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ORD Shackle Flip and Stock Spring vs 4" Tuff Country EZ Ride HDs

dao

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I called ORD today to finalize my order, but sadly Chris was not available. I'm going with a 4" lift, but can't really justify going with the ORD springs....just too pricey. So, I'm trying to decide whether to go with the rear ORD shackle flip mated to stock springs or to go with the 4" Tuff Country rear spring. Denise thought the shackle flip mated to stock springs would provide a more comfortable ride. For those with direct experience, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Pros/Cons...

Link to ORD 4" lift: http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/4inchliftsystem.htm
 

bachman502

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It rides nicer with the shackle flipped vs the 4 inch spring. I have a used shackle kit that I would sell. If interested.
 

dao

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Bachman502, Why selling if it is good? And, is that a used ORD product in good condition? If so, can you shoot me a picture and price?
 

Drock

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I have the shackle flip on mine and the rear rides just like stock. You most likely will have to shorten your driveshaft and reroute your exhaust.Screenshot_2017-09-22-19-06-46.jpg
 
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Chaski

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Shackle flip is what I have. That being said for whatever reason ORD does not list how much it turns your pinion angle up.
Pretty close to 2 degrees up per inch of lift with a shackle flip. I.E. a 4" lift by shackle flip will turn your pinion up by 8 degrees.


So imagine this, when you do a shackle flip you leave the front spring attachment point alone and pivot the rear point down. If you pulled your rear leaf and stuck a pin in the front eyelet and a pencil in the rear you could draw a big circle.
Math... 52" spring (radius) multiply it by 2 (104" diameter) multiply by pi (3.14) = 326" circumference.
56" spring (radius) multiply it by 2 (112" diameter) multiply it by pi (3.14) = 351" circumference
326 and 351 are both pretty close to 360 degrees.
Every inch of shackle flip lift means moving the rear spring mounting point down by 2"
1" of movement on a chevy rear spring is pretty close to 1 degree.

You will most likely need to do something with your driveshaft and / or pinion angle with shims.

Drock is right on with the exhaust statement.

Enjoy whatever you choose. Also in my opinion Denise can be less than helpful at times. I got into a pretty good argument about expedited shipping one time, I probably have some nasty note in my customer file.
 

dao

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Good info. When I talk to Chris @ ORD next week, I'll bring up the possible issue with the driveshaft, pinion angle and exhaust. Many thanks all. Oh, hey, since my rear stock spring is a rust mess, where's the best place to get a new replacement? Just stock height.
 

Sharecropper

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I used ORD's shackle flip on the rear with stock springs and am completely happy with the results and ride quality. Chaski is spot-on regarding the pinion rotation calculation. On my M1028, the 4 degrees of rotation seemed to be perfect regarding the pinion angle, however because I also installed ORD's Zero-Rates, I had to lengthen my rear drive shaft a couple inches for proper spline engagement depth at the transfer case.

However I will also state that, on my truck, the pinion rotation also caused an unexpected issue pertaining to shock attachment which nobody had mentioned. I am not sure how the rear shocks on the M1009's are positioned, but on my M1028 the rear shock on the drivers side attaches to the frame in a forward direction and the shock on the passenger side attaches to the frame in a rearward direction. For whatever reason, when GM designed the position of the bottom shock mounting brackets, which are welded to the axle tube, they inexplicably placed them below the center-line of the tube. Because the shackle flip causes the axle tube to rotate, the passenger side shock mount on the axle tube also rotates, thereby causing the bolt hole for the bottom shock attachment to be too far under the tube to be used. When attempting to install the passenger side shock, I could bolt the bottom of the shock to the axle tube, but then could not attach the top bolt because the shock body would hit the axle tube. I considered flipping the shock over and installing the shock upside down, because in this configuration the wide shock body would be pointed up and the narrow shock piston would be pointed down. This would allow the shock to be attached, but just barely. I ruled this option out because I am not a fan of upside-down shock absorbers. After thinking about the situation a few days, I elected to cut the bottom shock mount off the axle tube and re-weld it back onto the tube in a higher position, thereby providing clearance beween the shock body and axle tube. After getting this done, and while admiring my work when looking from the rear of the truck, I decided to do the drivers side shock mount the same way because my conscience could not tolerate the out-of-balance look. After seeing how ground clearance was improved by moving the shock mounts, I then ordered and installed ORD's U-bolt flip kit. Now, with both bottom shock mounts re-welded onto the tube above the tube center-line and the U-bolt ends and nuts moved to the top of the spring packs, there is nothing hanging down to snag anything. In my opinion, GM should have designed the shock mounts and U-bolts this way originally.

While you are at it, I will also recommend replacing the spring bushings with ORD's grease-able poly units to eliminate the binding and squeaking of the old factory bushings.

Regarding the rusty springs, why don't you simply take them apart of restore the leafs? I did this and it was quite easy. I covered the entire process in posts #45 through #51 in my rebuild thread.

Hope this helps.
 

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richingalveston

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ord does sell new shock tabs that you can purchase and weld on to the tube. I used the ord tabs instead of relocating the factory set up. I have the same zero rates and would have had the same problem.
 

The FLU farm

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Now, with both bottom shock mounts re-welded onto the tube above the tube center-line and the U-bolt ends and nuts moved to the top of the spring packs, there is nothing hanging down to snag anything. In my opinion, GM should have designed the shock mounts and U-bolts this way originally.
I understand why the rear shock mounts were made low; to avoid having the top of the shocks poke up through the bed.
What I don't get is why the upper front mounts were made so low, and consequently the shocks so short, when there was plenty of space available.
 

Drock

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I forgot, I did have the shock mount problem but it was easy to fix. In fact I think ORD told me how to fix it? Just cut a slice in the mount, bend it out, weld it up. It took longer to drag the tools out then it did to fix. I guess that's why I forgot about it LOL!:wink:
 
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Chaski

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Burney/CA
Another way to fix the shock mount problem might be to use "upside down" shocks like the Bilsteins where the rod end is down giving you more clearance. I can't really speak to a 4" shackle flip since mine is only a 2.5" flip. For me the stock rear mounting points work fine with Bilsteins.
 
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