Noises from the bellhousing area?

[Redneck92]

Noises from the bellhousing area? ( Fixed )

Hey guys,

As I started my M1009 today and wanted to drive away, it startet to do a strange grinding, ratteling, hammering noise which comes from the bellhousing area.

The noise only apeares when R D 2 and 1 are engaged. In park position and neutral the noise stops. Funny thing is, when I drive in D and engine RPM decreases the noise is also gone. It comes again when accelerating quick.

ATF Fluid level seems to be okay.
Checked the Torqueconverter Bolts.
Flexplate seems to be fine aswell.
Can´t check the fleyplate bolts, since I can´t see them.

Is there a way to check the flexplate bolts without removing the transmission from the truck?

Could it be the Torqueconverter going bad?

Hope you guys could give me some advice.

Greetings from Germany

Redneck

 

[Jeepsinker]

No. If the converter was going bad the truck wouldn't be driving and shifting. If the converter bolts are all tight, then chances are you have a flexplate that is cracking around the crankshaft hub. One way or another, you'll be pulling that transmission, and soon too.

 

[cucvrus]

You can change the flex-plate without removing the transmission. You will need to disconnect everything just like you are going to remove it. But you will not have to drop it. Do you want to know more? I have done it many times and it achieves the same results without the back breaking work and without disturbing any of the seals. And you don't have to remove the cross-member or the transfer case.

 

[Redneck92]

Here is a video from the Noise

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YaaJuSRcIE

 

[jpg]

You can change the flex-plate without removing the transmission. You will need to disconnect everything just like you are going to remove it. But you will not have to drop it. Do you want to know more? I have done it many times and it achieves the same results without the back breaking work and without disturbing any of the seals. And you don't have to remove the cross-member or the transfer case.

I, for one, would like to know how to do this.

 

[Redneck92]

I think you need to disconnect everything from the transmission and then unbolt the TC and then slide the whole thing backwards so you can reach the bolts from the flexplate

 

[cucvrus]

No need to disconnect the transfer case from the transmission. Just remove the 6 M10 bolts from the flex-plate to the torque converter. Of course you know about the flywheel cover and the starter. Disconnect all the linkage, cooler lines, wire and remove the drive shafts. Get 4 3/8" X 4" grade 8 bolts. Grade 5 will work. After you have everything disconnected. Remove the 6 bolts from the bell housing and replace them 1 at a time with the 3/8" x 4" bolts. grease them a bit and have a floor jack and a piece of plywood or a block of wood. relieve the pressure by jacking lightly on the transmission transfer case assembly with the cross member still attached. Slide the assembly towards the rear on the 4" bolts. Reach up in there and remove the 6 bolts from the crank that hold the flex-plate on and reverse the procedure to reinstall and get the vehicle back together. This is a real time saver. I have done it in the yard by myself with a few Budweiser's in about 4-5 hours. Change the transmission fluid , transfer case fluid and the filter in the transmission while you are at it. i hope that helps you out. It works and I have done it many times. removing the starter is needed to save the heat shield from being damaged. Any more questions let me know. It is a level 5 with 10 being the hardest. Torque you bolts and use lock-tight on your torque converter bolts. And hey with any luck you my just have a few loose or missing torque converter bolts. Let us know post pictures.

 

[dmetalmiki]

After checking the flex plate. and if it is ok, then that sounds like a gearbox problem,as it only occurs in some ranges. My 1/2 penne'th

 

[4x4 Forever]

No need to disconnect the transfer case from the transmission. Just remove the 6 M10 bolts from the flex-plate to the torque converter. Of course you know about the flywheel cover and the starter. Disconnect all the linkage, cooler lines, wire and remove the drive shafts. Get 4 3/8" X 4" grade 8 bolts. Grade 5 will work. After you have everything disconnected. Remove the 6 bolts from the bell housing and replace them 1 at a time with the 3/8" x 4" bolts. grease them a bit and have a floor jack and a piece of plywood or a block of wood. relieve the pressure by jacking lightly on the transmission transfer case assembly with the cross member still attached. Slide the assembly towards the rear on the 4" bolts. Reach up in there and remove the 6 bolts from the crank that hold the flex-plate on and reverse the procedure to reinstall and get the vehicle back together. This is a real time saver. I have done it in the yard by myself with a few Budweiser's in about 4-5 hours. Change the transmission fluid , transfer case fluid and the filter in the transmission while you are at it. i hope that helps you out. It works and I have done it many times. removing the starter is needed to save the heat shield from being damaged. Any more questions let me know. It is a level 5 with 10 being the hardest. Torque you bolts and use lock-tight on your torque converter bolts. And hey with any luck you my just have a few loose or missing torque converter bolts. Let us know post pictures.

Actually has used this method but used 3/8 x 7" bolts as it gives you a little more clearance to work. Wear gloves as there are sharp little buggers waiting to get knuckles...

 

[Redneck92]

Problem found!

The flexplate was grinding at the torqueconverter cover.

Pulled the transfercase anyway since im going to rebuild it.

Thanks for your advices guys

 

[Jeepsinker]

If the cover does not appear to be bent, you should carefully inspect the bellhousing for cracks. There has to be a reason that it started making contact.

 

[Redneck92]

Hey Guys,

After rebuilding my transfercase and hammering the dent out of my tc cover and putting everything back together, today the noise came back.

Flexplate grinding at tc cover again.

Look what I´ve found:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdgV2u1uOWo

Flexplate broken. Flexplate bolts are thight as ****. Flexplate still has play.

Pulling the tranny and t-case tomorrow again

 

[Jeepsinker]

No. If the converter was going bad the truck wouldn't be driving and shifting. If the converter bolts are all tight, then chances are you have a flexplate that is cracking around the crankshaft hub. One way or another, you'll be pulling that transmission, and soon too.

Remember this? Lol

 

[cucvrus]

Good Luck with your project. I am not LOL. I have been there and done it several times. I am sure winter is upon you in Germany also. So good Luck and Happy Holidays. Glad you found your issue. It is very straight forward to correct and fairly easy just time consuming. Last flexplate I bought was less than $50. US. Happy Holidays.

 

[llong66]

Using the longer bolts and just sliding the tranny back works great, I've done it a cpl of times. If you dont have a smooth surface to slide the jack on, lay down a piece of plywood or such first to slide the jack on.