Oil cooler lines - Napa, build your own with AN fittings, or hack/rig the stockers?

[drewzee87t]

Hi all,

I have leaky oil cooler lines and I have done considerable research here, leading me to three possible fixes:

1. get the napa Chinese ones and hope you don't have problems with getting them loose from the fittings on the oil filter housing, etc. Cost about 120 usd
2. build your own with AN fittings and adapters with parts from earl's, summit, etc. cost about probably the same as napa
3. hack em and replace with whatever hoses will fit with clamps....

I guess number 4 would be get a hydraulic shop to refit them with new hose, based on tractor hydraulic lines I have had done, it would be more expensive and I would still have the risk of juking them up at the oil filter housing when removing.

I am leaning towards option 3 as I don't want to spend 120 bucks, some have had good success just using hose clamps and generic line, and you don't have to get involved with corrosion and other issues that may completely hose up the job at the engine.

I think I got the problem sussed out but I am always at awe for the tricks that you guys know on these. I want the cheapest and easiest (obviously). My initial thought was order the lines from rockauto or wherever and replace them but then I read of some issues here. Please indulge me with your opinions.

Thanks as always!
drew

 

[Ue413]

I believe Dorman sells the equivalent lines for around $30 each depending where you purchase. I started at Rock auto to find OE part number. (They sell oe parts closer to $110 for both)

 

[cucvrus]

I have used oil line and hose clamps. Spring type hose clamps and standard hose clamps. The first ones I made a wrapped in white paper towel and drove it a few days checked it the towels were clean. I wrapped them again drove a week or longer and left it go. No leaks. I bought a pair of A C Delco's from the GM dealer.(Made in China (Mainland) ) Ha Ha. They are not a direct fit. I bought Dormans in the past. hit and miss. I always use the stock clamp and bracket. If I chose not to use that bracket and get the clamp back on I may fare out better. But the lines went again the fire wall against the exhaust manifold. Never found the good fitting ones like the Genuine GM ones years ago. So IMHO. Going forward I will opt to use rubber hydraulic line and hose clamps. NOT all hydraulic line has steel braid in it. You want the line with out. Not that much pressure and the fittings that go into the block and cooler are barbed for reuse. Good Luck.

 

[3jumpjeep]

Hi all,

I have leaky oil cooler lines and I have done considerable research here, leading me to three possible fixes:

1. get the napa Chinese ones and hope you don't have problems with getting them loose from the fittings on the oil filter housing, etc. Cost about 120 usd
2. build your own with AN fittings and adapters with parts from earl's, summit, etc. cost about probably the same as napa
3. hack em and replace with whatever hoses will fit with clamps....

I guess number 4 would be get a hydraulic shop to refit them with new hose, based on tractor hydraulic lines I have had done, it would be more expensive and I would still have the risk of juking them up at the oil filter housing when removing.

I am leaning towards option 3 as I don't want to spend 120 bucks, some have had good success just using hose clamps and generic line, and you don't have to get involved with corrosion and other issues that may completely hose up the job at the engine.

I think I got the problem sussed out but I am always at awe for the tricks that you guys know on these. I want the cheapest and easiest (obviously). My initial thought was order the lines from rockauto or wherever and replace them but then I read of some issues here. Please indulge me with your opinions.

Thanks as always!
drew

I had a local shop that repairs forestry equipment replace mine. I think they charged me $50.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[drewzee87t]

I showed my hydraulic guy a pic and he said he can't fix them, recommended a place that does power steering hoses and told me it would be expensive. I am going to try the hoses and clamps route, will let you all know.

While I was checking it out I fixed my hard/late shift problem - the vac hose at the transmission was rot and the stupid connector at the vacuum regulator valvle was also rotted (the one that you don't need other than to keep retards from connecting the wrong hose to the top side). Shift like butter now

thanks

 

[Tinstar]

As noted, ACDelco still makes them.


There was a SS member who repaired his using AN fittings and braided hose.
Looked good and it’s a lifetime fix since it’s so easily repairable.

I think the tread was placed in the cucv stickies. Haven’t looked myself to verify.

If you want cheap and easy, that’s exactly what you’ll get.

Do it right the first time and never look back.

 

[cucvrus]

Sorry. I do NOT consider it a cheap fix to put hydraulic rubber hoses and hose clamps. It is a good fix if done correctly. No need to over budget this simple repair. The oil cooler hoses on several types of vehicles were fixed this way. We had police cars come in that had minor oil leaks on the oil cooler lines. Ford had discontinued servicing the lines only. It required a $400. part that included the lines. We bought hydraulic line and oetiker clamps and did the repairs on several of the township cars. This oil cooler line is a low pressure line. I liked the custom lines also. I still say spending more money does NOT make things better. Just fix it right the first time is NOT always the most expensive way. Simple remove the hoses or not. Fix them on the truck. It was easier to remove them. But the hose and clamp method works. I only have 2 that have that hose & clamp set up. But they are equal to the Chinese mainland repair hoses that are A C Delco. Just NOT as expensive. Have a great day. Enjoy doing the repairs and remember. It is not the amount of money spent. It is the end result of money spent that matters.

 

[Tinstar]

CUCVRUS I wasn’t talking about the hydraulic hoses as cheap.
They are not and are a quality replacement.

Was as referring to the OPs blanket statement of going cheap and easy.
You know as well as I do a lot of guys take the cheap route, only to spend twice the price later when it fails, instead of doing it right the first time.


I still have the OK plate for you BTW.

