What’s the current status? My $0.02 worth is this: First try to determine what caused that cover to crack and rectify that. Second, replacing the cover is your best course of action followed by TIG welding. JB Weld is nothing more than a cheap bandaid. Will be interested in how it turns out.
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Oil leak on front of engine
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Well I really believe in prevention
So take the 30 year old rubber out and bolt the fan to the hub.
We already know what cracks the cover
Jb weld works and work really well.
Some of us cannot afford those really high dollar fixes
So we come up with other solutions.
I do have to say his is the worst I've seen
Most of the time it's a 1 inch crack
So take the 30 year old rubber out and bolt the fan to the hub.
We already know what cracks the cover
Jb weld works and work really well.
Some of us cannot afford those really high dollar fixes
So we come up with other solutions.
I do have to say his is the worst I've seen
Most of the time it's a 1 inch crack
Why do those covers crack? I clearly understand the challenge of coughing up money for parts & repairs. But I also know that it costs way more to replace or repair even more expensive parts that could break if that simple issue isn’t properly fixed now.
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It is almost 100% confirmed anecdotally that the three bolt bracket on the rear of the compressor/hyd pump tandem unit comes loose and this leaves it all hanging off the aluminum timing cover. Now how that comes loose (driveline vibration, engine vibration etc) is a debatable question. But I take each fastener loose and add loctite and reinstall.
Crazyls2
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That is exactly what happens. My friend is a mechanical engineer and we were trying to figure out what had happened and he looked at the massive weight (pumps) and said there is no way that plate can hold that much weight. We started looking and noticed the bracket and like most everyone else's the bolts had come loose. When I told him I wanted to have someone come out and fill the Crack he explained JB Weld was probably a more safe option to try first because of the potential for the aluminum warping. We had a long conversation about it yesterday and he said several times we should make one more effort to use JB Weld. He explained to me he was of the opinion in some cases it could hold up better than welding. I am willing to try.
Crazyls2
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Replacing that cover is no min
Is it possible this came out of the fan?
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coachgeo
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One fellow in here if recall right had that section completely break off. He had a welder repair it. Apparently a realllll good welder.
Crazyls2
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We are saving that for our last option. It hasn't been ruled out but we are hoping to avoid it
coachgeo
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welding aluminum can be tricky. Clamping the cover to a flat surplus would keep it from distortion due to heat. Just like the Liberty Bell repair; drill a hole at the inboard end of the crack to keep it from cracking further in to the cover. Tack welding the two ends of the crack and letting it cool before “spot tacking” the rest also prevents excessive heat buildup which is the culprit to warping.
Not trying to beat a dead horse here; I’m not a fan of JB Weld. You might be better off using the alumina welder rod that melts with a MAPP gas torch than fighting with JB Weld.
Regardless of what you use - you will need a very clean surface to get a good bond.
Is this fan from a MTV, 5 ton? Like a M1083A1?
coachgeo
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that is an FMTV fan with 3116.. NOT the newer fan for later engines and do NOT think those had a rubber in them at all as stated in the video
I need to see what my fan is. I did notice a crack at the end of one of the fan blades.
Crazyls2
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This answered a lot of questions for me. Thank you
coachgeo
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Thank Ron not me.
Crazyls2
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Thanks Ron