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Oh no! What have I done? My new M1010

tourdog

New member
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madison me
charging

the 1010 has 2 100 amp lesse neville alts that are 24 volt the top put power top the blue box on fire wall or the dulvac system . the bottom supply the box only the top helped out when need . the best way to conver these to 12 volt is throw them two alts out put two new 12 volt lesse neville alts on . take out fire wall reseter for the glow plugs . change starter move on . if you can get ac delco alt i found just need to egg shape the bracketholes then they fit .
 

swyne

New member
85
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Location
upstate,NY
I have an '87 M1028 with the 24V Leece and Neville alts. The owner before me had trouble trying to keep the front battery charged. He replaced the Duvac Blue Box and still had trouble. Also the orange wire mod thing was done and still had trouble. When I got the truck I had checked both altenaters out and they weren't putting out, So I had them rebuilt by an awesome place that I would recommend to anyone and WAMMO!!! no more problems. There is a small tiny little screw adjustment under the regulator on these alts. They must be adjusted once installed. That is an output level adjustment. They are preset when rebuilt. I found out that you can get it adjusted just about perfect. I've adjusted mine at 14V for each one and knock on wood I've had no trouble. Its been six months and she'll start everytime.
 

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
I've adjusted mine at 14V for each one and knock on wood I've had no trouble. Its been six months and she'll start everytime.

Have you verified the output of each ALT? The lowest I could get a 28v Leece was 18v. I went so far as talking with them directly about the issue and they confirmed my findings.
 

tourdog

New member
77
0
0
Location
madison me
alts

how are you getting 14 volts from a 24 volt alt. when i got my 1010 the blue box had issues thow it in junk pile . just taped wires no issues yet .but still would like to know how you are getting 14 volts from a 24 volt alt.
 

krebsatm02

New member
20
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1
Location
Bryan, TX
Revival! I had grand dreams for my M1010, but I'm going to take it down a notch and just enjoy it.


Since the windshield is has been smashed for years, I think I'm going to take the cab completely off, clean everything up, and then repaint it. Obviously match the front clip also. I'm sure I'll find lots of mud dobber fun! For the box, I think I'm just going to strip the paint off to the aluminum and see how that looks. Going for the airstream look.

I have a good set of 35"bfg mud terrains laying around I'm going to put on it. I'll see how much lift I need to clear them. I've got amount of chevy lift stuff laying around... What can I expect for a comfortable top speed with the stock gearing and 35's?

I'm torn on what to do with the AC. Lavarok, how well does the AC cool the cab being it's in the rear? Being in Florida, you have relatively the same climate as we do near coastal Texas. If I could get the stock AC to work with minimal effort I'd leave it. I've tossed around the idea of throwing in a dual system such as on a suburban. I actually have all of those parts in my attic...

I definitely need to clean up the wiring. Looking under the hood makes me nervous!
 

mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,637
381
83
Location
Spring Branch, TX
I put a lot of money into getting my A/C going and it was pretty much wasted for the driver. I can get the box down to about 70 when it's 95 outside but the cab stays about 105 while driving. Problem with these trucks is there is zero insulation in the cab compartment (okay, maybe a little on the firewall) so you get tons of heat off the engine and from the road and during the summer off of the roof. I even mounted a house box fan between the litters and it couldn't push enough of the cool air into the cab.

Mine leaks like a sieve so adding insulation would be a mistake as everything would just retain water and rot it out. My answer after fighting with it all summer was to buy a 2005 F250. Finally air that works.

As for the lift - 100dollarman had a thread about doing a baja runner with a M1010 (I couldn't find the thread but maybe someone else has it). It looks pretty good but the front fenders need a chunk removed for the tires to fit.
 

krebsatm02

New member
20
0
1
Location
Bryan, TX
Yeah, I'm pretty versed in chevy 4x4's. I rock crawled a K5 blazer for a number of years that went from half ton to 3/4 ton to 1 ton axles with varying stages of lifts, springs and tires.

I'm sad to hear the AC won't cool the cab well. Maybe a box fan running on an inverter!aua
 

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
I am thinking about bed lining the interior of my M1010. It seems to work well in my other trucks and keeps the heat down. That would be step one. Step two would be to create a removable baffle duct setup that will attach to the front of the AC and redirect the cool air into the cab.

Fans dont seem to do squat in regards to moving the cool air from the back to the front. The rear gets plenty cold, just need to get that cool air forward. Maybe a duct to move air in and a fan to pull the hot air back.

Alot of newer vehicles have split AC setups and I wonder if a similar setup could be done using some of the stock components. Having a few vents in the dash would certainly solve the problem.
 

krebsatm02

New member
20
0
1
Location
Bryan, TX
Been a few years... Time and money have been limited but I still have dreams! I finally got around to removing the windshield and cleaning out the cab well. Hopefully I can start slowly. Anyone removed their box before? I've got a fork lift at work... Also, anyone know how the box is constructed? Steel frame with insulation sandwiched between the aluminum?

Also, anyone interested in any engine or electrical items? I'm most likely going to swap engines and redo most of the electrical...

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