 

[cucvrus]

I know what you meant. I just wanted to over emphasis that spending big money is NOT always the best way. Heck I seen guys use heater hose for house plumbing and brag that they don't pay plumbers. It worked but very shady. I have a 150 year old farm house and when I had it remodeled back in the day. The wiring in some rooms was extension cord wired to the back of another outlet. It worked. Shady but worked. I know you like quality stuff., I was trying to say fix what you have and use quality hose. Nothing more. I don't think I would go as far as building it from race car parts. But that's just me. I like it easy and reliable. Not expensive and over engineered. I still order my new Chevrolet trucks with crank windows and rubber floor mats. But I order it with the best entertainment system and the best skid plates I can buy. Factory has a short list of standard options anymore. Most things are packages and drive the cost upward very quickly. Just like doing CUCV repairs.

 

[drewzee87t]

Wow.. These lines have been slowly leaking since I bought the truck almost 8 years ago. I didn't mean to start a messup here. I am NOT a cheap and easy guy Mr. Tinstar, so you can take that back - thank you. I am fix it right and fix it cheap. Works good, lasts a long time. If there's a zip tie or some other PC edited rigging involved then that is fine. So mind your own post and bugger out of mine?

I haven't decided yet and I am actually leaning toward fixing it "correctly" with "napa" curse word Chinese expensive garbage just to not have to explain to any Dudley do right wth is going on down there. And to make me more angry you are probably correct Mr. tinstar that I should just pony up the cash and be done with it.

I will follow up with my results. But cheap and easy is not the point. Cheap and reliable is the point. Carry on brothers.

 

[Tinstar]

I want the cheapest and easiest (obviously).

Your words.....not mine.

 

[Drock]

I saw the thread on the AN fittings, and it was cool. But I drive my M1028 all over the state of Georgia. And for the wearable items I try to use parts that I can find on the shelf of any parts store. That way if I'm 100 miles away from home and have a problem, I can pull off any exit and make repairs in a parts store parking lot. That's why I like & did cucvrus's hose clamp thing. It was cheap, easy to do, easily obtainable, and more reliable then the stock design that lasted 30+ years.

 

[drewzee87t]

Your words.....not mine.

Touche, I have been bested. I went with the dorman lines at summit so it's still cheap . We shall see about easy when they get here. Thanks to all the posters who were helpful....

Drew

 

[cucvrus]

No getting to your house will be the easy part. Getting them on the engine in the clamp and bracket and clearing everything under the hood from the cab to steering and shift linkage will be the Touche. I am serious. Last set I put on the engine was out and they were bought at the GM dealer as A C Delco Mainland China lines. Fit rating 1-10 1poor 10 excellent. I give them a 4. The flares fit and they were HD steel. From that point I got creative and bent a lot of things. Tip: Leave the nuts loose on the rear exhaust studs (manifold bracket) till you have the lines where you want them. Tight the 2 nuts last. See where you are and adjust for clearance from that point. Good Luck. If they are the heavy steel ones bend away. With in limits of course.

 

[dom1986ck30]

I HIGHLY recommend a hydraulic repair. Far more superior to the original Chevrolet part that was stock with truck. I had mine done for under $150.00. That was with premium grade fittings and rubber. They are important and also need to be durable. There are certain parts and areas of repair that can be done halfway or cheaper. Oil cooling? Come on...Do it right...

 

[cucvrus]

Do or do not. There is no try. Always done right the first time. Even when it's not done your way. It is a low pressure oil line. Hydraulic oil line and hose clamps will do the job for less then $20. I mean it works and your way would be great also. But most guys need inexpensive reliable repairs. They have bills and families to feed. And that is what you get for the $20. A good clean reliable repair. Tested tough in Pennsylvania and Ohio. Take the other $130. and do something nice for the Mrs. I just bought mine a nice pink Yeti hot/cold cup. Have a great day. And I am going to have one the right way.

 

[Ordak]

Well when mine went I put the $60 (30 each) oem advance auto cooling lines they were no up to par. I was on my way to purchase a dirt bike and the one line was not tight enough and vibrated around and wore a large gap and oil was shooting out the middle of the fitting. I limped it back to my buddy's house and had to have it towed home. I tightened them after installing them several times. I will not purchase them again. I did have a shop make custom lines out of A/C lines and the hose it much larger than stock. Seems to be working well(5 months since repair). I would suggest if going any route other than barbs replace the adapters that go to the engine block. It will save you time and aggravation because you might be chasing a leak in the hose when it from the adapters. Also I would recommend keeping either barbs, clamps, and enough hoses to replace the lines or plugs to bypass the cooler in case of failure. If I would of had either when mine blew I would not of payed my brother to come haul mine back home.

Here is a link to the adapers I am talking about that go to the engine block. This was not a part I could find at Lowe's, Home Depot, or any of 3 other local plumbing stores.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E35W3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[drewzee87t]

I got the parts in and did the job. The Dorman lines 625-154 and 625-155 fit perfect. It was a pretty easy job just have to wrangle them a bit to hook up to the engine. No bending was required. It took more time worrying about it than doing the job. No leaks but we will find out how long they last.
Th
anks

 

[cucvrus]

The Dorman oil cooler lines. Fit and finish A +. Less then 1 hour and they were in place. I did run a bolt thru the back side of the manifold bracket so I had a stud to get the clamp back on. Added a flat washer and lock nut. Just made it easier. Dorman get my vote. Even over the A C Delco. I had a NAPA set and stripped 1 putting it on by hand. ???? they will not take it back. Odd but I accept that.

 

[doghead]

My napa lines were supplied/made by Dorman.