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Outer Windshield Frame Repair M35, M800, M900 Series and older 5 Tons

Crazyguyla

Active member
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Altus, OK
I pulled a rusty frame off a rusty truck while picking up some other parts. The frame rusted along the top. behind the rail that holds the soft top bead. I have removed that bead holder to expose the rusted metal undernethe. Should I remove what solid metal still remains and weld in a new strip, or patch around the solid metal. I will be adding a hadrtop once the frame is repaired. Excuew the messy work bench.

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Mullaney

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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I pulled a rusty frame off a rusty truck while picking up some other parts. The frame rusted along the top. behind the rail that holds the soft top bead. I have removed that bead holder to expose the rusted metal undernethe. Should I remove what solid metal still remains and weld in a new strip, or patch around the solid metal. I will be adding a hadrtop once the frame is repaired. Excuew the messy work bench.

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Not sure what kind of shape the "slides" are above the window are in, but there is a member here that has glass frames. I think he also has the rubber molding to seal the frame to the cab. Guessing that you could weld a window that would open, but you could weld a sheet-metal frame in place of those two frames and install a full width sheet of safety glass.

Depends on your goals. Do you want it to look as much like the factory, or a cab that has been updated...
 
Last edited:

Crazyguyla

Active member
817
124
43
Location
Altus, OK
.
Mot sure what kind of shape the "slides" are above the window are in, but there is a member here that has glass frames. I think he also has the rubber molding to seal the frame to the cab. Guessing that you could weld a window that would open, but you could weld a sheet-metal frame in place of those two frames and install a full width sheet of safety glass.

Depends on your goals. Do you want it to look as much like the factory, or a cab that has been updated...
I have new frames. The old frames are ok, but the bolts holding the windows in actually came out easy. Now I jinxed myself. Just the front is rusted, everything else is solid.
 

Crazyguyla

Active member
817
124
43
Location
Altus, OK
Here's some new pictures and ideas. I pulled out this ling rusty flat stock that has two drilled out rivets and some snapped fasteners.20220214_185842.jpg

This, as it turns out, is the original threaded plate for the window frames. It was held in by two rivets. It looks like when the M35A2 was upgraded to an A3, the powers that be drilled the rivets, punched the plate out the way and added new threaded fasteners ( I can't think of their proper name).
20220214_190455.jpg
Someone with the orginal threaded plate and broken fasteners can drill the two rivets and add the new threaded fasteners.

Here is the frame now with both window frames removed. I have to get the other plate out and clean years of grime out before welding can start. The frame looks a bent up in the picture, but its perfectly straight. I had shaky hands while doing a panorama shot. The old fastening plate can be seen inside the frame.


20220214_190259.jpg
 

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INFChief

Well-known member
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1,348
93
Location
New York
I pulled a rusty frame off a rusty truck while picking up some other parts. The frame rusted along the top. behind the rail that holds the soft top bead. I have removed that bead holder to expose the rusted metal undernethe. Should I remove what solid metal still remains and weld in a new strip, or patch around the solid metal. I will be adding a hadrtop once the frame is repaired. Excuew the messy work bench.

View attachment 858692 View attachment 858693
View attachment 858694 View attachment 858695
If you cannot find a donor piece to splice in then I would slowly cut back to solid material - if only to use as a fixed template to rebuild from. Otherwise I would most likely take lots of picture and measurements then cut it all out and fab in new.
 
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