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Original Stanadyne Fuel Filter Base Rebuild

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
Hello all,

I need to rebuild the original fuel filter base for a M1009.

I know this thread exists with all the part numbers:

Which in summary is this list:

Vac switch O-ring: 15593307 $4-10
Fuel heater O-ring: 15596600 $4-10
Air bleeder screw: 15535678 (includes new o-ring, its not sold seperatly) $7-8
Earlier style Vac O-ring: 15596608 $10
heater O-ring: part # 15349 nsn # 5331-01-138-2106

Eventually these part numbers aren't going to matter, and even now it is extremely hard to find them, and when you do they are clearly being gouged.
Has anyone with a NOS original part actually taken some digital calipers and measured these o-rings for diameter and thickness?


An O-ring is an o ring, and paying $10 for a discontinued part# doesn't make much sense, when there is likely a .25 cent alternative with 10 of them in the bag.
I think in the long haul if we all want to keep these trucks running, putting out a sticky with measurements of parts for different systems that can be rebuilt is wise.

Maybe I missed it if it already exisits.
Does it?
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
Please don't say, an o-ring is an o-ring. The material is extremely important to consider to get longevity and low seepage. There are also multiple sizing conventions including SAE, ISO, JIS, DIN. McMaster-Carr has 13,304 different o-ring part numbers.
 

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
Please don't say, an o-ring is an o-ring. The material is extremely important to consider to get longevity and low seepage. There are also multiple sizing conventions including SAE, ISO, JIS, DIN. McMaster-Carr has 13,304 different o-ring part numbers.
Well that's a start. An o-ring isn't an o-ring.
What were the GM O-rings made out of? I assume viton (it's been around since the 50's)?
I'm guessing the tolerances of the O-rings in a CUCV are slightly more forgiving than in the Challenger space craft, for instance.
Do we know the sizing convention?

If we know sizes and have recommendations for materials isn't that better than not being able to buy NOS parts because there aren't any and having to junk the old parts?
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
You would certainly do well to select Viton. There are some variations of Viton but they're all excellent for diesel fuel service. The next choice is the hardness. Shore A 75 durometer will be correct for most o-rings.

The first problem, however, is going to be identifying the sizing standard. I'd assume it's going to be SAE but there is a chance they're metric as well. I haven't been in my filter housing yet so I can't help beyond that.

McMaster is going to charge around $10 for each o-ring size you order. You're going to get 10-25 o-rings in each size if you order Viton. If you have to go that route, assemble a kit. I'd buy one
 

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
You would certainly do well to select Viton. There are some variations of Viton but they're all excellent for diesel fuel service. The next choice is the hardness. Shore A 75 durometer will be correct for most o-rings.

The first problem, however, is going to be identifying the sizing standard. I'd assume it's going to be SAE but there is a chance they're metric as well. I haven't been in my filter housing yet so I can't help beyond that.

McMaster is going to charge around $10 for each o-ring size you order. You're going to get 10-25 o-rings in each size if you order Viton. If you have to go that route, assemble a kit. I'd buy one
If I can get all the sizes I will gladly assemble kits that include all the o-rings for the different series and sell them for *cost + shipping (which would essentially be a stamp unless overseas)* to members of this board.
Unfortunately there was no fuel heater o-ring in mine when I took it apart (probably why it was leaking).
There was no fuel sensor switch in mine and the hole was factory sealed, so if someone wanted that in a kit I'd need it.
You probably can't get away from paying the 22 bucks for this part, but if I ordered them in bulk shipping would at least be free.

I could probably order enough for 10 people to start, and just post everything I ordered (from where and cost) so if I get hit by a bus, someone else can take over. :)
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
After reading these posts that you guys, oops, I mean you people, have convinced me that the original stanadyne fuel filter base will not be coming part of my arsenal in the future. Best of luck on your mission to keep the original part available, but I'm keeping my screw on filter. It is cool having original parts and I do hope you succeed in your mission.
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
501
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
After reading these posts that you guys, oops, I mean you people, have convinced me that the original stanadyne fuel filter base will not be coming part of my arsenal in the future. Best of luck on your mission to keep the original part available, but I'm keeping my screw on filter. It is cool having original parts and I do hope you succeed in your mission.
The factory fuel filter base on my 85 M1008 started leaking and at the time I didn't know they could be rebuilt. So it was replaced with a duramax set up. The d'max set up works just fine, but the the truck doesn't start as fast vs the factory set up.

