NV4500 pains

[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

Hey everyone. I wrapped up my nv4500 swap recently. It has a noticeable clunk when I let off the gas suddenly or push in the clutch.

Everything is new in the drivetrain. I’m wondering if you guys noticed that the nv4500 greatly amplified the Detroit clunk?

Also, I’m curious if maybe my spacer block and trans mount combo is too high? I used my new poly mounts that I already had for the th400/208 adapter then just put a 4”x4” steel block on top.

Any other ideas perhaps?

here is a video

More NV4500 clunk

This time I put a piece of thick rubber from a radiator hose between the shift tower and the floor. Definitely sounds internal.

rumble.com

here is a photo of the block setup:

 

[Skinny]

Manual transmissions are ten times worse then an auto with a ratcheting locker. The torque converter in the auto makes for a smooth transition between unlocked and locked.

I doubt the poly mount or driveline angle is the cause.

The other issue is unequa pressure or tread. So driving down the road it will cause the axle to load up bit the Detroit is staying locked.

Go to push the clutch in, the teeth no longer have pressure from acceleration or deceleration, boom...she pops and the truck jerks to one side. Pretty violent and it will make you think something just broke.

Occasionally mine will do that for no reason and it will wake you up better then coffee.



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[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

Manual transmissions are ten times worse then an auto with a ratcheting locker. The torque converter in the auto makes for a smooth transition between unlocked and locked.

I doubt the poly mount or driveline angle is the cause.

The other issue is unequa pressure or tread. So driving down the road it will cause the axle to load up bit the Detroit is staying locked.

Go to push the clutch in, the teeth no longer have pressure from acceleration or deceleration, boom...she pops and the truck jerks to one side. Pretty violent and it will make you think something just broke.

Occasionally mine will do that for no reason and it will wake you up better then coffee.



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I want to conduct a test with the rear driveshaft disconnected. My driveway has a slight incline in one area. My plan was to have my nose pointed down and back up in 4wd, front axle only. See if it still has the same issue when unloaded.

If it doesn’t and I suspect it won’t, then I’ll have isolated it to the rear axle. In which case, I’m going to get ARBs.

 

[Skinny]

If you are willing to pony up money for selectables then a Detroit will never be smooth like that.

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[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

If you are willing to pony up money for selectables then a Detroit will never be smooth like that.

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You can usually find 10% off somewhere which puts it under $1000. A price I’m willing to pay to get rid of the Detroit’s street mannerisms.

 

[Skinny]

Do you need a full locker?

You can get a truetrac for the 14 bolt. Ive had them in the past and will give you very close traction if you arent lifting a tire but are silky smooth on the street.

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[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

Do you need a full locker?

You can get a truetrac for the 14 bolt. Ive had them in the past and will give you very close traction if you arent lifting a tire but are silky smooth on the street.

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Most of the time, no. But I already have OBA, so for about $120 more I’d prefer it for the times I’d actually need a full locker.

...I think. I’d be worried if I was on a snowy or grease mud trail that the true trac wouldn’t work as well...but I’m not sure if that’s a reasonable fear.

 

[Skinny]

The last truetrac i had was in a yota pickup that I solid axle swap on. Only had the rear axle diff set up with a truetrac, only had 2wd.

At the time I had a girlfriend that lived way up on a hill. Super steep driveway. One snow storm I was out heading up there, figured I would never make it. 2nd gear to the floor it left two tracks all the way up. Made it!

I was impressed with the performance. I had one in the front of an old XJ. I always liked them for non-hardcore applications but it looks like the 14 bolt runs about $850 which is pricey.

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[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

The last truetrac i had was in a yota pickup that I solid axle swap on. Only had the rear axle diff set up with a truetrac, only had 2wd.

At the time I had a girlfriend that lived way up on a hill. Super steep driveway. One snow storm I was out heading up there, figured I would never make it. 2nd gear to the floor it left two tracks all the way up. Made it!

I was impressed with the performance. I had one in the front of an old XJ. I always liked them for non-hardcore applications but it looks like the 14 bolt runs about $850 which is pricey.

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Yep, the 14ff is right up there with an ARB. I looked at them. It’s still in the back of my mind as an option...

 

[shotty]

Manual trans with the locker is definitely a lot noisier, clunkier, and jerkier than with the auto. I've learned to just be very smooth with the throttle and clutch, and not freak out if it sounds like my driveshaft just snapped for no reason, especially after making a turn.