Exhaust Gas Temperature is the measurement taken before the turbo Turbine Outlet Temperature is take after.
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NTC 400 Mo Power
- Thread starter eldgenb
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Don't forget about the front motor mount that has to be reworked because of the harmonic Bal. is larger and won't fit.
eldgenb
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Ok, well good went to bad went to worst today, I was attempting to remove the little plug in the head to install the elbow and tried to cheat with a standard 90 allen wrench and rounded out the hole
. Then I decided to take off the cooling fan to be able to get more space between the block and the mount to be able to use a good ratchet wrench with some penetrating oil and that did not work
. As I was moving around under the hood I knocked into the fan assembly and it fell down and took a big bite of my radiator
. So now have I not only made no progress on my dual fuel line mod but now I have the gull wings, front fenders and grill off of my truck trying to get the d@mn radiator out to have it repaired.
The thing to learn from this is to first, remove the fan blade assembly from the belt drive unit, disconnect the air line that is used to engage the fan, remove the mount that blocks your way(four bolts really easy) and use a small impact wrench or at least do a better job than I did. I will take some pics of my mayhem in the daylight and get some real good pics of the dual fuel line since the entire truck will be in pieces.
. Then I decided to take off the cooling fan to be able to get more space between the block and the mount to be able to use a good ratchet wrench with some penetrating oil and that did not work. As I was moving around under the hood I knocked into the fan assembly and it fell down and took a big bite of my radiator. So now have I not only made no progress on my dual fuel line mod but now I have the gull wings, front fenders and grill off of my truck trying to get the d@mn radiator out to have it repaired. The thing to learn from this is to first, remove the fan blade assembly from the belt drive unit, disconnect the air line that is used to engage the fan, remove the mount that blocks your way(four bolts really easy) and use a small impact wrench or at least do a better job than I did. I will take some pics of my mayhem in the daylight and get some real good pics of the dual fuel line since the entire truck will be in pieces.
I just want to see the truck in pieces!
Sorta went like my day.
Had to bring the Ford back to stock, in the snow in the cold and well lets just say manufactures of parts in the US and Canada have different ideas of what 3.5" actually is.
To make matters worse because everything is metric on the truck and the aftermarket pieces are standard I had to switch from a 13mm to a 9/16 about a dozen times. Do you know how easy it is to loose a socket in 1" of snow. Yes I shoveled but it kept snowing.
Oh and I do have more than one 3/8" drive socket I actually have 5. One is in the RV about an hour away on the farm. One is a long handle totally useless in the tight spaces (tight being the 4" between my chest and the bottom of the truck), and one is loss, the other two worked fine till I broke one.
So much for Snap-on quality!
Thanks for making my day better Eldgen!
At least it's nice working on the big green, everything may be 4 times bigger and 12 times heavier, but at least everything is standard. I don't dislike metric, worked in a bike (peddle) for years, everything on road bikes is metric. It's consistency I'm all about stick with one and be done.
Looking forward to pics.
Eldgen,
Sorry to hear about your bad day.....I can sort of relate to the radiator deal, since I once drilled a hole in to the core of my freshly restored radiator......trying to install a bridge plate of all things....!!!!!
Ok...so I know you have a crane now....(well....that might not work without the radiator....hmmm)
But anyway..... I have found the two "coffin hoods" to be the hardest items to remove, when working on these trucks engine compartements. They seem to want to "flop around" uncontrollably when removed...... (definately a big "finger pincher" here!!!)
So I made a little steel support with a foot that bolts to the front top of the engine, and supports the front center back bone of the hood safely in the open position.
This handy "gadget" eliminates the need to take the whole darn hood off! The fenders and core support come off pretty easy in comparison.
Anyway....thought I share that with you.
Soni
Sorry to hear about your bad day.....I can sort of relate to the radiator deal, since I once drilled a hole in to the core of my freshly restored radiator......trying to install a bridge plate of all things....!!!!!
Ok...so I know you have a crane now....(well....that might not work without the radiator....hmmm)
But anyway..... I have found the two "coffin hoods" to be the hardest items to remove, when working on these trucks engine compartements. They seem to want to "flop around" uncontrollably when removed...... (definately a big "finger pincher" here!!!)
So I made a little steel support with a foot that bolts to the front top of the engine, and supports the front center back bone of the hood safely in the open position.
This handy "gadget" eliminates the need to take the whole darn hood off! The fenders and core support come off pretty easy in comparison.
Anyway....thought I share that with you.
Soni
eldgenb
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Now you tell me, I went the finger pincher route and well.. I heal up pretty quick usually...
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Have you given any thought to retarding the timming. More fuel delivery. More fuel pressure. Decrease cyl. compression. Move more air and retard timming from what I gather.
eldgenb
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You know I have thought a lot about it but that is as far as I have gone, I am a virgin when it comes to injection pumps so if someone could explain the principal operation and how to modify it I would be in!!
I really want to avoid going into the engine too much, I honestly don't need as much power as it puts down stock but I can never leave well enough alone. Once I get the 15 spd in the truck the extra power will be nice to pull the extra OD gear in the tranny.
R Racing
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You dont have to take anywere that much appart to take the radiator out.3 hoses ,and Its only the 2 studs on the bottom that the 3/4 nuts come off And the upper Radiator bracket . If the fan is out just wiggle and pull up and out !
R Racing
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Sorry for some reason I thought this was a M809 series truck not a 900 .
eldgenb
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Yeah the 920 is almost that easy, take off the gull wings, fenders grill (which has its own support, four hoses, two side plates that contain the power steering and tranny coolers, two bolts on the bottom and then it comes out. I am waiting for a buddy to come help me man handle this thing in about an hour to take it in to the radiator shop. After getting a good look at this thing with the engine bare I am going to take this time to do a mild tune up, belts, filters etc. I am also going to use the tsb on the alternator to increase the voltage a bit and finish my pump mods since it is all right there.
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Jeeze you guys . . . Gull wings?? Coffin hood?? It's called a Butterfly hood. Real trucks still have them.
oldMan99
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eldgenb
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Yeah to retain some sence of my manhood I think I will stick with gull wings.."Butterflies" How cute.....
eldgenb
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So here are some pics of the mayhem, radiator is at the shop will cost about $80 to repair and I have all new belts and filters to install in the morning. I bought 2 45' 1/8 elbows and one 1/8 to 5/16 adapter and a 30" brake line from napa. Everything went together perfect, the line sold there was very easy to work with, bent it by hand over a socket to keep it from kinking. Ran the truck to check for leaks and noticed the truck ran quieter and had a much more balanced idle than before and that is all with no panels on the front for any kind of noise suppression either, so far so good!!
By the way the guy with the hose is an SS member name Ranchhand (Dave).
By the way the guy with the hose is an SS member name Ranchhand (Dave).
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eldgenb
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last couple of photo's
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You need to support that new line or it will break.
eldgenb
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thanks for the advice, My little ray of sunshine!
oldMan99
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Is there a reason to use hard line instead of braided SS line and AN fittings?