As some know im working on my deuce with a new powerplant, new clutch came in wed of this past week, just trying to track down either an old input shaft or alignment tool to get that back together, I have called a nearby place which the guy only works on heavy stuff, dozers, dumptrucks so im hoping he might have an input shaft available from an old tranny, so far thats the update on how the repower is going, slow but surely, also there is new paint on the flywheel of the new engine, do i need to sandpaper that of or does it need to be removed, will it wearing off be okay?
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old input shaft or alignment tool
- Thread starter Wyattearp
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- gainesville, ga.
you need to get that paint off, mek from the paint store should work
- 12,196
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- gainesville, ga.
yes and no, its a STRONG paint solvent, works great for clean up, degreasing, it will burn you if you leave it on you to long, zilapene (not spelled right) does the same, you dont want to breath in the fumes, this stuff will really stone you
Polverone
Active member
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Hi James,
Ok now you're finally playing in my court. I have been custom painting cars since 1966.
Ron is very correct. Yes, MEK is very strong solvent and will remove paint along with nosehair. But! Use this to remove the paint from the flywheel only! It will take a long time to "remove" the paint on the body and you will go through a million rags and gallons of MEK. Plus it will leave streaks where you didn't wipe all of it off.
This is gettting off the thread a bit but here goes:
This is not the way to remove paint from the body of the truck.
The best way to remove paint from the fenders, hood, chassis, etc. is to have the parts media blasted as it removes any and all rust along with the paint.
If that is not an option, a good DA sander and lots of sandpaper to get the most of it and a grinder or needle scaler to remove rust. Be careful with the needle scaler as it will puncture the metal if the rust is bad. But then you have to patch that area with sheet metal anyay.
Muriatic (swimming pool) acid is also useful to remove rust. Just brush on and then flush with water. Be careful of this stuff as well, it will "fry" the nosehairs as well. Stay upwind or wear a respirator. Make sure you dry it real good then prime the bare metal before the elements have a chance to oxidise the surface again. On another short note, if any parts are aluminum, you can use Acetic Acid (Vinegar) to prepare the metal and remove contaminants (finger print oils for one).
Ok I'll quit here as this is getting into the Paint and Bodywork category.
- 12,196
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- gainesville, ga.
thanks gary, i learned a bunch from your post, ron
Thanks Gary for the info, yeah i like my nosehairs right where their at, i have talked to a local guy that does paint jobs, he told me 40grit, then 80grit sandpaper, also told me a paint primer its called 36K which can me colored, the 2K primer cannot be colored, but im probably getting ahead of myself since i need to get new engine in first LOL...
But the info is welcomed no matter what forum it comes from or the source.
Thanks G.
But the info is welcomed no matter what forum it comes from or the source.
Thanks G.
Well just got the pressure plate cleaned up from the oil and grease that was on the plate face that contacts the clutch, lithium greased the hinged fingers so im good to go there.
Primered my glad hand covers and they should be ready to repaint here anytime now. So much to do and don't really know where to start first LOL
Primered my glad hand covers and they should be ready to repaint here anytime now. So much to do and don't really know where to start first LOL
Polverone
Active member
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James,
Sounds like you got a handle on where your headed. You'll get there eventually.
I had a High School reunion last night and this am I took an old high school buddy, who was in town for the event, to breakfast in the Duece. Got back to the shop and when I got out........
Ya know that unmistakable smell of gear oil?...........YUP!
Left Front Duals axle. Nice spray around the inside perimeter of inside wheel and on bottom of cargo bed.
Crap!
I just checked in the search feature and found a few posts. Looks like I'll be repairing some stuff too. Glad the site is back up for reference. Great testimonial to what we're about and doing here.
Baptism by fire..........here we go.
I agree Gary, lets just say im a determined fart LOL, i am doing some experimenting with my front turn signal brackets for painting, decided what the heck so i primered one to see just whats going to happen if im unable to get this blue paint off, not sure what kind of paint they used but this primer is sticking like glue to it, got my fingers crossed.
I picked up some brakkleen from walmart today and cleaned up that pressure plate, did some work on the wiring harness on one of my turn signal lights with some liquid rubber, so far looking good. baby steps, baby steps is about it for right now.
I picked up some brakkleen from walmart today and cleaned up that pressure plate, did some work on the wiring harness on one of my turn signal lights with some liquid rubber, so far looking good. baby steps, baby steps is about it for right now.
sorry to hear about your axle, sounds like a seal went on ya. By the time my truck is completely gone over it will be middle of next year since fall and winter is coming on soon, but it will get done if not before my projected time of say June 06.
Then its on to the mustang.... my dad is wanting me to fix it so he can drive it LOL...
Then its on to the mustang.... my dad is wanting me to fix it so he can drive it LOL...
mangus580
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For your input shaft / alignment tool, find a mahchine shop. Measure the ID of the pilot bearing/bushing, and the 'minor' ID of the clutch spline... have them turn out a tool for you... you dont need the spline for a lineup tool...
btw... recovry4x4 has one...
btw... recovry4x4 has one...
thanks mangus im going to call the guy tomorrow thats near me, he may have a tool available i can borrow, say recovry has a alignment tool.
PM me if you want on this...
Oh by the way i posted pics of the repainted gladhand covers and my test primer on the turn signal bracket in the paint forum for anyone wanting to see pics, we all love pics no matter how little they are LOL
PM me if you want on this...
Oh by the way i posted pics of the repainted gladhand covers and my test primer on the turn signal bracket in the paint forum for anyone wanting to see pics, we all love pics no matter how little they are LOL
rdixiemiller
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Send me the dimensions and I'll knock out an alignment tool. Probably take 10-15 minutes or so.
- 12,196
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- gainesville, ga.
at napa thuck parts thay had on the wall every dummy shaft that you could want, the deuce input shaft is the small one with the 2" being the big one, the price was about $8.00, hope this helps
seems that most places around here don't carry this stuff much anymore, older trannys have come and gone and so have the tools of the trade, rdixiemiller is turning me one out and mailing it to me this week so all should be fine, this helps me out since i do have another ldt engine that im going to go through and later on will be rebuilding a lds engine that i have.
Well as of Friday if i remember correctly, the shaft that rdixiemiller turned for me showed up in the mail, Thank you again Robert. Picked up scotch brite pads as some had suggested to get rid of the surface rust on the splines and throwout bearing where my tranny sweated(live and learn right) won't happen again i asure you that. Next step clean up the surface rust, remove paint from new engine flywheel and go from there.
rdixiemiller
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Glad I could help. Now to get redevildudes finished.....