• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Opening a Can of Worms

tklm539

New member
423
1
0
Location
Bolton Landing NY
I have asked this before, but am trying to get a definitive answer (if there is one) as I am at the point where I will be buying things.

My deuce is used almost entirely on the road. It will plow in the winter. I will be installing 11.00x20 medium tread radial singles on the rear and in the front.

My plan is to put a single front hub on the center axle to lock it out and 2 desplined hubs on the front to lock them out. Does this sound right?

That was question 1

Now for number 2. (question that is) Will this arrangement provide noticeable on road driving improvement and mpg improvement. Or am I locking out so much that I will get stuck in a puddle? I plan on taking all the lock outs off for the winter.

Before anyone suggests it, I cannot afford to go with real lockouts at this point. So I will have to hub switch when needed.

Thanks in advance[/i]
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
17
38
Location
Temple, TX
Question #1 Lockout hub and double splined axel shaft for the front drive axel. Sprag or air shift?
Question #2 Yes, maybe, and yes
From my truck with the front axel lock outs and front drive axel lockout.
Yes it will help with driving. Takes out a lot of the knuckle busting and steering wheel spin from the front pulling. It also helps a lot on turning. I am running 46” tires and noticed a bid difference but it is still a pain to steer.
Gas mileage? I have never checked but guess it would because it would eliminate 2 axels from having to pull. If you are running a sprag it will not help much on mileage as everything will still be turning just will not be pulling.
Stuck in a puddle, maybe. I have notice tire spin on grass and mud. Even a little churp on dry pavement. If there is not much incline then it will do ok but any incline or curb, wet grass, etc. you might have some issues.
 

tklm539

New member
423
1
0
Location
Bolton Landing NY
Thanks
It is airshift. Am I correct that a single front stock hub, replacing the original center hub will lock out the axle? Or do I need two front hubs on the back as I would to lock out the front?

Wow I think I am making it worse!!! Let me try again!!

Lock out Center axle ---- Install 1 stock front hub on either side.

Lock out Front axle ---- Install 1 desplined front hub on each side.
:?:
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
17
38
Location
Temple, TX
Clear as mud. On the front steer axel you need 2 lock out hubs or 2 desplined hubs. On the front rear drive axel you need one lock out hub and 1 double splined axel. Leve the other side alone. You also could pull the drive axel and bolt on a front hub and accomplish the same thing but if you ever got it into a situation where you need the axel to pull you would be SOL unless you were carrying the drive axel.
 

tklm539

New member
423
1
0
Location
Bolton Landing NY
OK, I am clear on the front.

I have a single front hub for the front rear, now you threw me with the double splined axle. Is this something I need to order or is it already in there? Sorry for being so thick on this.
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
17
38
Location
Temple, TX
The rear axels have the drive hub made to the axel. (all one piece) not like the fronts that have the splined stub axel shaft that fits into the drive flange. In order for the lock out hub to drive on the rear axel you will need a double splined axel. (splines on both ends) one end to go into the lockout hub and the other to go into the differential. Cost wise you could pull the rear axle and bolt on a cover or front drive flange thus eliminating the front rear from pulling but if you ever needed it you would need to reinstall the axel.
This is all assuming that the carrier is open. If it has a locker installed, which it should not, then both sides would need to be done to eliminate it from pulling.
 

tklm539

New member
423
1
0
Location
Bolton Landing NY
Now I go it!!

I just showed how new to this I am. I did not realize that the rear hub and axle are connected. For now, (cost) I am going to pull the one axle and put on the front hub in its place.

I will see how I do with that alone before jumping to locking out the fronts.

Thanks for you time and patience!!!!!

Tom
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
17
38
Location
Temple, TX
tklm539 said:
Now I go it!!

For now, (cost) I am going to pull the one axle and put on the front hub in its place.

I will see how I do with that alone before jumping to locking out the fronts.

Tom
Put a set of desplined hubs on the front and pull one rear axel and replace with the front hub and drive it. See how you like it and go from there.
I noticed a lot of difference and like it.
 

FSBruva

New member
629
1
0
Location
Marietta, GA
Well.. how about some terminology clarification.

The front axle is splined at both ends, with a U-joint in the middle. One end sticks into the differential, and the other sticks into a splined drive flange (what you have been calling a hub).

The rear axles are splined at one end only. Instead of a drive flange to connect the hub to the axle... the flange is integrated to the end of the axle. When you unbolt a rear axle flange and pull it out, it will take a while, because there is like 4' of axle attached to it. So, if you want to use a poboy lockout by just switching between splined and unsplined drive flanges... you are kind of out of luck for the rear. It can be done, but you have to buy a double splined rear axle.

As for locking out too much... it would be wise to keep your front axle stock. Look at the axle weight ratios on your dataplate - when the truck is empty, the front axle has TWICE the weight (traction) of the rear. You'd be surprised how little traction just the rears give you.

Matt

PS.. a lot of these discussions happen over and over and over again. Check out the search function, and I'll bet that somewhere in the 580 threads, some questions have already been answered.

http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=7254&highlight=lockout+hubs
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
17
38
Location
Temple, TX
Yes it’s been asked, yes it’s been answered, no it has not been answered, yes it has.
For a street truck with air shift I would think that normally the front is never locked in. Road manners are a lot better with front lock out hub / drive flanges. Not having my knuckles busted was a plus. I now have a front locker installed so the lockouts are a must. The front rear axel with a lockout helps with turning a lot too. Cost wise I would have not done it but I was able to do some parts swapping to keep cost down. After driving my truck both ways I would go with the lockout hub. Yes front and front rear. For a street truck, desplined drive flanges / hubs should work as long as you don’t really get into any mud or sloped grass.
 

FSBruva

New member
629
1
0
Location
Marietta, GA
Beware of giving your truck too much credit on the street. The link I posted includes a first hand account of Kenny's tractor getting stuck in a wet parking lot. Got the front wheels over the speed bump, but couldn't get the rears over. Couldn't back the fronts up and over. A 6x4 can get stuck!

Matt
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks