Painted my M1009...

[linx310]

Well I had some vacation time around new years so I used it to work on my M1009 some more.

I completely removed the front and rear bumpers, brush guard, antenna mounts, the grill, wipers, and the gas tank guard plate.

The bumpers were a pain in the ass! Rusted carriage bolts suck! Took me all day just to get the bumpers off, I had to end up cutting some of the bolts apart.
With this stuff off I was now ready to prep it for paint.

I sanded the entire truck down using a dual action sander with a mixture of 220 grit and 320 grit sanding pads.
I also used a marine body filler to fill in smooth out some imperfections on the rocker panels where I had welded new metal in. This stuff is great; unlike bondo it does not absorb water.

As I was sanding I noticed I forgot to remove the reflective stickers on the rear of the vehicle. Whatever you do, do not try to remove these things with a sander. I just creates a gooey mess! I discovered a hairdryer works much better.

 

[linx310]

Once I was finished sanding I power washed the entire vehicle and then washed it with a detergent to try and degrease any oil spots. I power washed it again and let it air dry over night.

The next morning I used painters tape and paper to tape everything up. I hate doing this, it takes a long time to make sure everything is sealed up properly.
I was then ready to paint. I did several light but complete coats of Gillespie 383 green. My HF paint gun worked great. After about 4 or 5 light coats I was finished. I let it dry over night.

The next morning I used a brown and light blue piece of chaulk to outline the camo pattern. I was going to use painters tape but got frustrated because I could not get it to bend the way I wanted. Plus the tape method makes the camo look to perfect and you have to go back and add overspray to blend it correctly.
I sprayed the Gillespie 383 brown first, I turned the adjustment knob all the way in on the HF paint gun so it has a round spray pattern and did the outlines first. I then set the knob so it would have a wider pattern and would put a light coat on each area making rounds around the truck. I did get some runs in a few spots though but it looks like a natural military paint job.

Once I had 5 or 6 light coats of brown down I started on the black. I only got about ¼ of the way done when my paint gun started to sputter paint all over the place. It was getting dark so I quit for the day. The weather was bad for a few more days so I did not have a chance to do any more until this last Thursday. I cleaned the paint gun and discovered the vent cap on the top of the paint cup was clogged. I was able to finish the black areas in about an hour.

I then cleaned the gun and loaded it with some more Gillespie 383 green and painted most of the stuff I had pulled off the other day (which like the truck I had cleaned and sanded). The parts look brand new!

 

[linx310]

I still have some more antenna mounts, shackles, the gas can mount, the pintel, and some other stuff I need to paint green but it was getting dark.
In the next week or two I am going to get pull the wheels off and while its on jack stands I am going to power wash the undercarriage and paint the axels and other parts with the Rustoleum hammered black. I am going to sand and wash the rims and paint them flat black. After I have them painted I am going to take them to the tire shop and have my new tires I purchased installed.

I am also going to reinstall all the stuff I pulled off and finish the camo paint job on the grill and bumpers, that way it lines up naturally.

Almost forgot to mention, I finished my Ammo can console. I used a compass to draw out the locations for the jumbo cup holders (they hold large and small drinks) and cut them out with a 3.5 inch bimetal hole saw. I then used my datco with a grinding tool to enlarge them a bit more so the cups would fit. I painted the lid to match the rest of the ammo can (I painted it in my last update). I then cut a 1*10 board and added some bedding and black canvas to make an arm rest. I used screws to secure it on the back side of the lid. The wire that I ran to my MP3 amplifier I used some cable sleeving and it looks awesome. I plan on using this stuff to channel all the visible wires in the cab.

 

[91W350]

Looks great, thanks for sharing!

 

[67_C-30]

Loos great!

 

[combat jump]

Nice! Looks like you had a good place to paint too. I painted mine yesterday, but had to rent a booth (suburb-dweller).

To get my stickers off the tailgate, I used a heat gun, and razer blade scraper.

 

[merace19]

Is it safe to sand that CARC paint. Its been a while and I remember something bad about that paint.

 

[combat jump]

Is it safe to sand that CARC paint. Its been a while and I remember something bad about that paint.

No. The dust is toxic, and causes cancer. You don't want to get any on your clothes, the ground, your skin, or breathe any.

 

[merace19]

Got any info on that? OP(sorry for the Hijack)

 

[boomer431]

Truck looks great. What did you use as a reducer and at what ratio?

 

[richingalveston]

your truck looks good, i hope you had your safety gear on.
i am repainting mine now and only sand/ grind if removing rust. had to do this in the interior floor and rocker panels

The best thing you can do with the CARC is encapsalte it. if you have to sand or grind do it with all the necessary personal
protective equipment, in a vented area. i use a vacume to control dust and then rinse in the grass where the dust can be
watered in. if you must sand the exterior you should wet sand lightly. this stuff is most dangerous when airborn.

if you want a gloss finish then you will need to prime the vehicle and wet sand at least two coats when you reach the green
paint stop sanding and put another primer coat on if needed.

if you are going with lusterless, you can paint directly over the CARC with Gilespie paint. best to do two light to medium coats.

it is going to take a couple of weeks on mine because i am painting inside also (forest green). still preping and removing stuff

one good tip for painting is Acetone. Put acetone in a hand spray bottle use throw away wrags and prior to priming or painting
wash the area lightly with acetone, it evaporates with no residue leaving the surface as clean as possible

rich

 

[richingalveston]

one other tip i forgot to add is rustoleum rust reformer. it works great on rust. I first brush with wire brush. rinse with
accetone. spray on rust reformer and wait 24 hrs. rinse and wipe excess off with accetone and rags. you should now have
a combination of shiny and black metal. The black is where the reformer turned the rust into a paintable surface. if still see
rust repeat rust reformer one more time and wash excess with acetone. after doing this you must prime the new metal with
auto primer prior to final coat.

 

[rhinob]

Well done. Nice job.

 

[Hogg]

Great job. Looks really good. Simoncrk and I have paint several M1009's now, including mine and his, and all we did was powerwash the truck really well with a high grade truck soap and paint right over the CARC... Much safer and faster...

 

[linx310]

Truck looks great. What did you use as a reducer and at what ratio?

xylene with a ratio of 4 to 1

your truck looks good, i hope you had your safety gear on.

Yea I had a respirator on with brand new filters, a paint suite, sealed eye protection, and chemical gloves.

 

[OL AG '89]

hey linx
Where in Texas?
Might want to drop off the M1009 at your place for a couple weeks let you do some *Magic* on it.... LOL
Needs paint in a bad way...

 

[nattieleather]

How about some finished pics with everything bolted back on... Truck looks good! I like the console.

 

[tuckered]

Nice post! Some, I have a military manual for the "proper" way to camo M, M and others. It is a a diagram, showing the side view and a top views of vehicles. If I can find it within the next week or two, I will see if I can scan it and post it here. It is an actual military manual for the camo patterns.

 

[mistaken1]

Nice post! Some, I have a military manual for the "proper" way to camo M, M and others. It is a a diagram, showing the side view and a top views of vehicles. If I can find it within the next week or two, I will see if I can scan it and post it here. It is an actual military manual for the camo patterns.

I believe that manual or a similar one is available in the resources download section.