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PAD125A Fix-up Thread

CallMeColt

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Howdy all,

Starting another one of my fix-up threads! I shearched a bit & found no threads on one of these.

Got this surplus pump that was sitting in a military surplus scrapyard for who knows how long.
It doesn't have any plates with any numbers on it. Just a few things spray painted on it. NSN 4320-01-247-7127, 125 gallons per minuet, and the serial number.

Has a Yanmar L40D-E in it.

After searching the NSN, I found it's made by Mechanical Equipment Company Inc. & their part number is PAD125A.

Found a few auctioned off about a year ago & the pictures showed information on the pump that I saved (& uploaded).

Looks as if there were a small batch of these made in 1990. Military paid ~$3,500 for them. They were issued with a military fuel jug & a chest with a bunch of fittings to distribute the water.

One handle is bend & there's a little case damage. All the foam to reduce noise is turning to dust & all over the inside. Fluids were drained.

Everything seems complete though. Pull start seems seized up but in my experience with pumps similar to this, the impeller of the pump can corrode a bit if not flushed out & cause this.

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CallMeColt

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Removed all of the enclosure. Cleaned up all the old foam, leaves, spiders, nests, etc.

Inspected the fuel tank & crank case. Both are extremely clean considering how long this thing sat & how old it is.

Took a lot of work, but got the top fitting off the pump to look inside. As expected, there is a lot of crud & corrosion in there. There is a plate to unbolt & remove but it won't budge right now! Going to let everything soak overnight with PB Blaster.

Did put fuel & oil in it. No leaks at all.

I'm confident that once I clean the pump out, it will start!

20200213_171112.jpg
 

CallMeColt

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Was able to free up the pump without removing the cover completely after letting it sit overnight.

Soaked everything again & let it sit.

Removed the pull cord reel & unbolted the high pressure fuel line going to the injector. Used a drill & spun the engine with it while holding the decompression lever. Did it for 4 minuets to get fuel up to the injector & flush our anything in the line.

Put everything back together & it started first pull!

Used a hose to spray water into the pump. Impeller appears to be good. Let it run for a fair amount of time while cleaning it off.

After a few hours, some heat, & a lot of words, got the cover to the pump off & cleaned it out good.

Going to clean everything inside up as best as I can. Going to attempt to find some new o-rings for the pump cover. MECO 125 is on the pump housing.

I plan to put a small ball valve & nipple to a hole similar to the oil drain for the engine from the pump housing so it can be quickly drained & flushed going forward easily. Also thinking about replacing the metal feet with rubber ones to reduce vibration & low RPM running.

86615333_475310849831672_1707156900665098240_n.jpg 86612088_497603747618643_4890153418519216128_n.jpg 86597162_627351478078739_1016324411969503232_n.jpg 86667288_228776218159730_6217873314614870016_n.jpg
 

CallMeColt

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While looking for parts for the pump, I found that these were also used as a bulk fuel transfer pump. Interesting. No luck on finding o-ring gaskets though. I may just need to used RTV & seal it up that way. overlooked that is had POL in the name of it. Petroleums, Oils, & Lubricants.
 

CallMeColt

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Cut off the handles since the one side was bent. It started to crack when I attempted to bend back.

Added a ball valve to the pump housing drain hole.

Did my best to bend back the enclosure & put the side back on that covers the engine.

Added my favorite Diesel Fuel Only sticker.

Have an O-Ring building kit on the way so I can build the needed o-rings.
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CallMeColt

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I didn't think to do it until this evening, but I searched for the Technical Manuals. Found them.

TM-10-4320-309-14 is the manual for the operator.

TM-10-4320-309-24P is for the parts break down.

Figured I would share in case anyone finds this thread down the road. The files are attached to this post.
 

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CallMeColt

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Got my o-ring making kit in earlier this week.

Made the needed o-rings & put the pump back together.

Added camlock fittings for the suction & discharge.

Cut off the handles since the bent one just started cracking when I tried to bend it back.

Drilled a hole so when the pump drain is opened, it will go quickly out the hole & not build up in the enclosure.

Got it all finished up & tested it. Working all as it should!

I may add something to making priming a bit easier in the future. Plan to put a small tool bag with extra gaskets & an adjustable wrench.

Finally, a project that went fairly smoothly!
 
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NEIOWA

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Despite the low pressure rating, these produce a decent stream with a fire hose and an 1-1/2" nozzle. I (my FD) has 2x nonenclosed.

Don't run them out for fuel as PITA to reprime (compared to the new Hatz diesel pumps). Also have 3x 2kw genset versions as used on MKT. Nice little generators.
 

CallMeColt

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,026
1,475
113
Location
Wilson County, Texas
Despite the low pressure rating, these produce a decent stream with a fire hose and an 1-1/2" nozzle. I (my FD) has 2x nonenclosed.

Don't run them out for fuel as PITA to reprime (compared to the new Hatz diesel pumps). Also have 3x 2kw genset versions as used on MKT. Nice little generators.
Do you use them on brush trucks or something? How to they handle being dead-headed?

Best way to prime if you end up needing to is removing the pull start reel & then using a 15/16 socket on a drill to turn the bolt that's seen while holding down the decompression lever. You can also loosen the injection line at the injector to confirm fuel comes out.
 
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