optimizer long block - hummer 24V or cucv 24v

[gimpyrobb]

Do a search for a Parker store near you. Any time I've needed fittings or adapters, they have been a huge help. Its nice to walk in with a problem and leave with a solution.

 

[rsh4364]

I have read that a lot of the late 6.5 td motors didn't have an oil cooler in the radiator, I plan on just running a b&m 70266 cooler bypassing the radiator altogether.But I would like to use the oil cooler side to run my transmission fluid thru before a b&m 70273 auxiliary cooler, so if you get fittings figured out post updates please. And on the trans cooler side of the radiator I was thinking of running the power steering fluid.

 

[richingalveston]

yes a lot of them just used a stand alone cooler. I have one of those. just going to add the radiator one in the loop so I get the oil heated in winter.
same reason for trans. I have a separate cooler for the power steering. since I had external coolers for all three, I still want to use the radiator coolers so I figured the oil and trans fluid are most important.

I have oil lines going to radiator area and splitting using AN 6 connectors with PTFE line.
The trans is connected in series, external cooler first and then the radiator cooler. AN 6 connectors there also but using the summit braided line with the reusable hose ends.

I could not find any thing to match the factory oil cooler line at local hardware. I am fairly certain it is an 18 cnt thread. and most likely 3/4 in in size. I am looking for those now to test.

yes I will post any progress made.

one other item that is being difficult to find is a brass feral for the banks turbo boost gauge. I messed up the one I had. the are really small, maybe 3/32.

thanks
rich

 

[Drock]

yes a lot of them just used a stand alone cooler. I have one of those. just going to add the radiator one in the loop so I get the oil heated in winter.
same reason for trans. I have a separate cooler for the power steering. since I had external coolers for all three, I still want to use the radiator coolers so I figured the oil and trans fluid are most important.

I have oil lines going to radiator area and splitting using AN 6 connectors with PTFE line.
The trans is connected in series, external cooler first and then the radiator cooler. AN 6 connectors there also but using the summit braided line with the reusable hose ends.

I could not find any thing to match the factory oil cooler line at local hardware. I am fairly certain it is an 18 cnt thread. and most likely 3/4 in in size. I am looking for those now to test.

yes I will post any progress made.

one other item that is being difficult to find is a brass feral for the banks turbo boost gauge. I messed up the one I had. the are really small, maybe 3/32.

thanks
rich

Well the gauge thing is easy. I've broken the line 3 or 4 times while working under the hood. It's just a line coupler, advanced sells them on the little spinning rack on their fastener isle.

 

[Barrman]

I'm confused. You want all AN fittings? yet, the pictures show the push in fittings. Like I wrote, I'm confused on what you need. I did AN fittings and hoses on my Cowdog truck with the stock CUCV radiator. Let me go look for what sizes I ended up using to make it all fit. That was a year or so ago.

Post 233:

-6 AN braided steel hose. I found a place on Ebay that sells the cooler and AN fittings and such with the hose. They normally sell 10' of hose with their kits. However, they put their phone number in the description so I called them. I got more hose and eliminated some of the fittings they normally include. I don't want to put the business name on here because I am sure they have ongoing auctions still which could be me in trouble. They are in Virginia though and very nice to deal with.

Summit was the source for the rest of the parts.
2-SUM220686B -6 x 45° hose end black for the cooler
1-SUM-220027 trans line adpt black which is the non taper fittings that have to fit into a 4L80E to -6 AN.
3-SUM-220687B -6 90° degree hose ends. These will come off the transmission and the 3rd one will go on the radiator and feed the line going to the cooler.

EDIT: The radiator cooler line is 5/16 inch inverted flare. Yet the radiator fitting is actually called 1/2-20. Russell part number "640330 adapter, inverted flare, straight, -6 (1/2"-20)" is what works to go to -6 AN.

 

[richingalveston]

there are two coolers in the radiator. all the info you are giving is for the trans cooler, I am using this info for the trans cooler.

I am trying to get AN fittings for the Oil cooler without using the metal lines. The pictures I have posted are not push in fittings. They are small brass ferrel with a flare head on one side and o ring on other. Summit sells them as Air conditioner fittings.

These two brass fittings came with my radiator and will only fit in the oil cooler line holes. I believe the oil cooler lines are 11/16 -18cnt threads. I have ordered an inverted flare from summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-648050

I also ordered a power steering fitting that may work.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-648040

I will post the results when I get the parts.

Rich

 

[richingalveston]

parts got here fast but did not work, not 11/16 has to be 3/4 or a metric. I still think it is 18ct threads

 

[Chaski]

parts got here fast but did not work, not 11/16 has to be 3/4 or a metric. I still think it is 18ct threads

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/krs-krc10123000
Might be 18mm X 1.5mm
1.5mm thread pitch is almost exactly 17tpi

 

[richingalveston]

yes I think that is my metric option.

if I could find the right threads and size, I would think you could just thread seal it and not need the flare and o ring.

 

[richingalveston]

I confirmed with spectra, the threads are 3/4 - 18 for the oil cooler connection. the brass inserts with the o rings are needed to convert it to an inverted flare.
searching the web for every option,
summit has the parts.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1145

the inserts are also at summit but cannot find them at this time for a link.

The PTFE hose is really good stuff and these connectors are easy to use. I already have them for my high pressure hydraulic lines.

I have ordered the parts, they are not stock so 15+ days to get.
pics will follow once parts are received.

rich

 

[richingalveston]

attached are current progress pics of getting it back together. I now need to complete oil cooler lines. Tranny lines and hydraulic lines are all complete. you can see in the one pic where I am building the T for the to oil coolers. The fittings for the radiator oil cooler only come in -8 hose size so that will be what runs from the t to each cooler. from the motor I am using the Leroy diesel lines which I believe are -8 also.

