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Opinions everyone

SteveSkal

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So I have my 84 1009 now and recently had a neighbor blow up her Civi Blazer and I have the opportunity to pick this thing apart, should I swap out the doors and tailgate on my 1009 so I can get power windows and lock and a locking tailgate? I know a lot of you guys are purists and like to keep your vehicles stock but some creature comforts would be nice too...so
Do I leave my vehicle alone?
Do I swap out the parts, will this increase or decrease the value of the truck?
or
Just do what the heck I want, its my truck? LOL
 

maddawg308

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CUCVs aren't really old enough to be "collectable" as far as originality is concerned. I've seen CUCVs that were modified to ****, and brought bigger $$$ than stock ones, as long as the mods were well done and are desirable from a user standpoint. I say swap the doors if you want them, don't fear that changing things will change the value of the truck - it's YOUR truck, after all. Do the research into the new parts, see pros/cons about the swap, and go from there.
 
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WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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Why? All that extra crap is just more to go wrong. GM truck electronic locks were kinda prone to failure in the mid eighties any way. Same goes for the electric windows too. Leave it alone and just drive it.
 

JGBallew

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Why? All that extra crap is just more to go wrong. GM truck electronic locks were kinda prone to failure in the mid eighties any way. Same goes for the electric windows too. Leave it alone and just drive it.
This. Had more than a few GM products of that era come in with trashbags over windows that wouldnt roll up, power locks that wouldnt, etc.

K.I.S.S. definitely applies here.
 
360
4
18
Location
southern ca
i would swap the doors if you have any rust at the base, but would keep the electric locks or power windows. Just more to go wrong and more cost in my opinion. As for the tailgate thats tough. My stinking tailgate eats up handles at the cyclic rate, at three already and ive had the truck seven months. If I would get something more reliable I would jump all over it.

But its your project go for whatever makes you happy and what suits your style. Thats the beauty of these trucks there blank slates.
 

L999here

Member
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South Bend,IN
...depends...

It's nice to be able to point to a totally restored MV and say that you have the good fortune to be independently wealthy. But that is usually not the case. Most of us buy an MV and use it ...sometimes as a daily driver. If you use your truck in business or just transportation a couple times a week...then up-grade the beast. It will make you feel better,easier to sell and maintain and get your money's worth. I wish I could afford to drive my armor every day....but tracked vehicles and small cars do not mix well.....LOL. And the state of IN does not take the divets in the highway lightly.
 

OL AG '89

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Kingwood, Texas
Do what pleases you !! swap it out, leave it alone, run through 6ft of mud....
It's yours, you paid for it, you own it.....

But if I was you, I'd put aftermarket air and recaro bucket seats with heat & a/c in them... don't forget the 2000W 4 channel stereo with bluetooth and WiFi......:)
 

Mainsail

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Compromise. Pull the guts out of the doors and tailgate and swap them over to yours. That way you still have the original doors and tailgate, just upgraded to power.
 

MT4222

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I would take the glass from the blown blazer incase yours break. i would then take the door panels and internal electric mechanism. i would put it in your door shell so it has the data plates and the carc paint. i would take the tailgate and paint it with carc. maybe take some extra axle parts and incase yours break . maybe some of the interior parts. (dome light. gauges. insulation. sound deadening. Etc....) just my 2cents
 

SteveSkal

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Denver CO
You guys all rock, all great and valid suggestions! Still tough decisions to be made. My drivers side door has lots of dents and would require much bodywork to make look presentable so I am for sure going to swap that one out no matter what. Wish I could swap the whole darn Quarters LOL, they are so clean on the Civi Blazer :cry:
 

sierrajcharlie

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I'm in the same situation. I've been saved by a rear end and rear drive shaft. I've put the console in my 09 and thought about the cap but a glass is broken. I'm considering a tranny swap yet. So, to answer your question TAKE EVERYTHING!!!!! Park it somewhere and know you have an insurance policy!
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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Have you considered the 12 volt components that you'll be patching in to your CUCV's 24 Volt wire harness and the power/battery loading/charging system details that you will have to address for a well-engineered total package that won't habitually kill your batteries with asymetric loading/charging???
 

epartsman

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Jacksonville/Florida
You guys all rock, all great and valid suggestions! Still tough decisions to be made. My drivers side door has lots of dents and would require much bodywork to make look presentable so I am for sure going to swap that one out no matter what. Wish I could swap the whole darn Quarters LOL, they are so clean on the Civi Blazer :cry:
Do what I was going to do till mine decided to go south on me. Do a body swap complete. Her body on your frame (kinda sounds perverted LOL). Carc the interior, pull the data plates and the vin plate off of yours, rivet them on the new body, run 2 separate fuse panels, get the compressor kit and hoses from nostalgic air, and carc the outside. Your value will go up.
 

epartsman

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Have you considered the 12 volt components that you'll be patching in to your CUCV's 24 Volt wire harness and the power/battery loading/charging system details that you will have to address for a well-engineered total package that won't habitually kill your batteries with asymetric loading/charging???
The CUCV is all 12V except the starting and charging circuits that do make provision for 12V at the firewall. Instead of the thin gauge feed wire coming off of the rear battery a thicker cable can be used with a lug style 175 amp main fuse and a beefier distribution block. Even the trailer wiring is 12V. Any 24V coming inside was for Military radios, Stce connector etc so it would not be hard to accomplish. As for load the power accessories do not run ie: you are not constantly locking doors or rolling up windows etc. Many people have added AC with no adverse effects and it is adviseable to swap your GP system to 12V.
 

SteveSkal

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Location
Denver CO
it is adviseable to swap your GP system to 12V.
Where can I find some clear instructions on doing this, I have searched and seems all the posts I find are just people stating that they have done this etc, can't seem to find a post that actually gives instructions on how to do it.

I'm curious why GM engineers didn't just run straight 12 volts to the GP if that is what the require, the whole step down resistors seem like extra unnecessary garbage??
 

Recovry4x4

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Where can I find some clear instructions on doing this, I have searched and seems all the posts I find are just people stating that they have done this etc, can't seem to find a post that actually gives instructions on how to do it.

I'm curious why GM engineers didn't just run straight 12 volts to the GP if that is what the require, the whole step down resistors seem like extra unnecessary garbage??

This method is necessary for slave starting.
 
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