Noise on deceleration

[ThunderSquirrel]

Truck started making some bad noise when slowing down. A low grumble/grind, coming from the rear.
Had someone drive while I rode in the back to listen better, and it appears to be coming mainly from the right rear.

I am thinking that I am losing a bearing in my hub, considering there is no noise when the truck is under power.

Hoping it isn't my diff. The diff looked nearly new when the truck showed up, and was a 242 on a m998A0, so I assumed it was replaced.

Are there any other things I should check? Halfshafts and CVs seem tight, boots are brand new and no wiggle.

Going to pull the wheel off after work and see if I can hear anything while spinning the spindle.

Thanks,

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Doffs don't get replaced due to tcase update, the yoke gets changed.
drain diff and geared hubs and check for wear
this will also tell you if you have fluid

 

[ThunderSquirrel]

With the wheel off and the truck jacked up, how much play should the hub have? Mine has some wiggle. Is that normal

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Need to be more specific, you mean the wheel spindle ? If so...there should be no wiggle...except clockwise or counter clockwise...

 

[ThunderSquirrel]

Correct, the spindle. No no wiggle, just some clockwise/counter movement.

Got the hub drained, and there's quite a bit of shaving. No chunks, so far at least. But my oil is glittered up like a stripper

What I'm getting is a grind when the wheel spins forward on the right rear. I'm trying to determine hub or diff. It gets worse if the right rear spins forward and left rear spins reverse

 

[ThunderSquirrel]

The diff drained pretty clean oil, and little to no shavings.

So I'm guessing the hub? I'll have to buy a service kit before I tear it apart to see anything else.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Pull the upper outer plug that accesses the 3/8 bolt that secures the end of the half shaft...make sure this has a lock washer and is tight. If the lock washer broke off, it falls in between the hub casting and the upper outer bearing and destroys it...seen it many times. That's why you must use a fresh lock washer and red loctite and torqued to spec.
the only way to know if the bearing is shot is to remove the spindle and lower gear, this will allow you slide the upper spur gear out as a complete Assy so you can inspect the inner and outer bearings and cones.

you will need a new spindle seal and keyed washer. May as well replace the half shaft input seal too.

 

[ThunderSquirrel]

Does the access plug pop off, or is it threaded.

Found it, my Google fu is strong

 

[ThunderSquirrel]

I was able to get all my bearings from a local place here, since the Timkin part numbers were still readable. The shop had everything I needed but the seals and the lock washer. Mine currently has the 8 slot nut as well, so I will not need to upgrade that.

BlueHummer sells a seal kit, but have it listed as for the H1, and not for a HMMWV. Is there a difference in the input or ouput seals that I should be aware of?

Kascar has the seals as well, Output (29940-2094), and Input (2994-2106). Those appear to be the correct ones.

During disassembly, I noticed I do not have any shims on the drive gear retainer. Is it safe to assume that I will not need to add any shims during assembly?

Thanks

 

[linhster]

Try checking the rear rotors and pads. I had issued with mine and the definitely made some grinding noises.

 

[ThunderSquirrel]

What is the trick to get the upper outside race out?