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Original vs. aftermarket alternators?

dc9137

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Forgive me if this has been covered before, but I recall seeing an alternator for sale that implied it was an original military "issue" and was tougher than the aftermarket versions. I get the isolated ground issue, but if you don't consider cost, is there a reason to get an original alternator vs. an aftermarket?
 
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CycleJay

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Yes,

Original should mean better quality, and made in the USA..
Also less incompatibility issues then with the aftermarket parts.

Just my $0.02 cents...
 

dc9137

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Thanks CycleJay and FireFighterHill. I'm getting my first M1009 delivered Wed or Thurs and I know it doesn't have any alternators so I'm starting from scratch. I like the idea of getting some originals and rebuilding them myself, but wasn't sure how much it mattered.
 

dc9137

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Oh I'll need help, and plenty of it. :? This is the first project anything like this I've attempted. It's going to be interesting. I am not 100% concerned about keeping things totally original but I definitely like keeping it made in the USA!
 

Warthog

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Thanks CycleJay and FireFighterHill. I'm getting my first M1009 delivered Wed or Thurs and I know it doesn't have any alternators so I'm starting from scratch. I like the idea of getting some originals and rebuilding them myself, but wasn't sure how much it mattered.

I would buy some used originals and have them rebuilt. Hawkman or Hillbillywizard are two good places to get them.
 
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dc9137

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Nope...it's missing several things in the engine compartment. It's getting delivered this week and I'll find out everything that's missing, but I know it's missing the alternators and radiator from the pics. I'm sure I'll find more when it arrives. The body is in decent shape though and I got a good price at the auction. This is going to be fun!
 
For a replacement radiator id go with Napa
Part Number: NR 2098
And separate coolers for the oil and transmission fluid.
If you are replaceing the radiator.You might want to look in to doing the gaskets on the thermostat houseing going to the block and a new Hockey puck thermostat,New water pump while you are at it.Do it all now so you dont have to do it later.:]Its not hard just time consumeing.( i have had my truck completely takin apart so thats how i know lol)Flush the system also i think it takes about 7 gallons of antifreeze to fill the system back up.Tms are your friends.:]


Why separate coolers for the oil and trans fire fighter.The ones in the radiator work just fine.I bought that radiator from Napa $450 with tax.Been in almost 6 months and still kickin.
 
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Warthog

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Ii just got a pair of rewound 200A stator coils for the OEM alternators. LEHR auto electric in Sacramento. So now double the available 24v power for charging etc...

What is the price? Did you send your old ones in to have rewound?
 

Scarecrow1

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In this day and age it's a toss up . I have bought brand new not rebuilt and have them fail in the first year. buy rebuilt and the darn things run forever . New old factory or after market it doesn't seem to make much difference from my stand point so I go with the best I can afford at the time .
 

CycleJay

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Hi guys,

When I needed to replace both alternators in my M1009.
Zout highly recommended a rebuild shop in the Atlanta area,
so I went there and got two rebuilt mil-spec alternators.
And they have worked perfectly so far, and it has been quite a awhile now.

So I would go with having a reputable shop in your area rebuild your originals.
To mil-spec standards...

Good luck...
 
1,540
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Location
Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Why separate coolers for the oil and trans fire fighter.The ones in the radiator work just fine.I bought that radiator from Napa $450 with tax.Been in almost 6 months and still kickin.

Many have reported problems with getting the oil lines to mate with the newer radiators. Also others have shown a noticeable drop in transmission temps by having a separate fin cooler with electric fan. So if it were me, to avoid the issues, Id install separate coolers with their own fans. Plus I figure if I keep all the systems separate less to un-hook if I have a failure in one system and less chance of fluids mixing.
 
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