I did keep the factory set up. May have to dig it out and refurbish it..
 

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,836
987
113
Location
Paris KY
My OEM filter and base have never given me a problem, so until it/they do, I'll stick with the factory stuff.

So I'll certainly purchase a couple rebuild kits if available. Count me in.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
The only thing about the OEM filters is that there has recently been a Chinese knockoff introduced. You used to be able to go to any parts house and buy their house brand filter for $15 and under their sticker would be the Stanadyne nameplate. Now, most of the parts store filters re $25 and are no longer made by Stanadyne. Might have to swing by the John Deere dealer to get OEM filters.
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
501
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
The only thing about the OEM filters is that there has recently been a Chinese knockoff introduced. You used to be able to go to any parts house and buy their house brand filter for $15 and under their sticker would be the Stanadyne nameplate. Now, most of the parts store filters re $25 and are no longer made by Stanadyne. Might have to swing by the John Deere dealer to get OEM filters.
I can still the filters made by WIX
 

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
217
778
93
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Please don't say, an o-ring is an o-ring. The material is extremely important to consider to get longevity and low seepage. There are also multiple sizing conventions including SAE, ISO, JIS, DIN. McMaster-Carr has 13,304 different o-ring part numbers.
Fortunately, it’s probably not that complicated. Most low temp, low pressure applications are perfectly suitable for a buna oring. Sure, durometer rating, and other composite characteristics are wonderful but we’re not building a space ship here, it’s just low temp petroleum product. We could talk for days about performance competition blocks and hyper eutectic vs forged pistons, and the carbon content of a cast crankshaft, but at then end of the day it’s a CUCV, and the high pressure system is the oil, the high temperature systems are the oil and coolant. Standard orings are fine. I bought an entire oring kit from McMaster carr 15 years ago and the only oring I’ve had to purchase outside of that, in all my adventures, was the Dana 60 4x4 selector hub oring. Which, if you are wondering is a -239, and the guy at the local shop gave them to me for free!
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
I operate a fleet of engines that each engine operates nearly 3000 hours per year. Weak materials make themselves evident in very short time. Being specific about materials has greatly improved my fleet reliability. The best material is a combination of longevity, cost, and most importantly, availability. I get that buna is good enough for supply side o-rings in most cases but Viton is a sure way to get past the 5 year point.

This is especially important for rubbers exposed to water.

This is especially important for hoses.
 

CucVee-E

New member
18
5
3
Location
Pacheco, CA
Hello all,

I need to rebuild the original fuel filter base for a M1009.

I know this thread exists with all the part numbers:

Which in summary is this list:

Vac switch O-ring: 15593307 $4-10
Fuel heater O-ring: 15596600 $4-10
Air bleeder screw: 15535678 (includes new o-ring, its not sold seperatly) $7-8
Earlier style Vac O-ring: 15596608 $10
heater O-ring: part # 15349 nsn # 5331-01-138-2106

Eventually these part numbers aren't going to matter, and even now it is extremely hard to find them, and when you do they are clearly being gouged.
Has anyone with a NOS original part actually taken some digital calipers and measured these o-rings for diameter and thickness"?


An O-ring is an o ring, and paying $10 for a discontinued part# doesn't make much sense, when there is likely a .25 cent alternative with 10 of them in the bag.
I think in the long haul if we all want to keep these trucks running, putting out a sticky with measurements of parts for different systems that can be rebuilt is wise.

Maybe I missed it if it already exisits.
Does it?
There seem to be no 15535678 in California. I just changed the filter and the vent plug/ air bleeder screw
snapped in half. i wish it was $7-8. It's $24-45 now !
 

CucVee-E

New member
18
5
3
Location
Pacheco, CA
I operate a fleet of engines that each engine operates nearly 3000 hours per year. Weak materials make themselves evident in very short time. Being specific about materials has greatly improved my fleet reliability. The best material is a combination of longevity, cost, and most importantly, availability. I get that buna is good enough for supply side o-rings in most cases but Viton is a sure way to get past the 5 year point.

This is especially important for rubbers exposed to water.

This is especially important for hoses.
im just up hwy 4 from you. any lead on getting a 15535678 vent plug for my m1009?
 
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