 

[gimpyrobb]

What are the 2 vents on that aluminum plate for?

 

[richingalveston]

they are catch can vents with roll over check valves. one is for my transfer case and the other is for my other transfer case (ord magnum box) I have two more coming(that is why plat is large). one will be for the tranny and the other for front and rear differential vents.

first purchased for the t-case since I am having problems keeping it full of fluid at highway speeds. it pushes fluid out until the sincroniser rings start to jingle. It Is a 205 and clocked up pretty flat so that is probably my problem. I have a one court catch can to add to the back of the 205. it will hopefully add just enough expansion to keep the fluid I need in it to keep it running quiet. I don't think it is being hurt but I don't like the noise. My truck is very well insulated so you can actually hear things. The current vent catch can is not large enough, it pushed it out this can with it mounted this high in the engine compartment.

 

[richingalveston]

plumbing almost complete

I was able to get a little more work done. All the oil lines are done with the exception of the hose ends at the radiator oil cooler I am still waiting on those. They show a 3-15 ship date. I have the hose looped for now.

I am using Leroy diesel oil lines and the oil cooler he sells they are PFTE -8 size. I had to do a little piping at the engine. may change in the future but working for now.

I welded two tees to a 4"x6" piece of metal scrap and from the t's I am using PFTE -8 hose. The hose ends for the radiator I could only find in -8 size and it seams it will be 3 to 4 weeks to get.

Oil lines complete with no leaks on lines. Tranny lines complete with no leaks.

Hydro lines complete but one leak on high pressure line at power steering pump. I have to re-do that fitting. It was one of my first to do. The first one I did failed so I have a nice coat of hydro oil over most things right now it takes about two seconds to dump a quart of fluid. I shut it down as fast as I could. when I turned the steering to lock, it blew. I trimmed to much of the braid when doing the fitting. by the third time doing the fittings I had It figured out so only having to fix two is not to bad.

The only other leak I have is the drivers side valve cover, it is a drip every 30 seconds. I have not started to work on it, hopefully tomorrow I can get the fitting redone and the valve cover fixed. with a little luck all that is needed is a snugging of the bolts.

once the last two leaks are sealed up I can take it out for test drives and then to get the exhaust completed.

Rich

 

[rsh4364]

Why not from the block to radiator oil cooler then from radiator cooler to secondary cooler then back to the block? Eliminating the T fittings.

 

[richingalveston]

it can be done that way, my tranny is plumed that way.

I will mostly be running in the heat and not the cool so I wanted to use both to get max cooling of the oil. I will get some reheat in winter if needed. The second reason is that I can carry two 1/2 npt plugs and if I have a cooler failure I can disconnect the failed cooler and still run with one.

I am not claiming this to be better than coolers in series, I think it will be but the main reason I ended up with what I have is I purchased the Leroy hoses in a kit with cooler and fittings. However the kit is really for a 6.5 with the stand alone cooler that sits next to radiator

Thus I had to deal with a fixed length on the two hoses from the engine. Since I was going to have a splice in the hose, a T was just as good. I also needed to tie the hose ends down so they are not flopping around at the splice.

Doing it over again I would have purchased more hose and additional fittings from summit and just got the cooler from Leroy without the kit and ran the cooler in series. (It would be cheaper)

 

[Barrman]

Looking good Rich.

 

[richingalveston]

I got all the lines done. I am going to get a 180 degree connection for the oil cooler so I can get the oil cooler lines to run next to my BO light.

the hose ends work great on the radiator. you have to cut the brass inserts down because the hole is to small inside the radiator for the stem.

No leaks, no extra fittings or partial pieces of the original lines. It is -8 size hose and fittings

After some warnings from a couple members and looking up some info, I decided I better turn my oil cooler over to prevent air lock. It is going to make the hoses a little messy but it will operate properly

The hose, hose ends, and all fittings can be purchased at summit

 

[richingalveston]

two steps forward one large one backwards. got all leaks done except valve cover and got that down to a small seep.
going to take it for its first drive today and while doing its warm up, something happened and it developed a knock and a little smoke.

not sure where to start. sounds like a stuck lifter on an old gas motor but not sure how that translates to the internals of a diesel.
I know a bad injector can cause similar noise and smoke. strange an injector would go bad with only 30 minutes of run time. I have run the motor to warm up 4 or 5 times and I have let it run for as long as 15 minutes. I was working on fixing all the leaks.

I have not rev'd the motor past 2000 rpm and at all times a gentle rise in the throttle and then slow let off, have not been punching the throttle.

I guess I am going to break it down to the point I can get the valve covers off and see what the valves and rods look like.

At least I have all the cooler lines done and working well

 

[Drock]

two steps forward one large one backwards. got all leaks done except valve cover and got that down to a small seep.
going to take it for its first drive today and while doing its warm up, something happened and it developed a knock and a little smoke.

not sure where to start. sounds like a stuck lifter on an old gas motor but not sure how that translates to the internals of a diesel.
I know a bad injector can cause similar noise and smoke. strange an injector would go bad with only 30 minutes of run time. I have run the motor to warm up 4 or 5 times and I have let it run for as long as 15 minutes. I was working on fixing all the leaks.

I have not rev'd the motor past 2000 rpm and at all times a gentle rise in the throttle and then slow let off, have not been punching the throttle.

I guess I am going to break it down to the point I can get the valve covers off and see what the valves and rods look like.

At least I have all the cooler lines done and working well

Agree I'd pull the valve covers sense their leaking anyways. Might be rocker shaft came loose or a pushrod not seated properly. BTW permatex right stuff is what you want for the valve covers..https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIjqbij_ns2QIVSJF-Ch2EpwX6EAQYAyABEgLlNvD_BwE