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I know you're aware of much of this, but for others in similar situations — A cheap multi-meter ($10-$20 for most work like this) is your best friend for this type of diagnostic work, quick and much safer as well. Two concepts for finding clues; first of which is to begin at a point you find voltage or continuity, and follow it until the voltage or continuity is lost. There's your break. Don't know where the wire goes? Begin where you know it is, then (power off) probe for continuity where you think it should go until the meter beeps. That's it. For something like this, it would likely be to the fuse panel, pressure switch, relay, etc. When you find it, mark it or note it.perhaps I can just short the leads together to test...I’m assuming it’s a normally closed circuit, once it opens it kills the power to the relay, possibility it’s stuck open.
Congrats! I found several replacement pressure switches online from sources like Amazon. IIRC, spec is 80-on and 100-off, so an 80-100 or 85-105 normally-closed (NC) generic unit should do well for about $10. Adjustable units are also available, but I don't think there is much need for that adjustability.Compressor fixed...bad relay, multi-meter found no output when voltage applied, if I jumped it, it came on.
$35 and all fixed...but it does not shut off now, so I’m looking for pressure switch wilspec 5200-189-0001
If I unplug the connector at the switch, it kills the pump.
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