Hi
It looks good but you have the wrong base for the driver seat and you need to upgrade your wheels from the 8 lug around the outside of rim to at least 12 lug
24 lug looks the best of course
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Understood. It will take months if not years to get this vehicle exactly where I want it. In the meantime, I see where I can use steel cables at all 4 corners to lock down the seat position so that it is safe in a crash. I agree with your concerned about the seat and I was planning on addressing this important issue.
I will be looking for new rims and rubber this month. I am certain that it will not be cheap.
The deep ford dipsticks both have a rubber O-ring at the base. Since the proper tubes are already installed i would assume the seals should be in place as well. I'd pull them and check anyway, just in case. Never take anything for granted. The deep ford CDR valve is different with extra venting. The power steering pump also has a vented cap. Check out TM 9-2320-280-20-3 chapter 12. I have NOS CDR valve, vented power steering cap, and cabin selector valve if you're in need.
thanks! Most likely I will be in touch but not for some time because there are so many other things I need to do. I would "like" the water fording kit however I "need" to repair things like the power steering first.
Dude! His truck is amazing! There is always going to be someone that Nit-Pics something.... Again your truck is amazing.
Thanks! I appreciate your standing up for me and my vehicle. I understood that tomcata3 was talking to the FNG about safety, and given I'm so new here, his input as well as yours is much appreciated.
In all fairness to what Tomcat posted, I would say that what was mentioned was more of a safety issue than anything.
- While it wouldn't be the first time that I've seen a high-back seat rigged up to a springer frame, you can bet that it's attached in likely a half-ass manner. If something happens during a sudden maneuver or stop and the seat base detaches from the seat frame, that's not necessarily a good thing.
- Regarding the wheels. We all know how old those tires and wheels are. It would be a good idea to replace the tires anyway simply due to age and go for the added safety factor of the 12 bolt wheels with rubber runflat while he's at it versus the 8 bolt wheels and the magnesium runflats.
Agreed. I think tomcata3 brought up some very good points. I also agree that old tires need to be changed although I do not see any signs of rot or cracking on my current set. Once I have the car on the road I will be asking you guys about preferred tires that will endure mostly city driving but will occasionally go off road and perhaps see snow in the winter and mud all year long.
Right now, after some paperwork in the office, I am planning on quickly re-aligning my passenger rear door which is set up too far from the "B" pillar and is hitting the back improperly, damaging the rear door portal. Eventually I will also have to replace all of the rubber door weather stripping at the edges because my doors are rattling. I guess I will also have to re-adjust the striker mechanisms.
Thanks again to all of you guys,
T