Packard connectors or shrink-tube splices?

[maddawg308]

Am wondering how many out there use Packard waterproof connectors on their military electrical modifications, or just do an in-line splice with waterproof shrink-tubing. I haven't had good luck making Packard connections, just curious to hear why some folks do them, and some don't. I'm tempted to chuck my Packard connectors and go KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid).

 

[clinto]

Packards, too anal retentive to do it any other way.

 

[gringeltaube]

Cut wire, insert shrink tube, splice, (preferably) weld, a few layers self-fusing insul.tape (don't use any other!), place shrink tube, heat, ready! Not exactly KISS and yes it takes longer... but its safer and will last longer too!

G.

 

[nf6x]

I use the Packard connectors most of the time. Sometimes I'll make a repair with adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. I use silicone-rubber motor wire that appears to be very similar to the non-cloth-reinforced rubber wire in newer MVs.

 

[LanceRobson]

The simple answer is; it depends......

If I'm likely to have to disconnect the connection for, say, a trailer inter-vehicle cable, then it gets the GI connector. If I'm splicing mid-run or making up a harness or custom run, nothing is as secure or as watertight as a soldered Western Union pigtail splice jacketed with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. The adhesive is reasonably flexible and is permanently watertight.

With good soft copper wire and a little bench practice, you can make the splice in about two minutes with half that time being waiting for the soldering iron to warm up.

You can avoid the solder if you strip the wire much longer than you would normally do and tie a fisherman's "blood knot" (AKA a "surgeon's knot") and pull it tight before sliding the heat shrink down.

Either the knot or the solder will both keep the connection secure until you are in your grave. The only practical limitation to the life of the splice is the life span of the wire's insulating jacket.

Epay is the most best source I've found for adhesive lined heat shrink I've found. You only need a two inch piece to make up a splice.

Lance

 

[Recovry4x4]

Packards for me. Thanks Daniels Machine (AF

 

[hndrsonj]

Just got to have the right tools!

 

[nf6x]

Speaking of the right tools, I have a circular indent crimper which is "close enough", but not quite right. I need to pull off the ring around the female contacts in order to get them into the crimper, and then put the ring back on afterwards (which is a PITA). I'd like to get the right crimper. I want a production-grade one, not the cheesy little sheet metal one that comes in some of the connector repair kits.

Can any of y'all tell me how to find the correct crimper, die(s), turret(s), etc. to do the Packard connectors properly? I see lots of circular-indent crimpers and their accessories on eBay, but I don't know which, if any, are right for the Packard connectors.

Yeah, I know that I might have to wait a while before I find what I want at a price that I'm willing to pay, but right now I don't even know what to look for.

 

[Jones]

There have been several posts on the Daniels AF-8 crimping tool ( just make sure you're getting the one for automotive wire sized 'cause there's an identical version for computer and comm gear wiring that that's too small for our use)
And, somewhere amongst the strings, I posted a picture of the tool I made to help wrestle the tensioner springs on and off of the connector. It's the only way to go if you're using the waterproof connectors.
Maybe Kenny can help me remember where to search for it.

 

[nf6x]

I see lots of AF-8 crimpers on eBay, at widely varying prices. I was hoping that something like that one would be suitable. I gather that I would still need to select the right positioner turret for it, though.

I have to remove the tensioner springs with my current crimper because the jaws don't open quite far enough to clear the spring, and I've been too lazy to grind in more clearance so far. If the AF-8 would also have the same problem, then I might as well stick with the one that I have.

I'll search around for posts on the AF-8...

Edited to add:

I found your post on the spring tool here:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=10378

I guess there's no reason for me to replace my current tool with an AF-8, since I'd still need to mess around with the springs. Hopefully I can modify my crimper to pass over the springs without messing it up.

 

[rosco]

The original connectors are OK, but use the heat shrink out in the middle of a wire, if it needs splicing.

Lee in Alaska

 

[Recovry4x4]

I need to brew up a similar tool to what Leonard has. The spring sleeves are a PITA. I feel the end product is worth the effort though. I also bought a bunch of wire tabs to stamp the circuit number in. Makes it look real professional.

