I have a motor in my 803 that has a reset tag that said 2.5 hours. That is all I can decipher. The oil looks clean, but I am having low oil pressure when hot. Probably 25-30LB on the gauge. I am going to hook up a manual gauge to verify the electric. But thinking I need to change the oil to a 15/40 and start with a clean slate. I don't know history of the motor other than the tag. Would appreciate your thoughts. I have read the reset information on this site, but don't see anything that pertains to my question specifically.
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Oil Change on Reset motor
- Thread starter CapePrep
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It should have break in oil for the first 100 hours then an oil change. After the break in I run synthetic in my personal gens. It makes a noticeable difference.
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If you have under 100 hours it's best to change it with the John deer break in oil.
Are you you getting a low oil pressure light?
Are you you getting a low oil pressure light?
I am not getting a LOPL, just reading the gauge. The issue is I don't know if it already has the 100 hours on it. Would help if they put the original hours on the reset tag so we could determine that. I have enough diesel equipment to know dirty oil, this stuff looks nice and fresh, but a little thin. I need to just get the manual gauge on there and see what is going on.
Jetred
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When I started testing one of my 803’s I noticed a similar condition. After flushing and refilling the coolant at a -25 ratio it ran cooler. The Govplanet yard for Letterkenny is just an old farm field. No infrastructure, so no water, sewer, or buildings. I’m thinking it was filled with straight antifreeze, causing limited cooling. I remember seeing another post where someone had the same issue and after refilling the coolant with no more than 50% antifreeze, his problems went away. Something for you to look into.
As as for your oil. All my low hour units had been drained and Govplanet refilled all fluids. They get more money for the auctions when posting a video of them running. Using Daybreak’s advice, I drained and refilled with the John Deere break in oil. It’s $15 a gallon from my local JD tractor dealer. Not too bad. Now I know what’s in my u its and how long it’s been in it. Clay
As as for your oil. All my low hour units had been drained and Govplanet refilled all fluids. They get more money for the auctions when posting a video of them running. Using Daybreak’s advice, I drained and refilled with the John Deere break in oil. It’s $15 a gallon from my local JD tractor dealer. Not too bad. Now I know what’s in my u its and how long it’s been in it. Clay
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Although the oil in the unit is clean all be it a little thin as you say, you couldn't go wrong changing it out with known break in oil for your own peace of mind.
I would still verify the pressure as you mentioned, that way you will also know if you are getting a correct indication and whether or not you have another issue.
I would still verify the pressure as you mentioned, that way you will also know if you are getting a correct indication and whether or not you have another issue.
snowtrac nome
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the rule of thumb is 10 psi for every thousand rpm. at 1800 rpm you should still be good at 20 psi
- 2,543
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What is the hours on the meter now?
Approx. 575 hrs.
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Change the oil to synthetic
- 6,089
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My guess says your engine has 573hrs on it and probably still has the break in oil.
The tag on the engine says the engine was installed when the meter read 2.5hrs. The meter now reads 575.
I'd change the oil and go from there.
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The tag is usually on the generator stating the unit left the reman facility with the 2.5 hours. They are tested for 2-3 hours before they are shipped out.
Howdy,
MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts
The 2nd posting has the information about a Generator Reset and what was done to it.
The oil information is there too. John Deere Break In Oil is 10W-30 It is non-detergent oil to let the film build up for proper break-in.
MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts
The 2nd posting has the information about a Generator Reset and what was done to it.
The oil information is there too. John Deere Break In Oil is 10W-30 It is non-detergent oil to let the film build up for proper break-in.
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Have any of you switched to 5w40 T6 synthetic? My oil pressure jumps up fast on a cold start.
Bmxenbrett
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The reset tag says it was ran for 2.4hrs after the reset was complete. They all say 2.4hrs. I believe that when/if the motor was changed they replace the hour meter. So your engine has 574hrs. Syn vs con oil can be debated for years but the real question is how many hours do you plan 9n useing it before next oil change? 0-300hrs? I would just use Rotella conventional as you most likely wont see the benefits of synthetic.
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In my personal experience, the synth oil is only a few dollars more and it really does make a difference. Plus its easy to forget to change your oil. Time flies. I think the engine would last alot longer with the synthetic oil vs regular. Car engines do.
snowtrac nome
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Up in the arctic 5w40 is all I run. I only use it in liquid cooled engines though found problems with aircooled engines. it makes every thing from my yellow cat motor to my 70 something dorset ford diesel start real easy. and the plus side is extended change intervals.