Odd M1009 Charging issue

[aebiv]

I heard that one a lot too, although I've also heard from others who've swapped out a lot of the old relays and such that they never had a problem since... So here is hoping.

I'm certainly not new to the whole wrenching thing, or fixing it differently than stock, so I hope that once I get over the slight learning curve of the CUCV I can start contributing some more ways to make our old diesels more reliable.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll have Gen2 back in the morning, we'll see if that solves these bizarre problems.

 

[southdave]

I have heard that too, I got basket case that I m doing, I think it a Karma check. I need to vent my frustration, sorry. I have 87 1 ton dump with a 6.2 for years. never had anything really go wrong accept for water going bad cause the shaft to fall out and going though the rad.. , but that was my fault.

 

[aebiv]

I've had a U1200 Unimog that was the bane of my existance... Everything from random air leaks, to wiring issues (another 24v system, but with a hot ground which always made it confusing) transmission issues etc...

Venting frustration is more than certainly allowed.

Anyone else notice M1009's sagging on the front right?

 

[jrou111]

Good luck with your alternator issues. I just started having some problems with mine as well.

It starts just fine, but when I'm traveling down the road at a steady speed, the 1 & 2 lights go on and off, and the battery indicator moves back and forth from the middle of yellow and green up into the red.

 

[aebiv]

Well, I'm going to be sure to post my findings when I get gen 2 back, and I plan on rebuilding gen 1 and the starter when I have time in the next month as well. Hopefully this fixes all the issues, if not I'll keep posting what I did to troubleshoot everything.

Good luck with yours as well!

 

[jrou111]

How much is the shop charging you to rebuild Alt. #2?

 

[aebiv]

Not sure yet, as I don't have the final bill, but from what they said it'll most likely be under 100, and probably more towards 70.

I'll post back when I find out.

 

[aebiv]

So, got Gen2 back after $60, they replaced all the normal items in it and said that the regulator had died. I put it in, and went to start the blazer and nothing happened.... Lights came on (expect for gen2) and everything was normal, but no cranking...

So I tried it again and this time it cranked (What in the world?) started up and started it's normal idle. Glow plug relay still kicked on and off for a few minutes, but the weird thing was, the fuel gauge and the hazzard lights stayed lit like before when I turned on the headlights.

I checked the voltage at the alternators, and combined i was running 29.50-30v, so I'm assuming everything is charging fine, but what the **** is going on with the rest of the system? I checked the two relays next to the starter relay and replaced them. All the fuses in the fuse box are good... Am I possibly looking at a fried ignition switch?

 

[aebiv]

Anyone know the wires for the ignition system? as in which color does what?

 

[southdave]

man that sounds like voltage regulator gone bad I have alot of fords in my life they did all what said charge no charge ghost in the gauges light dim on an off I don't know off hand where or what the are on gm on a ford in the eighties it was box on the fender well coming off the alt now they are internal i thing with the alt?

 

[aebiv]

The alternators are putting out what they should though, and aren't changing... I don't have any registered voltage at the gauge in the dash though, even though i'm getting 30v combined from both alternators...

Blinker lights stay on, gas gauge stays on empty, buzzer keeps sounding... Really weird... I've never seen a voltage regulator go bad, so I'm not sure what all that does...

These things can't be that complicated that it would be a hard fix... lol

 

[woodyNla]

I had that happen to my truck one time. It was an S-15, but the same symptoms. Turned out to be a lose ground under the dash. The ground point on that truck was on lower left between the colum and the kick panel. May not be the issue you have, but it wouldn't hurt to trace the ground for the dash wiring.

 

[aebiv]

Ground looks good, and have low ohm's for resistance.

It started right away today, but when that glow plug relay kicks in when it is warming up, it kicks in for about a second, every 3 seconds. Voltage drops, and engine idle drops (my guess is from the load placed on the alternators.)

There are two electrical boxes on the left of the footwell, right by the fuse box, are those in charge of running/starting the vehicle?

Still, the dash is doing it's thing, and even when I disconnect the ignition harness (from the key to the vehicle) everything stays the same.

 

[choll]

I had the same problem I changed the relay and then put another grounding cable from the batteries to the body. That was 5 years ago never happened again.

 

[aebiv]

Which relay did you swap out?

After pulling the gauges I found that the wire to Gen2 (+ positive one, the ground was fine) looked like it had been burnt out. I'll upload a photo ASAP.


EDIT:

I think I found the issue with the Gen2 light! Ordered a replacement from LMC today. $99 with shipping ouch

 

[choll]

I replaced the one you have clicking on the fire wall. Takes 5 mins give it a try

 

[aebiv]

Will pick it up here in the next hour or so.

The ground you ran, just a new one from the front battery to the firewall? I've heard it could be a ground in the dash, but I can't find the grounding point for that, plus with a multimeter, the gauge plug seems to have all good grounds.

 

[Buckmaw]

The next time I have my dash off I will look to see if my GEN2 lead is burnt also...

Good Find!

Also, If I might suggest, ditch the starter relay under the dash and wire in a 60amp push button starter switch. I installed mine up by the volt meter at first, but then I installed a temp gauge there and relocated it down by the radio cutout.