rustystud
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Being almost a "Benny" each it will be awhile before I can change out all mine. I will eventually.
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Paramount water truck
- Thread starter Davidwyby
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I cranked it up three revolutions from 3 threads showing to 7 like my other pump, which was still safety wired, and it starts like boom after one or two cranks, sounds smoother and healthier at idle, and smokes like it should when I rev it. Didn't have time to drive it yet, but I think we may have a winner. Thing was STARVED for fuel.
Repaired the muffler and reinstalled it, took it for a drive. Much better, feels like my LDS before the boost kicks in. Can actually accelerate in 5th. Leaves a nice constant, fat, trail of smoke. Might back it off a bit. Sounded a bit different after a run down the street, think I need to adjust the valves, can hear them ticking.
rustystud
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They should only smoke when your getting on the fuel. Even part throttle it should not smoke.
Well, apparently she doesn't like makin' power. Valves started ticking, causing a little chug at idle, no biggie.
On dry start, the engine sounds kinda "clattery" 'til the oil pressure comes up (it comes up to 60 psi cold at idle I think) and then when it gets warmed up, and the pressure goes down, presumably because the oil thins, the clatter comes back. Maybe just valves...
Also started weeping water from the passenger rear head gasket tab. Phooey.
On dry start, the engine sounds kinda "clattery" 'til the oil pressure comes up (it comes up to 60 psi cold at idle I think) and then when it gets warmed up, and the pressure goes down, presumably because the oil thins, the clatter comes back. Maybe just valves...
Also started weeping water from the passenger rear head gasket tab. Phooey.
mobileauto2000
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What you describe as valves ticking and chug at idle is how I would describe mine running when the injectors are dripping. (need rebuilt).
If you don't have one you can build a pop tester out of a porta power pump and a presser gauge. I find that if I disassemble the tip and rinse it out with brake clean mine usually go back to normal. I run 100% waist oil so it might not work for you. Not saying that this is your problem, just something to check.
If you don't have one you can build a pop tester out of a porta power pump and a presser gauge. I find that if I disassemble the tip and rinse it out with brake clean mine usually go back to normal. I run 100% waist oil so it might not work for you. Not saying that this is your problem, just something to check.
I will test injectors eventually, but I can hear the pushrods clattering, which was what my '62 was doing, valves were very loose, and adjusting them made a huge improvement. Three of the exhaust valves were very loose.
Should I not run it until I get the HG situation fixed? Or is a little water weep to the outside not a big deal on these engines? It will only be puttering around the yard anyway. It ocurred to me that if I have compression leak, it could be causing the chug.
Should I not run it until I get the HG situation fixed? Or is a little water weep to the outside not a big deal on these engines? It will only be puttering around the yard anyway. It ocurred to me that if I have compression leak, it could be causing the chug.
Haven't been running it, but last time I did, oil pressure only came up to 20psi. Was like 60 I think. Time to have a look (when I get a chance). Thoughts/ideas? I've never changed any filters/oil, and not sure if I should or start taking things apart to see what the deal is.
gimpyrobb
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I'd swap out the sending unit for a mechanical gauge first off.
Haven't ran it all summer, needed to move it, started up, boom 60 psi oil, yes!
rustystud
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That's a good thing ! Haven't heard from you in awhile David. Hope that just means work is keeping you busy.
Been working on the big dodge, pulled out a stuck semi with it yesterday. Picked up an M1008 that I'll probably be selling along with some of my brother's partial 1008s. Got a bunch more work to do on the dodge and the burb and sell the burb, and the sand rail needs a lot of little stuff too. I almost got the brakes and wheel bearings done on the M35A1, gotta finish those and then airpack, master cylinder, and lines...
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As post 10: its a 5ton note 10 lug wheels. Also converted to straight air brakes from the looks of the brake pedal. The Army converted some 809 series trucks to wedge airbrakes ala a 923 but I guess the program was cancelled with the introduction of the 900 trucks built with wedge brakes.