operating front winch on wrecker from front of truck

[jeep thing]

i have a 816 wrecker,my front 20,000lb winch wont let me put the clutch out lever in clutchout position to stop the winch from turning,from what i read this is normal,if this is normal this sucks because if im by myself i have to time the cable coming in ,when there is about 6 feet left i have to jump in the cab and press the clutch to stop winch,has anybody thought of a reason why you couldnt cut a tee in the line right before the rotochamber and run a 3/8" line to the front of truck by the winch and put a ball valve,then from the other side of ball valve run a 3/8" line and tie back into a line under pressure,thaat way when you want to stop winch you open ball valve letting air pressure to rotochamber pushing clutch in cab in automatically,does anybody else think this would work,or does anybody think this is unsafe for some reason,please let me know what you wrecker guys think

 

[Recovry4x4]

Well, winch operation is supposed to be in the cab, not at the front of the truck. Your idea sounds like it would work for declutching but not sure how smooth it would be for applying power.

 

[jeep thing]

would it not be the same as the rear winch,the lever at the rear does the same thing

 

[zb39]

I believe it would. I understand, your by yourself, but the military had plenty of people and always wanted at least 2...I have had the same problem. Fact is my clutch will not completly disengage , i am still trying diff adjustments?? Any thoughts??

 

[jeep thing]

does your cluctch work with the foot pedal,if it does you have to check your roto chamber,if the roto chamber is leaking air then there is not enough pressure to push clutch all the way in,if this is the case you must if you can rebuild rotochamber,or do what i did replace it,when you check the rotochamber be sure that you have the air pressur on to it

 

[zb39]

Not working that well with foot pedal. Will not disengage even with it to the floor. I adjusted it some but still not there.

 

[rizzo]

would it not be the same as the rear winch,the lever at the rear does the same thing

yes, but don't use a ball valve, use a air valve and a ball valve and you will have to install a ball valve on the rear line before the rear air valve. make sure you plumb the air valve right. If you don't use the two ball valves the air pressure your putting on one end will be released on the other end because the air valves vent the line between the air valve and the clutch.

when not using the winch keep the ball valves closed. only open the valve, at the winch you are using, when operating the winch.

an air valve will release the pressure off the clutch wen you turn the air off. if you used a ball valve only the pressure would stay on the system.

I don't see where it could be unsafe. same as working with the rear winch

understand?

 

[jeep thing]

excellent point if i just use ball valve there is now way to releive air pressure and clutch would not re-engage,thanks rizzo,so if air valve is to expensive ill just add another ball valve to vent/beed pressure off/and add a check valve at tee at rotochamber that way i wont have to go to rear and that way it does not change any function at rear of truck

 

[rizzo]

excellent point if i just use ball valve there is now way to releive air pressure and clutch would not re-engage,thanks rizzo,so if air valve is to expensive ill just add another ball valve to vent/beed pressure off/and add a check valve at tee at rotochamber that way i wont have to go to rear and that way it does not change any function at rear of truck

if you add a check valve your rear controls will not release when you are operating from the rear, unless you go to the front and vent it

 

[jeep thing]

sure they would ,if ya come off the roto with tee ,branch line goes to front,the the other side of tee put check valve flowing in direction of roto,that way so long as your not useing front ball valve the flow would go from rear control to roto,but flow from the front set up wont go past check valve

 

[rizzo]

sure they would ,if ya come off the roto with tee ,branch line goes to front,the the other side of tee put check valve flowing in direction of roto,that way so long as your not useing front ball valve the flow would go from rear control to roto,but flow from the front set up wont go past check valve

correct, but after you put the air pressure to the roto from the back how is it going to release. the air valve in the back will release it up to the check valve.

how is the air going to release off the roto if the check valve will not let it past?

 

[jeep thing]

damit ,thankyou you are correct

 

[jeep thing]

ok rizzo you are the man, you are correct add two valves up front and add one at the rear control but then it should work,thankyou for the help i should have this in this summer ill pm you and let you know how it worked out

 

[Jake0147]

Just a thought from somebody who doesn't entirely understand this system- Only what's in this post.

You have to have a ball valve (or suitable substitute) to completely close off the "control station" that is not in use- In addition to that you're talking about two ball valves, one to apply air from your "new" control station, and another to vent from the same location? Is this correct?
If so, I would think that a PTO shift valve would give a simple "one lever" fill and dump operation and be a much cleaner, "user friendly" installation.

 

[jeep thing]

you are correct ,but i am a pipe fitter,i have access to many ballvalves for free,