 

[nf6x]

I just did a bit of research to try to find "correct" crimping tools for the Packard connectors, as opposed to tools that are just close enough, like my circular-indent tool that can't fit over the tensioning springs on the female contacts.

First of all, I dug up the military standard drawings for the connector family, including the 2-pin connectors that are used on things like the deuce's fuel tank and the air-shift indicator light:

• 
  http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MS27142/ms27142.pdf
  http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MS27143/ms27143.pdf
  http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MS27144/ms27144.pdf
  http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MS27145/ms27145.pdf
  http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MS27146/ms27146.pdf
  http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MS27147/ms27147.pdf

I did not find any references to "correct" circular-indent crimpers for these connectors, but I did find that Daniels makes a die set called Y627 for their open-frame HX4 crimper, that is designed for our Packard connectors. Judging by the drawings, it appears to make the same sort of straight crimps that I've seen in my original military wiring harnesses.

• 
  https://www.dmctools.com/assets/HX4_ds.pdf
  https://www.dmctools.com/assets/HX4_env.pdf
  https://www.dmctools.com/assets/Y627_env.pdf

I have seen the HX4 crimpers on eBay, but it might be a bit harder to find the Y627 dies used... and they cost $180 new!

There are also various pneumatic, electric, hydraulic, etc. crimping tools that accept these dies for use in larger scale production.

Even though I like those sexy high-tech circular crimps, I think I'll keep my eyes open for this straight crimper and the correct dies. In the mean time, I think that my circular crimper (and I would assume, the AF-8 crimper) make perfectly suitable crimps... they just take a bit more labor. I think I should also make a tool like Leonard's for the spring rings. I've kludged along with a pair of round-jawed needlenose pliers, but this is cumbersome to do, especially oustide a nice, clean shop environment. Even if I find a proper crimper that doesn't require spring ring removal, it's still necessary to remove/replace the srpings sometimes when fixing up old wiring.

 

[Jones]

The AF8 crimpers come with a selector wheel on the side. Just make sure the ones you're thinking of picking up have a wire size range of 26 to 12. I've never used the turrets in mine; I just visually adjust the depth of the connector to correctly place the crimps. The tool I made is just a 1/4" bolt with the end turned to a nose that slides into the connector and whose outside diameter is the same as the outside of the terminal sleeve. Insert the tool and slide the spring onto it. Crimp the terminal and reinsert the tool to slide the spring back off into position.
The open-jaw Daniels is nice but I can slide a lot of springs on and off for $180.00

 

[bottleworks]

I use Weather-Pak connectors on all added connectors. All splices need to be soldered and shrink-wrapped with marine grade shrink-wrap.

 

[nf6x]

The open-jaw Daniels is nice but I can slide a lot of springs on and off for $180.00

$180 was just for the proper dies... that doesn't include the crimper itself!

 

[AN/ARC186]

Raychem makes a splice system that consists of clear blue heatshrink, gel seals at each end and a solder ring in the middle.just strip the wire and use a heat gun, it's that simple and completely waterproof. We use them in on aircraft all the time.

 

[Goatwerks]

Snap On, Matco and Mac tools all offer a good quality packard connector pliers.
It uses 2 seperate pairs, one to crimp the wire, and a round one to crimp around the rubber terminal seals.
I love using them for electrical accessories and add ons. One voltage source can have multiple uses.
I use my 24v coffee pot and 2 interior lamps off the same tap.
Get the right tools and you will love these water proof connectors.

Cheers, Jim

 

[CARNAC]

Maddawg,

If I were you, I would dump your connectors, just let me know what day you are throwing them in the trash. Tell you what, as a really nice guy, I will help cart them off for you. LOL.

 

[Jones]

I still vote for the Packards. They just 'look right'.

If you don't have an AF-8 (or similar acting crimping tool) the connectors can be soldered on. I've even used the civilian bullet connectors after stripping off the colored sleeve they come with out of the package. The AF-8 "turret" isn't necessary; it just makes hitting the correct crimp location easier, especially if you're doing an entire re-wire job.
The trick is just not to deform them so that they won't slide into the waterproof sleeves.

From my personal experience; if I solder a wire joint then shrink wrap it, I'm certain THAT joint will be one I'll need to take apart-- often several times... AND in the not-too-distant future.