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Ok I bought it, now for the fun......

GFB

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Location
Northwest IN
Truck (M1009) runs out great for the most part. I did notice the crank pulley "wobbling" this morning. I guess it's time for a damper. I was wondering how the heck PFC Snuffy managed to bend the crank pulley until I read a damper thread.

Trans doesn't want to shift into third until 40-45 mph. I'll do a fluid and filter change. I suppose I'll check the vacuum pump too, but I didn't see a vacuum line going to the trans. This is my first auto tranny I've owned so pardon my ignorance in that area.

Slight vibration, feels like driveshaft. U joints feel tight. After reading horror stores about forklifts I better check into it more. Truck was purchased and titled by previous owner but not drove much.

Changed glow plugs this morning and starts great now, but I don't have any "wait to start" light. Maybe just a bad bulb? Where is it exactly in the cluster?

Thanks for the help guys. I've tried searching for most of this stuff and I think I've got a good general idea on what to troubleshoot. Just have to find the time. I'll get around to reading the PMCS and maintenance pubs when I get a chance too.

Radiator also developed a small leak while driving today too. I guess that will make the damper change a little easier. ;) Hopefully it isn't rotted to the point it will need a new core.
 

Capt.Marion

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Check out JATonka's website for all the CUCV manuals. One (I'm thinking the -20) has a good troubleshooting section that should help you with your transmission question. It should also have wiring diagrams which will help you with your glowplug woes.

Have fun!
 

davey8943

Member
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Location
Columbus IN
GFB,

WELCOME to SS!

I'm not sure where in Indiana you are, but I am in Columbus ('bout half way between Indy and L'ville).

Your vibration could easily be the vibration damper (bent pulley)... That is unless it only shows up at a certain road speed. If it is tied to engine speed, I would put money on a damper.

Capt.Marion is right on about the troubleshooting manual. I wish GM / Chrysler / ETC would release this amount of detail about EVERY car they produce!

If you are close (and into off roading), maybe you should think about doing the HASPIN trip. Just type it into the search bar in the upper right corner and hit "go". You will be AMAZED at what these guys (myself included :D) get into with army trucks!

In any case, welcome aboard!

Dave
 

sarge1

New member
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Location
MO.
Does your trans shift hard into all gears? If so, check the simple things first. After looking around for about 5 minutes, I realized mine was doing that because the vacuum hose at the top of my engine was being bent nearly straight over because of how it was running in relation to the air filter housing. Unkinked it and it shifts like a champ. It's amazing what something that simple can do to the shifting.
 

Warthog

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I'll get around to reading the PMCS and maintenance pubs when I get a chance too.
Welcome to the site.

Reading the TM 9-2320-289-10 Operator Manual should be the FIRST THING you do before jumping into the truck and heading down the highway.

It covers the basic operation of the truck and what all the lights and switches do.

Do you know about the Blackout and Service light switch and what they do?

Did you know that you have no brake lights unless you trun the switch on?

Just a few of the thing you need to know and will learn as you get used to the truck
 
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GFB

Member
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Location
Northwest IN
Slow day at work today. Got the -10 read and parts of the -20 that concern my problems. Time to crawl back under the hood.
 

DonK

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Welcome from another newb....The WAIT light is in the top center on the instrument cluster in a small rectangular box....it's the one on the left when looking at it, wired separatly from all other instrument lights except the one next to it.
 

DonK

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BTW...the old timers are right [thumbzup] do yourself a favor a download the 900 page manual. It has more info than you can imagine, all good stuff.
 

Warthog

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Now that you have downloaded and started reading the manuals, here are some steps to get started with.

The transmission is controlled by vacuum from the engine. Diesel engine don't produce vacuum by design, so a vacuum pump is added. On the CUCVs it is in the place a distributor would be in a gasser. This pump is plumbed to a valve on the side of the injector pump and then routed to the modulator on the side of the tranny. Some of the line is metal but alot of it is rubber. The rubber breaks down with heat and time. The majority of the time just replcing the rubber will solve the shifting problems. If not the the -20 has a section on how to test the vacuum and adjust the valve.

One of the first things I like to do with the CUCVs is to remove all the fuses from the fuse box and clean the contacts with Elecrtical Contact Cleaner and some sandpaper if needed (disconnect batteries and make a map/picture of where all the fuses go.

Also the instrument cluster is prone to corrosion buildup on the printer circuit board. At some point you will want to remove it and clean everything.

As a matter of fact, all electrical connections should be removed and cleaned, expecially the battery cables and grounds.

More than likely the wait light is a bad bulb, but it could be a problem with the GlowPlug system.

Until you know what has been done to your truck and what condition everything is in, you will be playing a guessing game each time you work on it.

When you go to the store to buy parts, ask for a 1984 K5 Blazer with the diesel engine. That will cover the majority of the drivetrain. For the engine ask for parts from a 1984 K30 with the J-code engine.
 

GFB

Member
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Location
Northwest IN
Thanks. I pulled the radiator last night and was going to take it to the local shop, but I found some ATF in the coolant. Not a ton, but maybe 1/2 cup out of the few gallons that emptied out of the radiator. I suppose the tranny cooler is leaking into the tank, so it probably needs replaced rather than repaired. :x. Advance auto lists a radiator with both oil and tranny coolers (for a blazer with 6.2). This should work, right?
 

Warthog

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These trucks have lived a hard life. The radiator is one of the mistreated items.


The CUCVs use a differnt style radiator because the oil and tranny tanks have switched sides. (if you look, the lines crisscross the engine)

The original GM parts number is : GM 3058966 wihich translates to NAPA - NR 2098

Since you didn't list the Advanced number, you will have to double check.

Here are a couple of links with the radiator numbers

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/49659-radiator.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/16209-where-can-i-get-radiator-replacement.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/59551-radiator-replacement.html
 
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