ON BOARD AIR?

[NDT]

Is this bracket also for the Thomas compressor? My GMV has the compressor mounted like in the picture on post #3. This picture is from a 1995 GMV that some dipsh-t is making into an electric hummer on Youtube. This bracket allows you to keep the ws washer reservoir.

 

[nikojo]

I repurposed an AC compressor on a land rover that went to a tank. Was easy to set up but no AC. You had to oil it every once in a while too.

As others pointed out, was faster than most air compressors but still underpowered for impact wrenches. I've also had the oasis compressors (similar to outback). Similar challenges and limitations but nice because portable.

I now use a tank. It's portable so I throw it any vehicle I'm taking long distance. Runs impact wrench to take lug nuts off instantly and even airs up air bladder I use as a 'jack' to lift any vehicle. I haven't used my tank other than some slow leak tires on my wife's car over 3 years and it's still fully powered. I would say more reliable than anything 'powered'. You do have to find a way to stow it.

If you aren't going to use it for CTIS or air horns, I would suggest if you are using an electric unit to keep it 'portable' rather than built into truck. Find a nice 'case' for it......maybe a military type case, and bolt it in. Maybe something with space for an impact gun and air hose. If using 24V you can splice a cable that plugs into NATO plug. This is something I may do just for fun. If the case is weather proof you can even secure it in the bed for when needed.

 

[Crapgame]

Is this bracket also for the Thomas compressor? My GMV has the compressor mounted like in the picture on post #3. This picture is from a 1995 GMV that some dipsh-t is making into an electric hummer on Youtube. This bracket allows you to keep the ws washer reservoir.

Yes sir that's the H1 style compressor shelf. One of my original GMVs came with it. Another fellow made copies. If the Tuber is willing to sell it at a price that is acceptable, go for it. I think even the aluminum plate copies were a few hundred bucks. Here's most of the air compressor plumbing used on the GMVs minus the female outlet for the coiled air hose. The Parts TM plumbing diagram is for a later M1165A1WB3 based GMV, the suction hose ties into the turbo air horn hose; the A2 suction hose has a brass hose fitting threaded into the air filter housing.

 

[Mainsail]

If you were feeling creative, you might shuck all the plastic off one of these (Harbor Freight), and work out some way to mount it. If you watch the sales you might be able to get it down around $100 or so. Maybe not for heavy duty use, but it should be able to air up a tire or two.

 

[thoner7]

Feel free to call me an idiot but wouldn’t something like this work?

https://www.northerntool.com/products/klutch-12-volt-heavy-duty-portable-tire-inflator-120-max-psi-2-1-cfm-52509?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&utm_source=Google_LIA&utm_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Air%20Compressors%20%3E%20Tire%20Inflators&utm_campaign=Klutch&utm_content=52509&ogmap=SHP%7CLIA%7CGOOG%7CSTND%7Cm%7CSITEWIDE%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C19579529940%7C144619370159&gclid=CjwKCAjw6vyiBhB_EiwAQJRoppa1FKTxy-mqLc9_rPuSAIyO_scLYJuFEgir4mc1x11C29Lugji0hxoCGr0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[rolling18]

Believe it or not, but thanks to a member on here, I have ditched all my "on-board" air equipment $old it$ on my rigs, and have went to a C02 power tank type setup!! not only is it MUCH FASTER (45cfm) it can run air tools, blow guns and other "Air stuff" and is portable! to share or my other trucks and Dump truck! and all you hear is the air flow NO continous noise

My 10lb setup lasts forever inflating 40" tires lasts e most of a year. super cheap to fill about $20 locally.
I pieced mine together for about $350 total based off the $500 powertank. Yes theirs is "prettier" but I prefer to save the beauty cash!

as a wheeler, I love this setup! and would reccomend it to anyone

 

[Jon knox]

OK so what are you using as an on board air system? 12V or 24V would not matter to me, I actually have some belt driven pumps but I think there are enough belted items tied up to the water pump already.
I would like something with a reservoir and a pressure switch, I see these online running from around seventy five dollars to literally thousands of dollars.
I am assuming anything under a grand (the 5-600 dollar ARP dual compressor for example) are all made in china)
I always thought if someone would take a chainsaw motor and put a dependable compressor on it so a guy could hand carry it around on the ranch, etc. they would sell real well...
So what say you?

