Oil cooler lines

[REDWOLF]

Does anyone have a good resource for replacement lines. I know I can have my local hydraulic line guy build me a new set but, I would have to pull my old set of and let them build me a new set using them. My M1009 is my daily driver so I can't have it down, but my lines are weeping really bad. Thanks for any help

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[Freeland]

REDWOLF, I replaced both of my oil cooler lines last year. I purchased brand new replacements from O'Reilly. I know it sounds surprising that they would sell something like these, but they were no sht the exact fit. I don't have the O'Reilly part numbers anymore, but what I did was plugged the part numbers out of the CUCV Illustrated Parts manual into O'Reilly's website and it crossed them to what they carry. They had to order both of them for me, but they only took 2 days to come in. They're out there brand new. Best luck to you.

 

[Chaski]

If you decide to go with custom hoses read this quote from 85CUCVtom. The technique described is what I did. I had a set of "AC Delco" hoses last me less than 4 years before they started leaking, so I went with the method below, except that I used hydraulic hose instead.

So I finished up my custom oil cooler lines today and they work great with only one easily rectified leak. I wanted to post an AAR for everyone to read; hopefully it can help someone else out in the future.

First out shopping list. I went to Summit Racing but Jegs or any other speed shop would work. You will need about 10 feet of -8 braided hose (I bought a 15 foot roll and had plenty leftover), two -8 straight hose ends, one 45 degree -8 hose end, one 90 degree -8 hose end, four -8 to 3/8 NPT adapter and two 3/8 NPT couplings.

Part numbers for Summit Racing are as follows:

QTY 2, EAR-991003ERL - 3/8 NPT COUPLINGS
QTY 4, SUM-220846 - 3/8 PIPE TO -8 AN ADAPTERS
QTY 1, SUM-220887 - 90 DEGREE -8 HOSE END
QTY 1, SUM-220886 - 45 DEGREE -8 HOSE END
QTY 2, SUM-220890 - STRAIGHT -8 HOSE END

Get whatever length of -8 braided hose you want, I bought a 15 foot roll because I needed leftovers for other projects. I think a 10 foot roll would have gotten the job done with only a couple feet leftover.

After we round up our materials we are ready to tear out the old lines. Make sure to save the brass adapters that are threaded into the block, we will need these when we make our connections into the hard lines up top. At the aluminum hard lines, thread the brass adapter into the GM o-ring fitting, thread the 3/8 NPT coupling onto that and then the 3/8 NPT to -8 AN fitting into that. The finished product should look like this:

View attachment 695891

View attachment 695892


Granted this is completely assembled with the hose end and braided line but I’m sure you get the picture. See where the brass fittings from the block are? Summit Racing didn’t have an adapter to go directly from the GM o-ring fitting to -8 AN. That’s why we are using the 3/8 NPT coupling, the female NPT gives us a way to get that -8 flare fitting on. It sounds worse than it is but I searched high and low for another way to do this but this is what I came up with.

On the block end of things, thread the 3/8 NPT to -8 AN adapters into the holes in the block where the brass fittings once were. That sets us up for our hose ends. Measure out your desired length and cut away. Be sure the assemble your hose ends in a vice with brass or wood blocks, that way you wont mar the crap out of your shiny new fittings.

View attachment 695897

The uppermost block fitting uses the 45-degree hose end and the lower fitting uses the 90-degree hose end. You might be able to use a 45 degree fitting on both but I only bought one 45 degree fitting, so a 90 degree fitting was the ticket. On the lower hose end I had to put a little loop in the hose to make the hose route right. The line clears the manifold just fine and you might just be able to make the OEM clamp work; I didn’t but I’m sure you could.

It will look like this when we are done:

View attachment 695895

View attachment 695894

View attachment 695893

Last step, tighten everything down and check for leaks. I had one but a little snug fixed it.

Finished product:

View attachment 695896

If you have any questions, improvement, advice, tips or tricks please post it.

 

[cucvrus]

RED WOLF. I never met you but I have conversed with you before. The oil cooler lines nowadays are about all the same. I would think they are all made in China. Mainland. And they are all going to fit about the same. Back in the day a new set of GM lines cost about $100. and took about 1 hour to install. The replacement A C Delco lines I bought took a bit longer to tweak and get aligned. Some guys pitch the bracket at the rear. I myself put it on even if it takes an hour extra. One tip is to thread a bolt into the back side of the bracket on the exhaust manifold and then just use a washer and nut. vs the bolt into the bracket captured nut. Makes it much easier. Do as you wish. I have cut the hoses off the original ends and double hose clamps new oil cooler hose in place. Started out as temporary and since it never leaked I left it stay. The ends are ferruled so the same principle goes into effect as the sealed crimp. Do as you wish. I just wanted to help you save a bit of coin and still get the job done correctly. Good Luck. Report back. Why spend $$$ when you can fix it for $$ or $.

 

[cucvrus]

I want to correct my post. I meant to say the metal hose ends are barbed and used ones are easier to work with. My Son replaced his lines without disturbing the fittings at all. They worked till he sold the truck. I bought air compressor hose since it is oil resistant and high pressure. I think it was 1/2" but maybe 5/8". I forget. Good Luck.

 

[Gunfreak25]

I replaced mine with Dorman's years ago. No leaks, but I decided for reliability's sake to ditch the internal trans/engine oil coolers in the radiator and run separate external B&M stacked plate coolers in front of the radiator, complete with new lines like CUCVRUS did. It is definitely not unheard of to have the internal coolers leak and coolant in the oil or visa versa can really wipe out a motor or trans quickly. So for me, it's cheap insurance. I run separate coolers for all my daily drivers, regardless if the radiators are US OEM made or China parts store replacements.

 

[REDWOLF]

Anyone have the dormans numbers handy in case I decide to go that rout.

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[Freeland]

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...86/chevrolet/k30-pickup-4wd?q=Oil+Cooler+Hose

[h=2]Dorman OE Solutions Engine Oil Cooler Hose Assembly[/h][FONT=Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]pn. 625-155

[/FONT][h=2]Dorman OE Solutions Engine Oil Cooler Hose Assembly[/h]pn. 625-154

 

[Matt5]

I would get good custom lines made, I have a set of domans, my neighbor bought a set of ac delcos... both were junk he put his in because he needed them mine are never going in. Light weight junk.

Also adding a external cooler would require a bypass with thermostat... as you can over cool the fluid in the winter depending on location.

 

[nyoffroad]

I bought a set of AC Delco off of Amazon and was surprised to find "made in China" stickers on them next to the AC Delco, could've gotten the cheap china no name for half price. I do have to admit that the fit wasn't bad, it did take a bit of tweking but NO LEAKS!

 

[cucvrus]

I bought a set of AC Delco off of Amazon and was surprised to find "made in China" stickers on them next to the AC Delco, could've gotten the cheap china no name for half price. I do have to admit that the fit wasn't bad, it did take a bit of tweking but NO LEAKS!

Just keep in mind. They were "Made in China" but it was "Mainland China".