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Oil pressure drops when engine warms up.

HQ-88

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I just got my WC-54 put back together, and I have been having a problem with the oil pressure. I did not have the engine rebuilt, as I was informed it checked out OK by the previous owner. The truck burns a little oil, but nothing too bad, so I know the engine has some wear on it. Still has plenty of power though. The problem I am having is that when I start the truck cold, oil pressure seems good at about 35-40PSI. But as the truck warms up, oil pressure drops to almost 0PSI at idle. I have changed the oil and filter, running 10W30. I truck is not tuned correctly, so she is running real rough at idle, though im not sure that would be enough to cause this drop. I have had the pan pulled off, and cleaned all out. Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks,
Mitch.
 

PareoWC

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HQ- your motor is tired. Great oil pressure becuase the oil is thicker when cold. Warm oil thins out, therefore drops your pressure (viscosity). Consider running a heavier oil, but the real answer is to rebuild the motor. :wink:
 

HQ-88

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I will try another gauge to just be sure. How extensive of a rebuild should I preform. Also, since rebuilding is not a viable option at the moment, could any damage be caused by continuing to run the engine.
 

clinto

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I will try another gauge to just be sure.
If your current guage is mechanical, don't get your hopes up. You absolutely should check the pressure with a 2nd gauge, but don't expect much difference.

How extensive of a rebuild should I preform.
What you need to do is have a machine shop check the crankshaft, they can tell you if it is worn out enough to need to be turned undersize to get back to a smooth, round shape. Sometimes, you get lucky and the crank journals are in very good shape and you can simply install new bearings. But unless you are a machinist with the knowledge of what to look for and how to measure it, you'll be taking the crank to a machine shop.

What you're going to need to do is get new main, rod and cam bearings in it. That involves the aforementioned crank measuring and either polishing or machining. Depending upon the condition of the camshaft, you may need to replace it.

The problem with only doing that is that it's insane. Pulling the engine out and disassembling it and only fixing the oil pressure related issues is crazy. While you're in there, now is the time to fix the oil consumption issues (pistons, rings, bores, etc.). Now is the time to vat the engine and have it cleaned and detail it. Now is the time to replace all the freeze plugs. Now is the time to replace the oil pump.

I completely understand budgetary constraints: I have a project that's been sitting for a year with no movement because I just don't have the $5K to rebuild/replace the engine with a new one. But I'm not going to reassemble the vehicle with a worn out engine so it'll sit until I make enough money to do it right or I luck into a deal on an engine.

Also, since rebuilding is not a viable option at the moment, could any damage be caused by continuing to run the engine.
If the pressure is really that low, then you aren't getting enough pressure to "float" the crank (google hydrodynamic wedge). At best, you score the heck out of the crank journals. At worst, it spins a bearing and ruins the crank and the block.
 

HQ-88

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I am using a mechanical guage. I will recheck oil pressure with another and see where she's at. I agree, a full rebuild would only make sense, if the engine is indeed worn out. As stated, better to have a shop do the work.
 

tankdriver

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For what it is worth, the manual says 30 to 50 OVER 30 mph. I have seen some really low at idle. Also single weight oil will thin as it gets hot. I have seen somewhere that down to 8 is OK at idle. But can't find it now. I'll keep looking.....
 
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