Have you given any thought to modifying the air-conditioning compressor to be used as an air compressor I think that can be done fairly cheap but I have no actual experience with that maybe someone else can chime in on that

 

[Mullaney]

Have you given any thought to modifying the air-conditioning compressor to be used as an air compressor I think that can be done fairly cheap but I have no actual experience with that maybe someone else can chime in on that

.
Only concern is how to lubricate the compressor...

Seems like a heck of an idea, but those compressors have freon and compressor oil to keep them from overheating. Maybe somebody else knows more than I about that?

 

[Coug]

.
Only concern is how to lubricate the compressor...

Seems like a heck of an idea, but those compressors have freon and compressor oil to keep them from overheating. Maybe somebody else knows more than I about that?

There are automatic oilers for air systems, as well as filter separators for after the pump to clean up the air (downsides is the ones that will get all the oil mist are expensive, but a cheapert one that gets the majority should be good enough for filling tires)

One system example and more info can be found here:

Dealer installed york ac compressor

Hello ya'll. Long time lurker first time poster. First of all this forum is such a wealth of info, the search feature is most likely the reason I have not yet posted. I have found all that I needed to know there. However this time I could not find what I was searching for. This all started with...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[REF]

Years ago I built an air system from an AC compressor, It worked well but -- I found that I had to use a York Compressor ( it has it's own crank case and oil level) Had to remove the head and drill a drain back hole in the case so it would not pump oil out of the crank case. This was 30 + years ago so Details are now Fuzzy but it did work well but It was a large compressor, heavy brackets took up a lot of room. For the last 10 years I use the CO2 system and love it.

 

[thoner7]

Feel free to call me an idiot but wouldn’t something like this work?

https://www.northerntool.com/products/klutch-12-volt-heavy-duty-portable-tire-inflator-120-max-psi-2-1-cfm-52509?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&utm_source=Google_LIA&utm_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Air%20Compressors%20%3E%20Tire%20Inflators&utm_campaign=Klutch&utm_content=52509&ogmap=SHP%7CLIA%7CGOOG%7CSTND%7Cm%7CSITEWIDE%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C19579529940%7C144619370159&gclid=CjwKCAjw6vyiBhB_EiwAQJRoppa1FKTxy-mqLc9_rPuSAIyO_scLYJuFEgir4mc1x11C29Lugji0hxoCGr0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Hey guys- would the 12v from the dual voltage alternator be enough to power a pump like this? Here’s another brand, but I don’t see anything about amp draw, nor do I know how many amps you could steel off the 12v post.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F9L6HFK/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_TA8W3PN24E5FNDM94F2F?linkCode=ml1&tag=appalachhauna-20#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

 

[Crapgame]

Elaborating on the SF Ground Mobility Vehicle Air Compressor installation, and, 12volt accessories; The GMV had a Square D LBA363206 3 place terminal block bolted to the back wall in the outside compartment under the battery box lid. The 3 places had cables run to the main vehicle ground, to the 24v positive terminal board in the A2 series trucks, and a cable to the rear battery positive terminal.

This terminal block allowed the crews to add 12v and 24v to be easily hardwired to the vehicle. One example being the Dimensions DC to 120VAC inverter mounted on the curbside rear passenger ceiling:


They installed both 12VDC and the 24VDC powered Dimensions inverters on the rear ceiling, with a cable run down the B Pillar into the side battery compartment to a Buss 3475 AML fuse block, protected by a 250amp AML type fuse, then to the Square D LBA363206 Terminal Block.


