Reid
New member
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- New Orleans, LA
I gotta fix some leaks on the drivetrain inlet/outlet plates that go into the axles. But these nuts will not come off, soaked em, wrenched, cheater bar. Any ideas? Got a 2-1/4” socket…
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Opening up the rockwells…
- Thread starter Reid
- Start date
- 3,222
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- Tonopah, AZ
You almost have to use a impact. The ones I have done that is what I did.
Reid
New member
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- New Orleans, LA
sigh* yep, I guess I’ve been putting it off for too long anyway. You using a 1” or 1/2” drive?
- 5,614
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- Metairie/La (N'awlins)
I used a 1/2 that did the job.
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- 113
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- Burgkunstadt, Germany
We too used 1/2 inch to get them off. Broke two sockets before we could get impact sockets.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
- 27,786
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- Cincy Ohio
You could always put the wrench on and drive the truck to loosen them.
An impact is the way I'd go, but its not an absolute. Just sayin.
An impact is the way I'd go, but its not an absolute. Just sayin.
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- Hidden Valley, Az
I seem to remember those get torqued to some 600 foot-pounds.
I do remember hanging my almost 200lbs on a 5-foot torque wrench to get there.
DG
I do remember hanging my almost 200lbs on a 5-foot torque wrench to get there.
DG
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- Orlando, FL
Here's the way I did my M818. The process is the same for the M35.
Replacing the pinion seal is not that hard. I got my seals from bigmikem35a2 on Ebay for $15.95 each. I would buy a couple because if one is bad the others are probably not far behind. I have replaced 2 on my M818.
Read the TM first. I suggest using a 3/4 inch impact to remove and re-install the pinion nut. Use PB Blaster or WD40 if you have a hard time getting the pinion nut off.
The process is as follows:
Remove drive shaft if the flange the seal is leaking at is driven. Make a reference mark on the pinion flange and drive shaft flange so they get back together the same way.
Remove the cotter pin from the pinion nut. You need to be able to tighten the nut back to the same torque so make reference marks on all parts. Take a magic marker and draw a line across the pinion to show where the cotter pin is. Mark the pinion nut on the ears on each side where the cotter pin was on the nut, also mark the pinion flange.
Remove the pinion flange nut. The pinion flange should now just pull off. Check the pinion flange seal surface and make sure it is smooth. One of mine had some scratches that I had to sand out with some 1000 grit paper and buffing compound. If there is a lot of scoring you can have a new sleeve installed on the flange.
Remove the cover that has the seal and remove the seal. Clean the mating surfaces where the seal goes and where the cover mounts to the differential. Clean the mounting surface on the differential.
Put a bead of RTV where the seal goes and install the new seal. Check to make sure RTV has not gotten on the front of the seal; wipe it off if necessary. Apply a bead of RTV around the cover mounting holes. Re-install the cover on the differential.
Put a little grease on the seal lips and noting your alignment marks re-install the pinion flange. Re-install the nut and torque it down until the marks line up with the marks on the pinion. Re-install the cotter pin. Re-install the drive shaft if applicable.
Check the oil level and you are done.
Replacing the pinion seal is not that hard. I got my seals from bigmikem35a2 on Ebay for $15.95 each. I would buy a couple because if one is bad the others are probably not far behind. I have replaced 2 on my M818.
Read the TM first. I suggest using a 3/4 inch impact to remove and re-install the pinion nut. Use PB Blaster or WD40 if you have a hard time getting the pinion nut off.
The process is as follows:
Remove drive shaft if the flange the seal is leaking at is driven. Make a reference mark on the pinion flange and drive shaft flange so they get back together the same way.
Remove the cotter pin from the pinion nut. You need to be able to tighten the nut back to the same torque so make reference marks on all parts. Take a magic marker and draw a line across the pinion to show where the cotter pin is. Mark the pinion nut on the ears on each side where the cotter pin was on the nut, also mark the pinion flange.
Remove the pinion flange nut. The pinion flange should now just pull off. Check the pinion flange seal surface and make sure it is smooth. One of mine had some scratches that I had to sand out with some 1000 grit paper and buffing compound. If there is a lot of scoring you can have a new sleeve installed on the flange.
Remove the cover that has the seal and remove the seal. Clean the mating surfaces where the seal goes and where the cover mounts to the differential. Clean the mounting surface on the differential.
Put a bead of RTV where the seal goes and install the new seal. Check to make sure RTV has not gotten on the front of the seal; wipe it off if necessary. Apply a bead of RTV around the cover mounting holes. Re-install the cover on the differential.
Put a little grease on the seal lips and noting your alignment marks re-install the pinion flange. Re-install the nut and torque it down until the marks line up with the marks on the pinion. Re-install the cotter pin. Re-install the drive shaft if applicable.
Check the oil level and you are done.
- 3,222
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- 83
- Location
- Tonopah, AZ
Yes, A good 1/2" impact will do it.
Reid
New member
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- Location
- New Orleans, LA
Starting to form a theory, I’m not convinced my pressure relief valves on the axles are working properly, anyone know a good equivalent/replacement?
Attachments
A hose barb and a hose ran up higher is what most of us do.
Reid
New member
- 5
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- 3
- Location
- New Orleans, LA
so pretty much leave it open?
- 558
- 844
- 93
- Location
- Riverhead, NY
I ran all the lines to a cheap manifold you can get at McMaster and used a cone looking muffler as the vent. Seems to be a lot better. Mounted it on the firewall.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
- 3,222
- 392
- 83
- Location
- Tonopah, AZ
I did the hose thing also. This is a pic of my M35A2. I have done all my trucks this way.
Attachments
- 2,661
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- 113
- Location
- Sunman Indiana
I used dot brake hose teed them all together then to a spare port in the back of the intake stack.