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optimizer long block - hummer 24V or cucv 24v

richingalveston

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I am going to write them a letter once the heads are back from the Machine shop. the people working on the heads know the owner of Harland Sharpe. once the heads are done, I am going to bring motor and rockers to shop to assymble so they can verify my rockers caused the problem.
I purchased my parts in 10-2016. the vendor claims there were only 5 sets that got out and all were made prior to 10-2015. There is even a video on line on how to fix that was out there for more than a year before I purchased my set. I was never given this information. my set should not be old enough not to need this information There are no manufacture dates or stamps on parts. I was only given the torque specs and how to roll the cylinder to top dead center. I used the zinc add and soaked like I was supposed to.

I have no doubt I got a bad set. can I get any of my money back??????????????????????????????
 

richingalveston

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The latest update is the heads are being worked on, I am going to pull the motor so I can put it on the stand to re-assemble. It will be easier to remove the rest of the motor to work on than try to put it back together in the truck. I want to touch up all the paint while it is out.

I am adding the paradox cooling system and the flow cooler clockwise water pump. got the cooling kit but the water pump is back ordered, I hope it is here before the heads are finished.
cool weather is getting here and I want to get the truck on the road. I need to rest my work truck 45,000 miles in 8 months. I need my second vehicle

Rich
 

Sharecropper

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I waited on my FlowKooler clockwise water pump for 6 weeks. I was told that they use new castings, not refurbished used ones, and the clockwise pump is somewhat of a rarity because modern vehicles use serpentine belts which require counter clockwise pumps.

Good luck on your engine work.
 

richingalveston

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my heads are ready. ended up doing a full valve job.
so far got my gasket set (engine tech from rock auto) but no flowkooler water pump. Still on back order.

debating on purchasing a new timing gear set or putting the chain back in. The idler gears in the timing set got messed up so they are sloppy. it appears the retainer that holds the two floating gears together got stretched when the rocker arms locked up.

also wondering about the timing cover gasket. each gasket set I have has a gasket for the timing cover but manual says anaerobic sealer no gasket. I did the sealer the first time and from the factory it had no gasket. I would think that due to the water pump flowing though it a gasket would be best.
did not search so sorry if the gasket has been debated here already.

Thanks
Rich
 

Sharecropper

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Rich - your timing chain set is new so why not use it? I seriously considered the gear set for my P400 build but decided against it for several reasons, one of which was my suspicions about that retainer piece. In evaluating the gear set from an engineering standpoint, I felt that the retainer was/is the weakest component in the set, and if it stretched or distorted in any way, engine performance would be affected. I truly believe that if a timing gear set could improve strength and reliability, GEP would have included it into the specs of the P400. Having said that, I realize that I may offend those folks who sell the timing gear set, however those same folks cannot dispute the fact that your retainer failed. If fixing the failed retainer was as easy as changing an injector, it might be different, but a stretched retainer in a running engine would be difficult to diagnose and dam difficult to repair. That is why I decided to stick with my OEM timing chain from GEP. Just my 2 cents.

Regarding the timing cover seal, my #1 priority is to prevent leaks, so I used a thin bead of Permatex Ultra on both sides of the timing cover gasket.

Be be patient with FlowKooler. You will love the product.
 

richingalveston

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I was under the impression that you did not take the timing cover off, just changed the water pump. just to make sure we are on the same page, I am talking about the aluminum piece that holds the IP which is bolted to the block, not the water pump backing plate.
from factory the timing cover only has anaerobic sealing compound and no gasket. My 6.2 had no gasket. yet all the rebuild gasket kits included a gasket.

the other thing my 6.2 and the gep motor both do not have the oil baffle over the timing chain that is shown in the tm. my last 6.2 had this plate (sold this motor). how important is this piece.

thanks
Rich
 

Sharecropper

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Rich I apologize I thought you were referring to the water pump plate, not the aluminum timing gear housing. My new P400 has no visible gasket between the housing and the iron block, just some red goo which has not hardened but will clean off easily. This must be that anaerobic sealer you stated. I would like to know exactly what the stuff is in case I ever need to use it somewhere. Interestingly, GEP used this same red sealant between the engine block and the unique P400 girdle.