The black and red wiring for the Thomas 24v 270047 air compressor are connected to the negative ground and 24v lug on the Square D Terminal Block.

These trucks also have an InfiniD 24VDC to 12VDC/24VDC inverter/power distribution box via 24v 2 pin cannon plugs and 12v 4 pin cannon plugs on the back of the box as well as the 12V "cigarette" lighter type outlets on the front.

 

[Crapgame]

The InfiniD 24VDC to 12VDC/24VDC Inverter/Power Distribution Box is run by two Vicor V1-P111-EVV DC/DC 400watt voltage inverters inside, each is circuit breaker protected, with bypass switches on the top.
VICOR VI-P111-EVV DC-DC POWER CONVERTER 24 VOLT INPUT 400 WATT CHASSIS MOUNT | eBay


Some of the electronic components are protected by push button reset circuit breakers installed with the red reset buttons through holes in the battery box side wall, just below the fiberglass cover.

The later M1165A1WB3 Standardized Ground Mobility Vehicles have the same push button circuit breaker protection installed by the Letterkenny Army Depot, home of the GMV program:

This may be helpful to folks installing on board/on demand air systems as well as other electrical accessories while maintaining an original vehicular appearance.

 

[Mogman]

The InfiniD 24VDC to 12VDC/24VDC Inverter/Power Distribution Box is run by two Vicor V1-P111-EVV DC/DC 400watt voltage inverters inside, each is circuit breaker protected, with bypass switches on the top.
VICOR VI-P111-EVV DC-DC POWER CONVERTER 24 VOLT INPUT 400 WATT CHASSIS MOUNT | eBay
View attachment 912101View attachment 912102View attachment 912103View attachment 912104

Some of the electronic components are protected by push button reset circuit breakers installed with the red reset buttons through holes in the battery box side wall, just below the fiberglass cover.
View attachment 912105
The later M1165A1WB3 Standardized Ground Mobility Vehicles have the same push button circuit breaker protection installed by the Letterkenny Army Depot, home of the GMV program:
View attachment 912106View attachment 912107
This may be helpful to folks installing on board/on demand air systems as well as other electrical accessories while maintaining an original vehicular appearance.

Wow those sure are inefficient , 400W in for 300W out or 75% efficient, I guess that is the price you pay for 100% isolation, there must be a large stack of them to make any real power.

 

[Coug]

Hey guys- would the 12v from the dual voltage alternator be enough to power a pump like this? Here’s another brand, but I don’t see anything about amp draw, nor do I know how many amps you could steel off the 12v post.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F9L6HFK/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_TA8W3PN24E5FNDM94F2F?linkCode=ml1&tag=appalachhauna-20#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

To get 12V power you'd either have to wire in a new power outlet off just the rear battery, or pull the passenger seat to access the batteries every time you wanted to use it.

Max power is listed as 540 watts, so on 12V that comes to 45 amps draw.

It's usually considered to not be a good idea to draw more than about 30 amps off the rear battery, but for short periods of time it shouldn't be harmful. The dual voltage regulator can provide a max of 50 amps of 12V, but it's never good to run anything electrical near it's max rating for any length of time. Short periods of usage aren't a problem as you're drawing off the battery more than the regulator, but it still has to recharge, and the lower the battery gets the more stress on the regulator.


If I were to do it for my vehicle and planned to use it frequently, I'd put in an Orion 70 amp converter and a 3rd battery to power anything 12V off of. That way the starting batteries aren't affected. If I had a truck without the dual voltage setup, I would definitely use the above route, especially if I wanted to run anything else 12V on the truck.


EDIT: looking lower on the amazon listing, it does state 45 amps draw

 

[thoner7]

To get 12V power you'd either have to wire in a new power outlet off just the rear battery, or pull the passenger seat to access the batteries every time you wanted to use it.

Max power is listed as 540 watts, so on 12V that comes to 45 amps draw.

