optimizer long block - hummer 24V or cucv 24v

[rsh4364]

Agree with Drock, bad injectors sounds more like a rod knock. Double check valve train.

 

[Barrman]

Dang Rich. Loosening an injector line while it is running will let you hear the sound go away.

I have to write this too. My GEP is the loudest engine I have. The mechanical noise is just terrible. I have messed with the timing, loosened injector lines trying to find a bad cylinder, replaced the IP, replaced all the injectors too. It is just loud. Could it be you finally got all the air out of the lines and it is just now running at full strength on all 8?

 

[richingalveston]

it is going to be a couple days before I can get started but to be safe I am going to pull the valve covers and check the rockers.

I don't want to run it much with a known noise issue so I decided not to start it back up and run through the injectors. right when the noise started I got a little black smoke and then white smoke. now just mostly a little white smoke that it was not doing before.

I am sure the injectors are getting fuel the system has been primed well and run long enough to work any air issues out.

There was a definite pop/knock and then a constant ticking/knocking since. When the motor first starts, maybe 5 to 10 seconds the noise is not heard but becomes distinct pretty quick.

it sounds like a hydraulic lifter that is sticking except it is definitely constant and consistent with the rpm.

Strange you say your motor is loud. This motor is very quiet compared to the 6.2 I had. I have no exhaust at this time and no hood or fenders and this motor is not as loud as the 6.2 that was in it.

I have added roller rockers and the timing gear set to which both of those mods are supposed to help valve train noise and I think the really do help. I am tempted to not run a muffler, it is that quiet.
I have not played with the timing, it is currently lined up with the mark. It is turning 704 rpm at idle and it appears my tach is very close to being accurate. Have not had a chance to check it at different rpms.


I just have to roll with the punches, this truck has thrown a lot of them at me but It is what keeps me sane in my free time.
Rich

 

[Drock]

I don't know what brand of roller rockers you used but I saw this video a couple years ago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eYJdVuPkckhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1HpFu4xP9M

 

[richingalveston]

those are the rocker arms I have. These instructions were not there about the clearance issue, not what was given to me when i purchased them, no mention of any problems with them.

may be my problem hopefully i did not bend any push rods.

on note on the video. his pushrods are just laying in a pile. I always made sure to number them and make sure they go back in same hole. does it matter on 6.5 pushrods?

I did not seem to have any sticking rockers when installing but maybe once they heat up a little the tolerance is less.

I think Sunday afternoon is when i get to start breaking it down.

thanks for the info Drock
Rich

 

[Drock]

Yeah the pushrods need to go back at least in the proper orientation as far as top & bottom. One end of them is heat treated. Here's a really good video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20FBN3tdJUg

 

[richingalveston]

I know they have a right side up but I thought they were fitted per hole and had to go back in same hole.

I was also under the belief that if one had to be replaced the set had to be replaced.

I guess I just played it safe and they always go back in same hole if I am doing the work. I am not a novice nor a pro so I am not sure what you would call my experience level. I think this is my 6th motor to do myself in my lifetime (48yrs)
and probably another 6 I have helped friends do. This is my first diesel other than an old ONAN gen I worked on a long time ago.

I am going to leave the motor in the truck until I get the valve covers off at that time I will decide if I need to put it back on the stand.

that is another really good video however from experience, it is better to put all of the lines on the injection pump before installing the pump than it is to install the pump and then lines. also if you have to remove pump but not replacing, you should not have to touch the lines at the pump end other than cracking them loose and sometimes you don't have to do that, just leave the lines and pump together as one assembly.

also I wonder if a roller lifter could have a problem on the truck the truck only has 30 minutes run time and that is divided among 4 to 5 starts and warm up. The last time I ran it was the longest it had run at one time. I did spin the motor many times (dozen)using starter and no glow plugs while working my flex plate issues out but the motor had all oil just not water during that time and fuel. I made sure the fuel system was getting primed while getting the extra starter spin. added power to shut off while glow plugs were out. I was misting fuel out the glow plugs the entire time I was working the starter and I had a catch bottle on fuel return so I could verify fuel flow.

due to the extra work I did on priming the system that is one reason I am fairly certain I got all the air out. I also have electric fuel pump which really helps.

I am suspicious about the rocker arms so that is where we are headed first.

Thanks for the input
Rich

Rich

 

[richingalveston]

been away a while due to work.
motor died due to rockers seizing up. the spacers were manufactured to wide and when they come up to operating temp they swell and freeze the rockers.
I have checked all parts so far except valves everything is ok. getting motor set up for compression test so I can check the valves before putting it back together.

for those getting Harland sharp Roller rockers, make sure you get all of the instructions for install.

It is a simple fix.

although disappointed in the lack of instruction, I am not dis-satisfied with the rockers, I think they help take a lot of the rattle of the motor. I know the injectors are most of the pop noise but I think the valve train was pretty noisy also.

I did the fluid dampner and have a turbo but with no fenders (inner or outer) and no hood or any exhaust the motor was very quiet.

I am slowly back to work on the truck so I will post once the motor is back running.

Rich

 

[Sharecropper]

Hang in there Rich. Git ‘er done. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help.

 

[richingalveston]

well I am pulling it back out and putting it on the stand. looks like I have a bent valve.
while getting it ready for compression test I found the motor can not be turned over by hand once all the rockers are put back on. It has some definite sticking points.
looks like the timing gear set up I installed is also damaged. lot of extra play in the idler gears. looks like the retainer got stretched.
I will post up pics once it is on the stand.

 

[Sharecropper]

Dang I hate to hear that. Do you think those defective Harland Sharp rockers were the culprit? If so you may have some recourse for recovery. Let me know if I can assist in any way.

 

[richingalveston]

The rockers were the definite problem. I am going to write a letter to Harland sharp to see what they have to say.
I am fortunate to be doing a job for the School of Automotive Machinist. We are in the process of building them a new school. I am the general contractor.

They have been a great help to me with my motor and will help in verifying the problem with my motor and the damage it caused if needed.

Thanks
Rich

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Bleeding out air on this motor can be a bear...I work on These motors 7 days a week, getting an injector knock after fuel filter changes in common, and it is loud!. Breaking an injector line at 2k rpm and retighting does the trick most times.
its a bear to even isolate an injector as it resonates all over the place.
Pull the drain back line at the pump,while running as well....I’m sure your aware, but a sticky injector will sound like a rod knock.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Also, maybe post of video of it running and the noise at various RPm’s

 

[richingalveston]

got the heads off and there was definite contact between pistons and valves 5 pistons showed valve ring marks. the marks wipe off with your finger so it appears there is no damage to any of the pistons.

One valve showed marks from the piston all others looked ok but I am sure they are not. hopefully it is just the valves need to be replaced and no real damage to the head.

The School has offered to fix them so I am going to drop them off next week

Rich

 

[mmcwill56]

I know it's been a couple of years but do you have any parts left from the 6.2

 

[richingalveston]

yes I have the 6.2 it is only missing the intake manifold. I have it and all the new parts for it. I plan to get an intake manifold and get the motor put back together so I can sell it running. I even have most of the banks turbo pieces to go on it also

 

[ken]

Rich, if you used the thicker head gaskets do you think it would give you enough room for the valves to clear? FEL-PRO 9521PT are .010 thicker than stock.

 

[richingalveston]

I don't think .o1 will make enough difference. with everything working properly it should never happen. I am getting things fixed, just have to throw a few more $ at it.

Thanks
Rich

 

[Sharecropper]

Rich, no doubt in my mind that the Harland Sharp rockers was the culprit. Do you think you have any recourse for expense recovery from them?