Regarding that splash shield, or whatever it’s called, my P400 does not have one. I saw that piece in the TM and wondered what it’s purpose would be. Evidently GM had determined that it wasn’t necessary at some point in time. I’m not sure where the oil to the timing chain and gears come from. I used to think the bottom of the timing chain was normally submerged in the oil level in the oil pan, but after looking at my open cover, I not don’t think the oil level in the pan is that high. This theory of lubrication would not make sense because on long incline driving when the oil level in the front of the pan was lower, the chain would not be lubricated. So the timing chain and gears must get their oil from one of the main galleys. Regardless, the old splash shield must not be necessary.
 

richingalveston

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Location
galveston/Texas
yes the red goo is the anaerobic compound. you can get it at auto parts store. comes in small tubes. I think it took two of the small tubes when I put it together last time.

I am guessing if the block surface or timing cover surfaces were bad you would use the gasket and if they are good not use the gasket. I am going to get the sealer and install it like it was new, since it still is.

I am pretty sure there are oil squirting ports behind the chain which spray oil on to the back of it and it splashes every where else due to the chain movement. I will find them on mine since it is still apart.

Rich
 

162tcat

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Location
Washington
Read this entire thread because I was looking at a boat with a 6.5 marine and wanted to learn a little more about them. It's a pass now! I've heard the 6.2 is a turd and the 6.5 is a little better but so many issues! Looks like I'll be running away from this or lowball offer and pulling it for a 5.9 cummins swap.
Sorry to hear about your issues and great info here


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Paris KY
Read this entire thread because I was looking at a boat with a 6.5 marine and wanted to learn a little more about them. It's a pass now! I've heard the 6.2 is a turd and the 6.5 is a little better but so many issues! Looks like I'll be running away from this or lowball offer and pulling it for a 5.9 cummins swap.
Sorry to hear about your issues and great info here


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Steel Soldiers is an outstanding resource for knowledge and information pertaining to military vehicles. Please refrain from negative and derogatory comments.
 

richingalveston

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Location
galveston/Texas
Heads are back, The school was busy and with recommendations I took them to Scroggins machine in Houston. very good work, good people. all new valves, guides, seats and seals both heads for $327

I have put the timing chain back in, going to put stock rockers back on and send back the Harland sharpe rockers with long letter. The timing gear is junk -$300. The rockers I have know way of knowing needle bearings are good or rollers are good so they are junk -$700.

And now I cannot get 6 of the lifters to pressure up at all, 2 have pressured half way, the rest seam good (hard and do not move) but I cannot trust them so I am now shopping for a new set of lifters.

Looks like the bad rockers are going to cost me approx. $1500.00

still waiting on that water pump

Rich
 

Sharecropper

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Location
Paris KY
In my opinion Harland Sharpe should reimburse you, not only for the cost of the parts but also your labor and inconvenience. Not sure what recourse you have. Their response to your letter will reveal what kind of people they truly are. If they do not respond in kind maybe start a Go Fund Me page. I’ll throw in a few bucks and I’m sure othe SS members will too. It would be helpful and enlightening if you would document the entire chronological episode in this thread so others who may be considering purchasing Harland Sharpe can read about your bad experience. Let me know if there’s anything I can do to help.
 

jesusgatos

Active member
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on the road - in CA right now
Finding the Chevy truck 6.5 parts is not difficult, in fact I just bought a residue "97 2500 in Dickinson not a week ago, posted the parts here and promptly sold the dressed 6.5 engine to Barrman which I delivered last Fri! All the serp water pumps are reverse rotation to the best of my knowledge. The twin alt setup was used on ambulances etc. The giant bracket which mounts the A/C compressor on the drivers side also mounts the alternator when so equipped.
Dual alternators AND ac?
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
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120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
Finally have some time to get the motor back together. I purchased new lifters, had the heads rebuilt and it looks like I will have some time over the next month to get the motor back in and hopefully on the road. I have everything except finishing the exhaust and that is just a trip to the exhaust shop once it is back together.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
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120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
engine.jpg
Making progress; I have the engine ready to install. Going to try and put it back in the truck tonight. It took some time to get everything repainted and I had to buy some new torque wrenches, my husky seams to have come apart and I did not trust it any more. Purchased the ones from harbor freight. All of them seamed to work well. I installed the rear cooling system from Paradox. I ran the lines under the intake and where they touched the fuel lines I wrapped them with some split rubber fuel line and tie wrapped them to the lines, this should keep them from rubbing and causing them to fail.
 
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