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Not mine, posting for another member

doghead

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Good day. I have an 85 m1008 that is mechanically sound but I can't drive it because I'm having electrical issues. I can work on the mechanical but when it comes to electrical, I'm at a total loss.
This truck had a few engine mounts gone and a fuel issue but that is all repaired. the truck started and drove about 3 times and then a fuseable link burned up. Replaced the link and passenger side alternator because it has some really loose components. Still wouldn't start or turn over, replaced both batteries because they were quite old. Now im getting a burst of orange electrical "flame" from the fusable link bank in the engine compartment in front of the steering wheel.
The service lights panel has been removed by a previous owner so there is only a pull switch for the lights. Some of the dash lights are working, others are not.
I just went out to the truck to check the blinkers, they worked for about 2 minutes and now they wont turn on.
Wipers work.
I will say that when I bought the truck it was not having any issues starting or driving but it was having an issue shutting off. I would turn the key and the truck just kept running. Had to put my hand over the air intake to get it to shut off.
Honestly, I feel like I'm in over my head. I could really use some help.
 

doghead

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Posted in the CUCV forum for, Jason lost in PV
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Jason, one of the hardest jobs is to clean up after somebody else's hack job, particularly when it's electrical. It's even worse when electrical is not your strong point. No insult intended at all - it's just that not everybody knows their way around electrical systems. Not a problem - we all have different strong points.

So, you have yourself a real pickle. The good news is, we can help you, but it's going to take a lot of "one step at a time" stuff. I hope you aren't in a hurry! :D

I suggest the first thing you do is to post some good pictures of your wiring. Get pics of the battery wiring, both alternator's wiring, the buss bar at the back (passenger side), the diamond block (next to the GP relay, driver side), and the service panel with whatever wiring is there.

The second thing you need to do is to verify the kind of alternators you have, and whether or not they are isolated ground. That last part is easy: Take your meter (you DO have a meter, don't you?) and test for continuity between the case and the ground stud. There should be none.

Now, I know this from experience: Some people are going to jump on this thread and say, "Replace this!, "Fix that!", "Do this!" Do that!", and "Here's what I did and it fixed it!".


Ignore them. They mean well, but ignore them. Don't start DOING stuff until we can figure out where you are ARE. That means you posting pictures and answering questions, BEFORE you start changing anything.

You can do this. It will take some patience, but there are a lot of people here who can help you. We'll walk you through it if you stick with us.

:beer:
 

Skinny

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My opinion...now would be a great opportunity to acquire the proper tools including basic electricity knowledge. After getting a firm grasp on ohm's law and how to read a diagram, go through the entire truck and undo what has been done. Go back to factory, then test one system at a time.

Trying to teach people how to do electrical work and fix a broken hacked truck really serves neither one well.

I feel like you are in a pool of many others with the same skill set and vehicles in same condition way over your head. It's not an easy task so don't get yourself down. It's a tall order the straighten out a CUCV even with two decades of experience.
 
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