It's usually considered to not be a good idea to draw more than about 30 amps off the rear battery, but for short periods of time it shouldn't be harmful. The dual voltage regulator can provide a max of 50 amps of 12V, but it's never good to run anything electrical near it's max rating for any length of time. Short periods of usage aren't a problem as you're drawing off the battery more than the regulator, but it still has to recharge, and the lower the battery gets the more stress on the regulator.


If I were to do it for my vehicle and planned to use it frequently, I'd put in an Orion 70 amp converter and a 3rd battery to power anything 12V off of. That way the starting batteries aren't affected. If I had a truck without the dual voltage setup, I would definitely use the above route, especially if I wanted to run anything else 12V on the truck.


EDIT: looking lower on the amazon listing, it does state 45 amps draw

I do have a good Orion unit already. But no (third)12v battery.

So pulling 45 amps off the regulator is a bad idea. But pulling 45 off the Orion unit should be ok even without a battery for storage right?? It’s rated for 70 like you said.

Ps I’m thinking this would be for airing up tires. So it might run for 15-20 mins?

 

[Coug]

I do have a good Orion unit already. But no (third)12v battery.

So pulling 45 amps off the regulator is a bad idea. But pulling 45 off the Orion unit should be ok even without a battery for storage right?? It’s rated for 70 like you said.

Ps I’m thinking this would be for airing up tires. So it might run for 15-20 mins?

Short answer is no, you need a battery.


Longer answer:
That 45 amps likely doesn't any electrical surge at startup into account, as it's momentary, but it's unlikely the Orion is designed to handle that type of momentary power spike. Part of the reason you hook an air compressor like this directly to the battery is it can handle power fluctuations much better than any converter or regulator.
DC motors aren't typically as bad as AC motors, but AC motors can have 5 times or more startup current demand than running. The demand is extremely short so it doesn't affect standard circuit breakers or wiring, but it still has to be accounted for in the supply. DC is less, and if the motor has a smart controller in it the startup can be spread over a longer period of time for a slower startup, but it's still there. I wouldn't expect a cheap compressor that's designed to be directly connected to a battery to have any controls like that built in.

In your case, the compressor is also going to be starting against partially inflated tires, so there is already some resistance in the system (or will be very quickly as soon as it builds up to whatever pressure is on the other side of the check valve if it has one)

 

[thoner7]

Short answer is no, you need a battery.


Longer answer:
That 45 amps likely doesn't any electrical surge at startup into account, as it's momentary, but it's unlikely the Orion is designed to handle that type of momentary power spike. Part of the reason you hook an air compressor like this directly to the battery is it can handle power fluctuations much better than any converter or regulator.
DC motors aren't typically as bad as AC motors, but AC motors can have 5 times or more startup current demand than running. The demand is extremely short so it doesn't affect standard circuit breakers or wiring, but it still has to be accounted for in the supply. DC is less, and if the motor has a smart controller in it the startup can be spread over a longer period of time for a slower startup, but it's still there. I wouldn't expect a cheap compressor that's designed to be directly connected to a battery to have any controls like that built in.

In your case, the compressor is also going to be starting against partially inflated tires, so there is already some resistance in the system (or will be very quickly as soon as it builds up to whatever pressure is on the other side of the check valve if it has one)

Well dang.

Do you think a small motorcycle battery would be enough? I have one of those laying in the shed.

This is the only load it would have.

 

[Mainsail]

Well dang.

Do you think a small motorcycle battery would be enough? I have one of those laying in the shed.

This is the only load it would have.

Why so fixated on running a 12V compressor? There are numerous 24V compressors in the same price range that are lower risk to your electrics and don't require so much effort.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Lead acid batteries have two states of charge. Charged and discharging. Not too good at storage. Ninth grade auto shop 101 teacher notes. Fifty five years ago, still true today, lol.

In the storage shed...dead, CAMO