OOPs I think I just bought the wrong motors.

[forklift]

I bought two engines thinking they where for a duece, and Iwas looking at the pictures and noticed writing on one container that looks to say 5ton. can you tell buy looking. I'll add pictures and try a link.

http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=871776

http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=871778

I just noticed that one of them said lds-465. They don't look any different to me. Anyways. the reason I bought them was because my truck is non turbo and to buy parts to convert wasn't much less than whole engnes. I was hoping someone could tell me how I could run these in the container. The condition codes are H7 and F7. I don't know how thorough they are when they check these, but I get the impression that if they can't turn a key and start it...it's junk. I'm thinking if one runs good, I might rather swap engines than try messing with mine. I would hate to screw mine up.

 

[cranetruck]

The turbo(s) may be good. Just use one of them for your deuce. You will need a new exhaust system in any case.

 

[emmado22]

That looks like a Condition Code B to me written on the can... Used but serviceable.

 

[mcinfantry]

id put the LDS in in a second. more power than an ldt

 

[ken]

The main difference between the lds and ldt is the oil pan is on backwards. You will need new or reuse the oil pickup tubes from the ldt. You will also have to move the dipstick. Just reuse the plug in the other hole. The LDS usally has the better nozzles for the oil coolers in the pistons. I have seen LDS's with a tag stating that it has 2 1/2 ton pistons installed. The tag also states that 180BHP is the max. Most rebuilds have the FDC bypassed and the fuel rate set as low as possable. About 130 BHP.

 

[ken]

Oh yea, I almost forgot. You will need to reuse your Flywheel, clutch, pilot bushing, and bellhousing. The LDS has the starter on the drivers side.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Thats a pretty faid deal on can engines now a days. Since everyone else covered the engine details, I'll try to help with starting.You really only need a pair of batteries and fuel. I've used a big coffee can and submerged both the booster pump line and the return line in the can. Hook up batteries and bleed the injectors. You can run it for at least 5 minutes without cooling, frobably more. I've ran them for 15 minutes without cooling before.

 

[forklift]

emmado22 said

That looks like a Condition Code B to me written on the can... Used but serviceable.

If you look at the back corner of that can, it also says 5ton. That was the thing that worried me. I guess, if that is a 5ton engine, it won't help me, and if it's not a 5ton, it's probably also no condition code B.

 

[emmado22]

One other thing... It's entirely possible that the markings on the can are OLD, and dont apply to THAT engine in it now...

 

[Desert Rat]

LDS is THE engine to put in the Deuce! If I had one I'd be doing just that and retrofitting it like Ken said. It's a beautiful motor with Five-Ton power!

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Hello,

I've got an LDS (5-Ton) engine located and have been lusting about dropping it in my bobbed deuce 4x4 (www.M35MonsterTruck.com).

Does anyone have any insight as to how swapping from an LDT to an LDS would inpact fuel economy?

I don't haul anything in my Deuce but a little firewood and since it's an everyday driver fuel economy is important.

 

[Djfreema]

I wouldnt think fuel economy would change much if at all unless you put your foot in it more, even then it would probably be very little. Seems like alot of work/money for a few extra horsepower, unless your truck needs anew motor anyway. What kind of milage are you getting now?

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Hello,

Concerning fuel economy:

Running empty with 46.7" Dia --- 14:00R20 Michelin XLs, lock-out front hubs and the LDT -"D" turbo I'm getting 10MPG. Bear in mind this is a bodded 4X4

I've got a new 24 volt radiator fan that will eliminate the "fixed" water pump fan. When it is installed I post the results.

I'm also planning on by-passing the fuel density compensator and experimenting with punp timing. I can't help but believe that multi-fuel engines, being timed to accomodate many fuels, could benefit from tweaking the timing.

I "think" I've read all the posts concerning removing (by-passing) the FDC and I'm still a little confused as to whether re-calibration is needed after the FDC is by-passed.

I've read where some claim to be getting 14MPG with standard 6x6 deuces. If that is the case I would think that with the spin out hubs, no fan and only 4 tires on the ground I could get 14.

I'm also changing to softer, lighter and shorter (46.7 Dia) Goodyear 385/95RX20s. They are about 4" shorter than the 1400s (which I think are too tall for standard (non turned up) pump settings).

With the 385 Goodyears 2100RPM equals 55MPH and 2600 equals 68MPH*.
(assuming 5th gear is .079 and not .085)

 

[wreckerman893]

MAN!!!!!That little red truck is tougher than woodpecker lips. Got to have one.

 

[houdel]

Ernie - DON'T bypass the FDC, there is no need to do so unless it is leaking fuel into the engine oil. Leave it connected in case you need to run fuel other than straight #2 diesel. Like in Northern Minnesota, when you need to run #1 diesel in the winter to keep your fuel from gelling. The FDC will compensate for the reduced fuel density of the #1 diesel and maintain engine power. With the FDC bypassed your power will be reduced with the #1 diesel.

If you want more power, FIRST install a boost gauge and pyrometer, then tweak your fuel delivery adjustment. A little adjustment goes a long way - don't turn the adjustment nut more than one flat (1/6) turn at a time and then try it out. You need the pyrometer to check your exhaust gas temperature (EGT) after adjusting the fuel delivery, the EGT rises rapidly as the fuel delivery goes up. Get much above 1150-1200 degrees EGT and you run the risk of melting your turbo! See more at http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=6629

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Hello Lee ----Thanks for the insight.

Guess I didn't realize the FDC also had to do with #1 Diesel. Sometimes #1 is all we can get up here in mid-winter.

I've got a combination boost & pyro gauge. With my FITP (foot in the pump) --- running empty max boost is 6 PSI with 1100 degrees on the pyro.

When I installed the boost/pyro assy I also installed a new stainless (muffler) exhaust system. I installed the thermocouple for the pyro in the header pipe about 2" from the turbo exhaust which from what I'm reading appears to have been a mistake as I may not be getting an accurate reading. I installed the thermocouple downstream because I didn't want it so someday come appart and trash the turbo.

I realize this may sound like a contradiction given that I started out asking about a 5-ton ("S") motor but I'm a little reluctant to turn up the pump for fuel economy reasons.

I spoke this morning with a guy that says he is getting between 10 & 12 MPG on his stock 6X6 deuce. Given I have lock-out hubs, only have 4 wheels on the ground and only weight 10,000 pounds I think I should be albe to get better than 10MPG.

If I buy the 5-ton motor it will most likely be for a spare --- given that the hardest I ever work my truck is when I make a WallMart run or haul a snowmobile or some firewood I certainly don't need the added horses --- (other than for the allmighty ego).

My immediate focus is going to be to fine tune the existing LDT "D" motor for optimum operational efficiency (fuel economy). This may be a little tricky as I don't think anyone is currently concentrating on economy. I welcome any insight and wil be posting the results.

Thks.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Thank You Wreckerman 893!

Thanks for the kind remarks about Big Red.
www.M35MonsterTruck.com

Ole Santa will make sure something special is left in your stocking on Christmas morning.

(Only 136 shopping days till Christmas)

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