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Oil press in gasser

reom34

Member
191
1
18
Location
Canary Islands- Spain
Hello people.

My m34 when is cold or running hot in high rpm is 60 psi oil press.
When is hot in low rpm is 30 psi oil press.
Is it ok? I think when it is running 45 mph 60 psi is to much, isnt it?

The oil is 20w50

Please let me know yours opinions
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,176
1,603
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
If I remember right, your engine was put together during your rebuild a few years ago? Those psi's sound about right for a fresh engine running 20W-50. Why so thick? The manual calls for straight 30 or 10W-30 if I remember right.

I have 10W-40 diesel Rotella in mine with a pretty fresh engine as well. 30-45 cold at idle and 30-45 hot at speed is what I get.
 

reom34

Member
191
1
18
Location
Canary Islands- Spain
If I remember right, your engine was put together during your rebuild a few years ago? Those psi's sound about right for a fresh engine running 20W-50. Why so thick? The manual calls for straight 30 or 10W-30 if I remember right.

I have 10W-40 diesel Rotella in mine with a pretty fresh engine as well. 30-45 cold at idle and 30-45 hot at speed is what I get.
Thanks for your help.
My question is if is a right oil press 60 psi or more always because when the truck is in the high way is allways 60 psi.Never less only when you stop, then it will be 30 psi.
And yes it is a fresh engine.

Thanks
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Yes, higher RPMs=higher pressure, you should be fine.

You didn't answer why you use an oil that is so thick though.
 

reom34

Member
191
1
18
Location
Canary Islands- Spain
Hi people.
the oil 20w50 was change this morning for 10w30.
After 25 km the oil press was 60 psi and whit the engine hot was 30 psi.
Same psi with 20w50 .
Next step change oil filter and gauge with diferent sender
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,176
1,603
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Do you still have the stock remote filter? If the filter is clogged, the oil will just bypass it. That block on the passenger side of the engine where the oil filter hoses go also redirects oil back to the pan if the filter isn't taking anymore. I would suggest pulling that block off and making sure there is a path to the pan open.

I got my Gasser from a guy that rebuilt the engine 30 years ago then let it sit without ever firing it up. The filter and hoses were not installed when I got it home the first time. I pulled the spark plugs, put some oil down the cylinders, put a mechanical psi gauge on in place of the stock sender since I had no wiring, added the 8 or 9 quarts of oil it calls for and tried to turn the engine over by hand. It did so I hooked up some batteries and had my son watch the gauge on the side of the engine while I pushed the starter pedal inside. R...r...r....r....r..., I let it spin while I counted to 10. I stopped and asked Colton if the gauge moved. He said it hadn't but oil was coming out. I had cobbled together a mechanical sender, some line and an old gauge out of stuff sitting around and figured the line was seeping some. I told him to keep watching and hit the pedal for another 10 count. I asked if the gauge had moved and he said no. He added it was leaking a lot and I should come look.

I crawled out thinking it was a waste of time to see oil leaking from a fitting. Instead, I saw a huge puddle on the ground of nice new golden colored oil and a huge path on the side of the block. It turns out the builder had put duct tape over the port where the block goes and then painted it with the engine. I didn't know it was there. I had no oil psi because that 1/2 inch passage of pressurized oil was flowing right out onto the ground. I took the proper block off my parts truck engine and with a filter hooked up have had the pressures mentioned a few post up ever since.

I have the engine build TM at home and will try to find it. I don't think there is a oil psi relief valve on this engine to be sticking on you. Just the bypass filter block as already mentioned.
 
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