Oil on spark plug...

[Athanasios]

just bought them....ready to use in the veteran engine ''Gold Comet''.

 

[porkysplace]

So do you have a problem with bad rings or worn valve guides ?
Not much information in your post as to why you would want to use them .
They are a temporary fix at best .

 

[Athanasios]

So do you have a problem with bad rings or worn valve guides ?
Not much information in your post as to why you would want to use them .
They are a temporary fix at best .

this engine needs to rebuild...its very old and tired so...i think its the best way to keep this running a little bit more

 

[M543A2]

Have you investigated the cause of the fouling? It may be just valve seals which can be rather easily replaced without removing the head. Valve seal leakage is usually indicated by oil smoke for a short time after starting, then clearing. Have you run a compression/leak-down test to check the health of the piston rings and valve sealing? If you find problems there then you are in for a lot of work you might delay with these plug anti-foulers. The problem I saw with them in an Allis-Chalmers WD-45 was that power went down due to the small hole and delay for air/fuel mix to get to the plug for ignition, then out into the cylinder.
To run civilian wires with the military cap in place, I have taken civilian spark wires and cut off the metal wire end connector projection that fits into the distributor that has the spring clips beyond the clamped portion that holds it to the wire. With a distributor cap wire boot like used on Mopar distributors in the 60's and 70's distributors on the end of the wire it can be inserted all the way down into the socket on the military distributor and the boot will fit nicely over the threaded portion where the military wire nut was attached. This way you can convert to civilian spark wires and use hotter civilian plugs to help cure the fouling problem. Not to mention that the civilian plugs are much cheaper!

 

[Athanasios]

Have you investigated the cause of the fouling? It may be just valve seals which can be rather easily replaced without removing the head. Valve seal leakage is usually indicated by oil smoke for a short time after starting, then clearing. Have you run a compression/leak-down test to check the health of the piston rings and valve sealing? If you find problems there then you are in for a lot of work you might delay with these plug anti-foulers. The problem I saw with them in an Allis-Chalmers WD-45 was that power went down due to the small hole and delay for air/fuel mix to get to the plug for ignition, then out into the cylinder.
To run civilian wires with the military cap in place, I have taken civilian spark wires and cut off the metal wire end connector projection that fits into the distributor that has the spring clips beyond the clamped portion that holds it to the wire. With a distributor cap wire boot like used on Mopar distributors in the 60's and 70's distributors on the end of the wire it can be inserted all the way down into the socket on the military distributor and the boot will fit nicely over the threaded portion where the military wire nut was attached. This way you can convert to civilian spark wires and use hotter civilian plugs to help cure the fouling problem. Not to mention that the civilian plugs are much cheaper!

Not yet, i didnt invastigate the main problem maybe the oil rings i think..there is no blue smoke after starting...but until to find enough time to find the cause of oil burning i think its a good way to keep this old engine running.the spark plugs are not cold or hot..but in the middle...i tried cold ones AUTOLITE 2243...but the same problem..after 10miles...the engine start to have not enough power and ''coughing''..with backfires in all range of RPM...not only in low RPM....I tried hotter spark plugs but the same...this vehicle its one of the oldest and rare in service...in greek army..we took them in 1970...straight from vietnam...its a M 109 van shop 2 1/2 m49 CHASSIS the programm of rebuilding stopped in the middle 80ies.. in some of them changed the engine with steyr diesel engines.. .it never goes anywhere until we are in some kind of... war......I WIIL TRY to work in your suggestion....also i have some rare TM's for 5ton and 2 1/2 gasoline engines if you are intersting ...tell me.first i have to convert these in pdf file....

 

[Jeepsinker]

Sounds like bad points or condenser to me, not spark plugs.

 

[Athanasios]

I replaced the 3 condensers and the resistance.the engine works fine until in spark plugs the oil apears.chech my video /watch?v=7Qv-ti4O2nU

 

[Eliteweapons]

I am not familiar with that particular engine but a coil going bad could also cause some of those symptoms in a gas engine.

 

[Athanasios]

I am not familiar with that particular engine but a coil going bad could also cause some of those symptoms in a gas engine.

also i chanched the coil

 

[M35a2duece]

You check the points by measuring the gap, or using a dwell meter?

 

[Athanasios]

the points are brand new and 0.22 inch the gap.

 

[Eliteweapons]

You could also try a Crane Hi-6 box. I have used them on several motors and helped them run much better and get better gas mileage. The hotter multiple sparks should help keep the plugs clean.

 

[Athanasios]

by measuring the gap.

 

[Athanasios]

i wiil check this .very intersting

 

[Athanasios]

Have you investigated the cause of the fouling? It may be just valve seals which can be rather easily replaced without removing the head. Valve seal leakage is usually indicated by oil smoke for a short time after starting, then clearing. Have you run a compression/leak-down test to check the health of the piston rings and valve sealing? If you find problems there then you are in for a lot of work you might delay with these plug anti-foulers. The problem I saw with them in an Allis-Chalmers WD-45 was that power went down due to the small hole and delay for air/fuel mix to get to the plug for ignition, then out into the cylinder.
To run civilian wires with the military cap in place, I have taken civilian spark wires and cut off the metal wire end connector projection that fits into the distributor that has the spring clips beyond the clamped portion that holds it to the wire. With a distributor cap wire boot like used on Mopar distributors in the 60's and 70's distributors on the end of the wire it can be inserted all the way down into the socket on the military distributor and the boot will fit nicely over the threaded portion where the military wire nut was attached. This way you can convert to civilian spark wires and use hotter civilian plugs to help cure the fouling problem. Not to mention that the civilian plugs are much cheaper!

yes its true that the engine want some seconds to run with full power with the anti foulers but i didnt notice yet less power.i read in a TM that in old engine colder plugs help and protect from the engien overheating and are stronger in oil fouling it is true?.also i have plenty of Autolite 175 and champion RJ-6 spark plugs.it wiil be safe to use them in this engine?.they fits they dont have the solenoid waterproof tail... but i dont know what going to be withe electricals..